Friday, April 12, 2019

Two Castles in Two Days! Part the First

Have I mentioned that it has been raining?  On our way we drove through the very small town but wildly pro - American town of Frusche Kruje.  Everywhere I met people who ask if they can not be the 51st state?  They are serious.  Bush did offer support of them becoming part of the Eu, but statehood, maybe no.

As I said previously Albania is a new country after being released from the Communist talons.  President Bush was the first president ever to visit.  Thousands hoped to catch a glimpse of him and two lucky families hit the jackpot! Albanians love two things greatly - ice cream and coffee!  President Bush had coffee on the balcony of a small shop and a also a treat from the bakery across the street.  When all the hubbub was over the locals' status was greatly increased and their businesses flourished!

So you now have in a tiny town, in a tiny country a large statue of George W., a coffee shop and bakery displaying his full name!  Almost like it was Mecca Albanians flock to these places to pay homage and if they are lucky they can also remember the day they 'met' the American President.
 Albanians love Amerekie!



We had to keep moving so I almost missed the picture of the George W. Bush Pasticeri and the George W. Bush Coffee Kafe proudly sitting atop the T Mobile store!



The drive out of town to Kruja at nine this morning wasn't too bad but upon arriving an hour away at the mountain town with which Skanderbeg is most associated, the rain began to be even heavier. Skanderbeg movie with English subtitles.  Born in 1405, most likely May 6 of that year, he was sent away from his noble family to be educated by the Ottoman Court.  Not actually his parents choice but the tradition imposed by Ottoman rule that the eldest son be raised in the Ottoman Court.  He stayed there until 20 years of age while rising in the military service with the arts of peace and of war.


His unusual skill and bravery earned him the title Iskander Bej meaning Lord Alexander.  The Turks thought him much like Alexander the Great.  However he defected taking some 300 horseman and beast with him.  Upon returning to Kruja he cleverly presented a letter from the master of the place saying he had been sent by the ruler to take over.  The forces present quietly walked away and the power became his own!  Defeating the Turks in 22 battles he controlled the pathway to Western Europe for 25 years.  The Pope expressed his own gratitude by giving him the title 'Athleta Christi' or Athelete of Christ.

I don't think this old movie will ever make it to TCM but here is the Albanian classic with English subtitles.  Holly wood is in talks to make a whole new version in the next year or two
Movie about the life of Skanderbeg.

This great 14 minute map movie of the battles of this Christian hero against the Ottomans makes the story so easy to understand and it is clear why he has a statue in every town and is the great national hero who is depicted in museums as larger than life!  The creators have made it so interesting that I may try the whole series when I get home! Skanderbeg Battle Map Story!

Here are a few pictures from the Ethnographic Museum on the site as well.  This was an old home of the Toptoni family.  During communist times five families shared what was meant to be for only one.  It is now restored to it's original room usual.



Had to take a quick look through the mahogany windows to catch of sun that was teasing us!

Hand carved ceiling detail.

Typical Gek costume for a man from the North.

The holes are for a young girl to look at the man who is asking for her to be his wife.  Although they may have seen each other around the village they will have never met until after the arranged marriage takes place.

A view into the men's sitting room where the girl is looking.  If food is to be served the oldest woman in the house brings it to the door where the youngest man takes it from her and serves it to the others.

Carved motifs that wwere made in this home for decoration or use and sold.

Typical costume of a young man from the South.  Kind of looks like one from Greece, doesn't it?

Typical wedding dress in the room for the ladies.  Notice also a sewing machine.

Explaining how to recognize where someone is from by looking at their hat.

Pottery making tools and a small ice box.  Farm animals slept in the fenced area and this helped with heating the family who slept above them.  
The oldest of the multi generational family slept on mats by the kitchen fire because it was the warmest place in the house.


We slogged to the Skanderbeg Museum. The place, like so much of what we are seeing, was made of marble. The pavilions within were well laid out in chronological order.  Nothing was crowded and there are many signs with the English translation displayed.  It was ideal to again have a guided tour.

The Skanderbeg Museum is stunningly built atop the castle remains.

Ocean view important to protect from invasion from Italy and others.


Detail of entrance sculpture.

Museum was built under communist regime so, of course, in every statue or painting the hero towers over everyone else.


Chairs symbolizing the three regions of Albania that joined together to become one state.

Map of the kingdoms is painted in reverse on glass.

The family name adorns the fireplace.

Armored hat and sword are on display.  There are three museums with the other ones.

Etched view!

Several spellings ae acceptable so I have chose to use the English one when writing.

So excited that the sun came out just before we moved to the restaurant for lunch.  I love the texture of these mountains by the sea.

Fun idea to have the name trimmed into the hedges so it can be viewed from above.

Elva is more than happy to pose with the sun beaming on her.



Lunch of typical foods some of which even I found delicious was served in this quaint museum restaurant. 

I love that the little town, the castle, the museums, and the restaurant are wedged between the sea and the rocky mountains.

After an hour ride back to the hotel Elva and I set our clothes aside to try and dry them some. In truth, once the sun had come out we started to dry out but socks and shoes definitely required special attention.  About 6:30 the sun peaked out so we we made our way to the in town castle which is home to restaurants, ice cream parlors, and art galleries.  We walked along the much quieter pedestrian way which was just a nice break. While we were deciding where to eat the rain began to drizzle so we made a mad dash to the food court.

I love the Lego table and stools.

#Truth - so treat yourselves ladies!

Elva had a burger and fries made in a what foreigners believe is American style and size.  I a couple slices of pizza and we took the rest back to the desk clerk.

What a wonderful day we had.  I felt it was well worth the $95 extra for this half day tour which lasted from 9 to 6!It included the transportation, our guide, two museums and a seven course lunch! I hope you agree.
















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