Rain, Rain Go Away!

Wednesday dawned with rain seeming to empty the heavens.  We went down to breakfast at 7 and I was so happy to have a few cups of lukewarm Albanian tea and a plateful of a variety of sweets.  And Albanians like their 'sweets' to be tooth cringingly sweet.  Rice strings soaked in sugar and water was the specialty this morning.  There was a variety of cheeses and sweets: pies, cakes, cookies, and baklava, and yes for breakfast!  The group is small, only seven of us, so during the meal on our own we introduced ourselves casually and began to feel comfortable right away.  We all have in common the desire to travel and learn.

After breakfast we joined together in another of the hotel restaurants and had a Welcome Drink and meeting.  In this case the drink was a choice of coffee, tea, soda, or juice.  Most of which we had just had upstairs.  Elva and I are joined by two doctors, each of whom is married to a nurse, a banker married to a nurse, and a pharmacist.  Since Elva worked at the CDC I am the misfit!  All of us are retired and, of course, Elva and I are the oldest.  We gauged this by both their looks and the fact that between them the oldest grandchild is five!

Llri has a great program mapped out for us but it does not exactly match what is on our calendar.  I think it is better and included more activities.  After a regrouping in the lobby we set out for a walking tour of the nearby square.  You saw in the previous post how close we are to the main square.  He told us about the buildings nearby and how the times were during Communism and now.  He gave us so much information that I can not possibly tell you all of it.  I do think if you do some reading about Tirana and Albania you will be surprised. You might start here and learn that this is one of the youngest countries in the world although it is also one of the oldest.  In 1990 Communism collapsed but in the first elections in March of 1992 a socialist government was elected - then rapidly deposed.  The people had not realized who the candidates were and they didn't want to return to oppression.  Learn more about this fascinating country!

Chauffing!

Liberation Unknown Soldier

University students studying history came to join us!

In the picture above is Rick, a banker, Elva, a student, Rita married to Rick.  Judy with the blues jacket is peeking from behind with her husband Tom. I am in the center with a water bottle and poncho stuffed in my jacket.  The lovely girl from the university up the street. Then there is Jim, the pharmacist, with the other student.

Our own guide has been sharing personal stories with us.  He was 20 when the regime failed so remembers not only that but has vivid memories of life as a child under communism.  For example his father who loved books and poetry had books in the bedroom.  He was fond especially of poetry.  Now in his old age he translates Longfellow, Yeats, and Shakespeare into Albanian but then those were hidden away and only 'approved' books were in the living room.  You never knew who might come in your house, even a friend, and report you.  Llri said they didn't talk politics much at home when he was a boy because the parents were afraid he might blurt something out and he or they could be taken away in the night.


We walked to the National Museum which is really not only beautiful but very well organized.  For two hours he pointed out the best of everything there so that a complete story was told.  Everyone truly enjoyed the experience.  The building interior has beautiful marble floors and it turns out that Albania is loaded with marble in all different colors.  Here we began to learn about the country's greatest hero - Skanderbeg.  He led the country in their liberation from the ottoman empire.  We are promised to learn more about him on another day.  We also look forward to visiting an iconostasis after seeing the beautiful examples saved here.

The mosaic facade made of tiny marble tiles depicts people from all parts of the country in different eras fighting for liberation!  But keep in mind that this museum was built under the communist regime.  Even in the displays and statues you can see the influence just like in this picture.

We then drove in the pouring rain to Dajti Mountain to take the cable car up to the scenic view!  The cable car took about 20 minutes to reach the top.  Elva and I were in the car with Llri so had a nice conversation and got way lots of extra info during it.  At the top we went into the empty restaurant where a fixed menu was served.  It included all traditional dishes.  The food is not spicy but there are a lot of cooked vegetables.We did have little tiny lamb chops and some other lamb.  A salad began the meal but in this part of the word no lettuces are harmed in the making of the salad.  Large chunks of fresh veggies and olives are included. a drink of yogurt mixed with water was sipped by every one and then left to form patterns on the glass!  The view did not improve except slightly for a few moments.  It would be a pretty place to visit and even to stay in the hotel in good summer weather.  Then you would appreciated the altitudinal cooling. On the way down Liri pointed out to us the location of an old army barracks and the top of a bunker built to save the higher ups from a nuclear
attack.  It is five stories under ground with 106 rooms! Balkoni Dajti

The view at its clearest moment!

Churning yogurt and milk into a slimy watery 'special drink we love' according to our guide!

We took a bus out to the Bektashi Order home of the Baba.  This peaceful group does not even disturb their neighbors with the five times a day 'call to prayer.'  The Teki at the World headquarters was a beautiful thing to see.  It is not used for worship though only meetings of the hierarchy or special events.  Prayers are held in the adjoining motels on campus.  The history was interesting but it seemed a little culty to me but in a nice way.  Not Scientology or Jim Jones style.  Quite interesting and not sure how long it will survive.  It is three years old and at least three of its domed windows were leaking! The exotic design of the dome is unique.  Every surface is marble except for the window glass and moldings, of course.

Marble yet again - inside and out and on every surface!

This was on the lower floor and obviously not marble furniture and walls but marble floors.  "This is a room for the men."

Walls under the dome.

Mosaic marble.

Tombs of the Babas.  There are nine, in sets of three.

We arrived back in town during rush hour.  It isn't a real rush because everyone is moving quite slowly. It was 6:15 by the time we were back in our rooms and the Welcome Dinner is at seven!.  Luckily it was a very short walk but still in the rain.  We went to a private home that had a small three table dining room.  Two tables were pulled together for our use.  The meal was vegetarian and everyone thoroughly enjoyed it, except me of course.  It sound exotic to have both stuffed peppers and stuffed eggplant on your plate at the same time together with rice balls but not for those of us who are 'meatatarians!'I realized at lunch that this trip will be a food challenge for me.  But the company was good and end the conversation flowed.  At one pint a retired hearing aid specialist from Copenhagen came over to talk with us.  He heard the Minnesota accents of Judy and Tom and wanted to say hello.  He used to travel to Minneapolis on business and missed talking with Americans!

Typical dress on display at the restaurant.  Gotta love the hair do!

We did not try the Gelato but Ruth Hunter would go crazy here.  There must be three or four excellent places on every block.  And despite the cold, the wind, and the rain people are sitting outside under dripping umbrellas eating it!

What a nice ending to a very busy first day of touring Albania!