Dubrovnik At Last!

Added note:  When I was writing to you last night I was pretty tired and a little rushed because we had so enjoyed our dinner and chatting which made it late before I began.  I believe that I neglected to be clear that we left Albania and went through a Passport Control that both exited us from there and entered us into Montenegro.  Later in the day we again went through customs to leave Montenegro which took about 45 minutes.  So many had gone to spend Saturday in the country at the beautiful beaches or were ending a spring vacation this day.  Only a couple of lanes were open as the station is small due to being in very mountainous territory.  We then drove about 3 miles and presented passports again.  There is this distance because the one lane each way road is narrow and cliff side.  There was no room for the station to be there.  We could have escaped into No Man's Land but then we would have missed what we really came for -Dubrovnik!

The fountain where we met our local guide.  A trip leader, Tina, may be a a local guide as well but does not function in that way when also leading a tour.  We know that with all the agencies we have traveled with in various countries.

We ate today, Sunday, at 7:30 a.m. in the dining room with the amazing buffet equally splendid at breakfast time.  I had a made to order omelette, a warm jam filled croissant, and lots of fresh fruit.  Earl Grey tea and just a chance to take a deep breath and reinvigorate for the beginning of the new part of the tour.  We have not only a new leader, Tina, but have added eight additional travelers to our group which had become quite close knit in just the few days of Albanian exploration.  I wish we had name tags because it is a lot of people to assimilate into my brain in a short time.

We met altogether for our Welcome Drink, (tea, coffee, juice, water), in a private room,  They used to have the welcome meeting in the evening when what might be a special drink was served.  OAT seems to be switching to first morning meetings so travelers can go to their room when they arrive and rest or settle in.  Tina had everyone introduce themselves before asking why we had chosen this tour and to do it with OAT particularly.  Of course, everyone had complementary things to say about the company and also the excitement of seeing the Balkans up close and personal.

After some discussion and questions she laid out the ground rules.  Pretty standard: respect the group, be on time, things like that.  The last cracked me up - Do not talk US politics!  I guess that can get pretty heated! 

Tina then took the newcomers on the orientation walk so we had an extra fifteen minutes before having to meet the bus to go to town.  We were taking local public transport so has been given our bus passes which are good for 3 round trips.  The hotel is part of an extensive complex so we are between the last and next to last stops on line #6.  Just depends on if we want to go down the hill to the first stop or up the hill to the second.  At least that way on the return we can't totally miss the stop and become lost!

Tina did have the part of the group with her get on at the first stop.  When she came to our stop I had had us all be right at the front of the gathered crowd so we could edge onto the bus for sure.  She was standing in the window with her sign so we knew for sure which one she was on.  It went smoothly and she inserted the cards so we knew how the nest time.  Already the bus was so full but someone gave Elva a seat and after a stop or two I had one too.  It is a short ride and you couldn't fall down if you tried - no space to land. 

Maryietta showing us the design of the old city.

Our guide was very knowledgeable and friendly.  I would have liked to have 'whisperers' or headsets as the streets were crowded and to keep close to hear became difficult.  Also it is Palm Sunday!  Extra crowds were in town to attend the services in the several churches.  Everyone was well dressed and as they left the many churches within the walls they were carrying their Palm leaves that had been woven into intricate patterns.  So today the tourists are even easier to spot than usual.

Hard to distinguish at first glance but this is a side street, I think the Jesuit Stairs.  And yes, those are a lot of stairs.  On the picture here it looks like they climb all the way up to where you see light. Every side street is like this.  Stairs, somewhat uneven and mostly without hand rails.

Note the square stone in the Stradun, or main street.  It is the very center of all the road work and is the only square.  Everything balances off of it.

Here it is easier to see the steps.  A few air units are visible, mostly they must be hidden since the entire walled Stari Grad, Old City, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Places get lots of money and supporting experts to maintain and refurbish to original as much as possible.  The trade off is that it must indeed be as close to original as possible.

Church of St. Blaise.  He is the Patron Saint of Dubrovnik because he appeared in a dream in 971 and warned the people that the Venetians were coming.  The mayor believed the person who had the dream and the city was successfully defended from sacking.  He is always shown with the city of Dubrovnik held in his left hand. He was actually also depicted on the the state seal of Dubrovnik as an old man with a beard and wearing a mitre until the  time of Napoleon.

What appears to be a clock is actually a phases of the moon calendar and in that sense is a clock.  The digital clock changes every five minutes.  In the rectangular space are two bronze patina roman soldiers of actual human size.  They strike the bells several times on the hour.  They pause and strike again in case you didn't hear them the first time.

The Rector's Palace gave us a chance to learn about the old governmental system. He lives there without his family for his term.  A Rector is elected and serves for one month only and can be re-elected after five years.  The upper and lower council enter their chambers through the Rector's Palace through an archway over which is inscribed words saying you must act for the people and leave yourself behind.

Rector's entrance way.

After passing through the passage way between the clock tower and the Rector's Palace we came to the harbor.  This one for fishing and small boats.

Lunch time.  We ate upstairs in a private room at LAJK

Owner and chef Alan greeted us with a lovely story on the restaurant name and his passion for his cuisine.

I was admiring right away the beautiful and delicate mural that covers one wall.  On the other wall was a small painting.  These were done by Luka when he was only 12.

This young man was serving our meal.  When I asked his name, not an unusual question from me, he said Luka.  I asked if he was the artist and he was.  What an exemplar son he must be.  He is now 16 and works in the family business on holiday and weekends.  He painted these walls with tempera which is what he prefers.  He loves to swim and hopes to continue to complete as he finishes high school and goes to university.  He began to paint at about three and had no lessons until he was about 10.  Unbelievable so watch for this budding, no, true artist!  I am glad I have his autograph on a fresh place mat!

The Big Fountain.  Yes, that is the name. It is by Onofrio.

We made it up to walk the wall that surrounds the old city.  Our three day pass allowed us to Walk the Ramparts and we made it!

KKayakers approach the rock that holds St Lawrence Fort.  The sea side walls are 12 metres thick to prevent successful attack by sea.  On the city side they are only 60 cm thick.  This was so that if there was a rebellion the fort could be retaken.  More about the St. Lawrence Fortress.

Ongoing renovation and rebuilding.

The fort from a niche in the wall.

I have to think that these poppies in orange support the Tennessee Vols!

Totally lived in all these old buildings.  If you rent one of these very expensive apartments you can be expected to be kicked out for the season so that the higher rents that can be demanded from tourists!

A painted futbol , soccer, field slash basketball court!

The lavender color caught my eye as so much laundry is either black or white.  Maybe uniforms for the restaurant staffs.

I love the seashell look of this roof.

Ceiling of the Rector's Palace.

Remember the bells of the clock tower? Original strikers are in the museum.

Handrail details.  Love it.  So clever.

After leaving the museum I still wanted to see the Franciscan Monastery.    Elva wanted to sit awhile and people watch so as we made our way we bumped into Maryietta who was all dressed up.  Her friend was filming her for an audition video to be the American Airlines spokesperson for Dubrovnik and Croatia.  How nice will that be for her and for those who see her.  So of course we took a picture with this soon to be famous person.  Vickie from Kentucky was talking with her so as they left to continue taping we three made our way to the fountain.  They wanted gelatto so they waited for me while I went to the St Francis Church thinking it was the museum.  The church was filled with believers reciting the Stations of the the Cross.  It was very moving but I could only stay a few minutes as they were waiting for me. 

I went and let my friend know I still needed to see the museum and so ducked out and then moved to the displays in the actual old monastery.   Too bad they didn't go in with me as they would have loved to relax in the shade of towering palms in this quiet courtyard.  The scent of roses was sweet.

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Around the garden there are frescoes of Franciscan teachings.

Dubrovnik before the earthquake.

"So cat, what do you think about all this?"  Vicki, Elva, and I watched fascinated while we were eating our gelatto cones.  This cat perched regally on the column at the entrance to the drawbridge while every visitor took pictures of it. Children petted it and made faces at the poor cat.  He seemed to bask not only in the sunlight but in the attention.

Time for us to say goodbye for now and find the bus home.

We waited only a very short time to board No. ^.  We were second in line and I made sure the crowds didn't push us back.  Vicki and Elva were leaning on a post in lieu of a bench and as the bus arrived I called to them then reached back to take Elva by the hand and she had Vicki.  The lovely German couple I had been chatting with were first.  They sort of blocked the door so that we could board.  I am not shy but if you don't make some possibly rude but perfectly correct insistences you will be out of luck.  This way we got seats and the bus left the stop with the driver saying no more, no more. Yet at the back door more pushed on.  They were local and must have know that the doors closed in such a way as to scoop them in instead of pushing them out.

As we got closer to our I stood up and worked my way to the front door.  I did not want to miss our first chance to exit at the Valamar Lacroma and avoid the steps up from the final stop.  We made it!  Back in our separate rooms Elva and I ate our sandwiches we made at breakfast and I tried to write for at least awhile.  A hot bath and avoiding the 'rabbit hole' of the internet let me get to sleep early.

Thanks for reading.  Please share this link and invite friends to follow me as I move through the Balkan States and up the Dalmation Coast! Intentional Traveler