A Long Transfer Day

After breakfast we boarded our tour bus at 8:30.  Miljenko will be our driver for the rest of the trip.  We will call him Micky We were just approaching the main area of the new city which is known as Gruz and which is at the port.  The language is easy to figure out in some ways if you sound it out.  I am not doing it justice as my travel computer does not give me Croatian as a language option for spelling.  Lana came over and asked me if I had her package from yesterday.  As she was getting off the bus to go to Civtat I offered to take the olive oil and goodies she had bought at the mill back to the hotel for her.  I told her that Tina had taken if from me and left it at the desk.  Tina heard us talking so while Micky circled the round about Tina called the front desk and yes they found it.  We went back for it which turned out good for us.  Lana had asked at the desk but been told it wasn't there.  Silly mix up caused by staff not being careful and checking things correctly. Lana didn't want to trouble everyone by going back but, as I said, it worked out well for us.

People on the other side of the bus also got a good look at the old warship which used to be part of a fleet of 200.

A fast capture as we drove by the first time.  People are boarding for a tour around the vast harbor.

 After retrieving the newly found package we set out by a different route which gave us great views of the city below.  And vies of the beautiful schooner sailing away under modern power.  Too bad they don't use the sails at least for display.

Yes, the narrow road winds along the hillsides of each separate part of the mountains rising from the Adriatic Sea.

 Our ride continued along the coast affording beautiful views which are difficult to capture with my phone, Galaxy 7 Edge,  which I am using as my only camera on this particular trip.

The wall around the city of Stone  was second in size as far as width but perhaps not length to the Great Wall of China.

Oyster farming, Croatia has the most, of course, and the most delicious.  The rule of the months with R are the same here.

 We drove across the narrow 15 mile wide of Bosnian coast line that has been bitten out of the coast of Croatia to give access to the sea.  It is not so  much for cargo and shipping as it is to create tourism spots so that Bosnia - Herzegovina the opportunity to enjoy the sea and to capture the income.  Hotels, and rental homes touch every inch of that short coast.

We had a rest break at a gas station cafe in Bosnia.  The little store had good prices and the goods were priced in Konvertible Marks or Euros.

And for comparison the Euro is way down and worth about $0.88 today!  So a double Snickers cost about $0.51!  Got to have a currency exchange app on your phone if you are traveling abroad!

I lovethe little churches.  The bell tower is not leaning but I was at an odd angle.

A new bridge is being built by the Chinese so that Croats won't have to go through Bosnia to travel in their own country.

 The issue of the international crossing is the three stops for passport control which for us today were no problem but can be very time consuming.  We were warned that going into Bosnia if you do not have written confirmation of the need for any drug there is a big issue.  The drugs will be confiscated and jail and fines can be involved.  Having medicines in the labeled containers is not enough for the border patrol as drug trafficking has become a big issue in this, the second poorest country in Europe.

Freshly planted vineyard that steeply reaches down to the sea.  The pickers must be held with ropes to prevent them falling.

Traveling through the beautiful California of Croatia we couldn't resist stopping for free samples.  The fruit is delicious and Lana bought us all tangerines to thank us for letting her go back for her stuff this  morning, although no thanks at all was necessary.  But when the samples include Tangerine Brandy who are we to decline the hospitality?

 We passed through many small villages as we climbed away from the beautiful blue waters and into the limestone mountains.  Naturally I asked too many questions but I am sure that everyone wanted to know these things.  For example here is a Muslim cemetery.  The graves each have a pillar at the head and the foot.  I never knew that, did you?

Our goal is to reach Mostar for a view of the bridge and to have lunch in this chaotic and fateful city.
We certainly achieved it but for an explanation of why please read here.  The Stari Most was a technology feat of engineering when it was competed in 1566 and gives the town its name.  It has required rebuilding most recently after the 1990 conflict. And why do we all know the name Mostar?
Original construction and history of the bridge itself.
Understanding the cultural value of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. 
 

As we walked from the bus lot to the restaurant the River Neretva gushed over rocks and outcroppings.

We engulfed the narrow cobbled streets.

Mostar hostess with the mostest.

Throngs bump elbows and Vicki wisely keeps her purse close.

Our restaurant as we edge our way over the cobbles, down medieval steps and to the water's edge.

 This young boy was delighted to speak with us and was very much at ease answering our questions.  He wants to be an auto mechanic and someday visit the States.  He wanted to know where we each were from.  Notice the kids in the back with the Hookah.  It is the original vaping.  He explained, and I am sorry that I have forgotten his name, that the two groups of boys were doing it here because they could.  His bunch had no nicotine in theirs where as the kids behind him did.  His Dad smoked but his Mom didn't.  They do not want him to start but he is on a field trip.  He admitted that he was in on it so he would look like a 'big guy.'  Personally he doesn't like it and is sort of a nerd.  He likes video games and the American show Friends.  He knows all about Bosnians in Queens, NY and told us a lot about it.  He wants to visit New York and Cleveland.  He heard it has a big lake that is very nice for swimming.  What a charmer.

We were standing on the Ottoman side of the bridge.  The bridge was the divider, not the river.

Guys in wet suits would jump from the bridge if you paid them.

Back to our restaurant.

I think he was hoping that we would feed him some meat or cheese from our charcuterie.

THe main course was served in these metal containers similar to a Moroccan Tajine.  It was served very hot!

A delicious stew of tender beef, peppers, eggplant and pumpkin.

Tina is explaining the Bosnian coffee is like Turkish coffee except instead of mixing sugar into the thick slurry you dip a sugar cube or piece of candy into the coffee.  Then you put it in your mouth and sip the coffee over it so that it melts.  You should take a long slow time to consume it all. The charming copper coffee service rested on a distinctive plate.

The stone roofs are applied without mortar of any kind but dry which is also how the original bridge was built.

This menorah is decoratively built all along the fence of the now no longer used synagogue. 

  We made our way back to the bus and set out again with the snow capped Dinaric Alps in our view.

I behaved very well, at least good for me.  While the after lunch nappers were resting I refrained from asking questions until we reached our afternoon rest stop. 

This restaurant along the river had a unique and efficient way of cooking. 
The water wheel is turning the spits upon which lamb is roasting.

 

Since we are in Muslim country there is no pork served.

Good by Neretva River and the countryside.

Soon we were coming into a more populated area.  The country is served by a railway even until this day.  The service is slow, irregular, and uncomfortable so it is not usually used by the locals.  Sarajevo is mostly remembered in America for the 1984 Olympics.  It was after this that the town which had been passed back and forth between invaders was destroyed by war.  The wounds are recent in the history of the world.

Views from the bus of this diverse city where three religions live in harmony even celebrating each other's holidays together.

Refreshed Communist architecture.

Newspaper tower conveniently behind the American Embassy.

And this sign greets us at our hotel.  The Hotel President frequently has Saudi guests who request this information so the place is allowed to advertise in the lobby.

The beds have a nice view of the bathroom which can be made private with curtains.

Yea an electric kettle but there is only one plug and it is at the farthest point of the desk and on the floor!  Welcome candies are a Muslim tradition (toffees) since they can not offer guests alcohol.

 

View from the bathroom.

Apparently the Saudi Guests also do fun things like baking in the room and showering outside of the shower.  Hence the price list and at least three signs reminding proper hotel etiquette and a price list of replacements.  Repairs can be charged up to 600 Euros.

We meet in the lobby before our orientation walk and are reminded of tomorrow's schedule.

View out the window.  Directly behind the mosque you  may be able to see the steeple of a Catholic church.  The brown building to the left is the Sarajevo Brewery.  And no, Muslims do not drink beer.

We almost immediately set out for a walk around the Stari Grad or Old Town.  It begins in the block right behind us.  First stop was a Currency Exchange as the banks are not convenient and the exchange rate is standardized.  We need Konvertible Marks for tomorrow to go to the National Museum if we wish and we do.

Tina talked with the owner of Nana's Kitchen where everyone but me will have dinner 'on their own' tomorrow night.  They will be served each five separate family style traditional Bosnian dinners.  I am sure it will be worth $16 USD to them.  Not my thing.

Tonight's traditional dinner was Cevapi. Haris explained how to eat it.

  A skinless meat sausage served in a puffy pita style pancake.  You were to tear off a piece of the bread and wrap the meat in it. 

Of course dessert was my favorite which was a cold baked apple stuff with chopped walnuts and topped with sweet cream.  Notice the empty Rakija flask and pile of napkins.  In trying to snap a picture of Haris toasting I spilled my cherry brandy!

Time to go back to the hotel and get some sleep!