Montevideo

As we start up the Rio de la Plata towards Buenos Aires we stop for the day in Montevideo.  This capital city is a vibrant, modern mecca, especially for those trying to improve their lives from what they are in other South American countries.  The population is less than 2 million but is half of the population of the whole country.  There is almost 14 miles of shore line with beaches and parks along the river.  It isn’t ideal for swimming but every other resort type activity for families and singles thrives here.  

The current issue that is foremost in the economy is that there are not many families.  Young marrieds prefer to get a dog and travel to having kids.  The government is seeking to bring in immigrants from Venezuela.  They will be given financial and residency incentives.  The hope is that the Venezuelans will bring more children into the country and will have growing families.   With the current political climate in Venezuela it seems that this will be appealing to them while solving the diminishing population problem of Uruguay.

An interesting political idea here is that a president is elected for one five year term.  Then, like in Russia, they cannot be re-elected until they have sat out someone else’s five year term.  Perhaps unlike in Russia, one president isn’t the puppet of the other just acting as a place holder.  It is surely a great honor and responsibility to be President of the Oriental Republic of Uruguay!   

As we drove from the dock we passed the monumental anchor of the Graf Spee.  Although I knew the name, already Uruguay was surprising!  I did not recall anything about this battle.

Our first stop was just near the port in the central square.  As we walked around I thought it was so funny that so many couples were in deep embraces.  Some even lying on the metal benches arms around each other and lips locked.  Not what one usually sees at 8:30 in the morning in the Plaza Independencia, the busiest square in the city!  The Artigas Mausoleum anchors the space with a memorial to Jose Artigas who is considered to be the Father of Uruguay.

Linda and Fred couldn't help but follow suit like the rest of the morning visitors!

The nearby buildings were elegant and of historical significance.  Most interesting and really fascinating to me was the https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palacio_Salvo . The architecture was beautifully different and the history is a classic story of success and failure.  

Palacio Salvo

Our guide, Martia (Martha), was cheerful and excited for the surprises we had in store.  As we drove along the river front to the first stop she kept up a lively chatter of all the above information and so much more.  I cannot even remember it all!

We did not stop this time at the unusual https://travel.sygic.com/en/poi/holocaust-memorial-montevideo-poi:29901 .  Last time we walked all around within it.   As everywhere this travesty of justice is recalled as a reminder to never again follow blindly along ignoring the fate of others.

Our long stop was at the Panoramic of "La Carreta." This sculpture by José Belloni was first installed in 1934.  Over the years the pink granite and bronze monument has become the central focus of a pleasant park.  It is also an absolute must see for every tour bus in town.  The local handicrafts artists and sellers of souvenirs also make it a must stop.  The sidewalk is crowded with booths but the quiet determination on the faces of the bronze statues and the intense struggle of the cattle carries you away from the chaos for a few moments of peace.

From here we set out for our surprise.  This tour was organized by Enrichment Journeys in addition to our week before the cruise.  We will also have a tour and transfer to the airport tomorrow in Buenos Aires.  These are a nice bonus.  Ship tours are about $100 and the transfer tomorrow with a brief tour gets you to the airport by one in the afternoon for $149.  So thanks, EJ.  But I digress …. back to the story of today in Uruguay.

Our drive took us through the town and out into the countryside.  We did indeed have quite a treat in store for us.  We were having a Tannat Wine Experience in Canelones.  Tannat is a grape that has become unique to Uruguay and is the ‘national grape.’  We were greeted by the owner who passed out a light white wine and some delicious canapes.  He did not speak English but his smile was very welcoming. 

 You can always count on Fred, Linda, and Anna to toast a good time!

A pretty young lady by the name of Elizabeth led us through the old vintage vintner machines in the yard to the vineyard itself.  She explained the process but then did something unusual for a wine tour.  Elizabeth encouraged us to walk among the vines and pick a few grapes to taste.  They were small but ripe and delicious.  The vines were well kept and the property very neat. All of the grapes are handpicked on this and the other properties this family owns.   It has been developed over the span of about four generations.

Inside the big brick barn we saw how the various equipment was operated, both the old and the new. The surprise was the lady watching from a platform above us.  Her costume made us realize she was to be part of the show we were to see.  Suddenly she began singing with great expression in her rich alto voice.  

We were led down a narrow flight of wooden steps to a large room set with country style tables with checkered cloths and fresh flower or leaf arrangements on them.  I loved that our greens were in an old teapot.  So perfect.  We were served several courses of various treats for lunch.  I accidentally got a gluten free plate of cheese and sausage.  I thought that since two plates of one kind were put down and two of the other they were to share.  Linda told me it was Kathy’s plate as she is also gluten free like Fred.  I didn’t think I could take it to her since I had started to eat from it.  I thought they would bring her anther.  Turned out they didn’t have the makings for one more so Kathy was given fruit.  Definitely a small family operation.  Knowing this makes it even more especially delightful.

The singer was singer while we ate and two dancing couples demonstrated the Milonga.  This is a dance similar to the Argentine tango but not as angry seeming.  The exaggerated kicks and stomps are replace by a softer movement for the most part.  These dancers involved us in a story of two couples enjoying a night out.  One girl flirted with the other man and then the mood changed.  The two men became competitive demonstrating a sort of dance off.  As the entertainment went along sometimes the singer, who acted as a sort of silent MC, would sing between dances or as the musical accompaniment. We laughed at one point when the men danced with each other.  The ladies then dance together before they broke apart and asked our men to dance with them.  The guys ate it up!  Then the dancing men took our ladies to the floor and everyone was having a wonderful time.  It was a great excursion.  I was so happy that this was way better than the so-called ‘gaucho experience’ we had suffered through at the beginning of the trip. 

 

 Sandi couldn't stop laughing!

 Had a couple of glasses of wine, Linda and Fred?

 Anna loved it!

We were all happily filled with excitement for Uruguay as we returned to the ship in time for the 3:30 ‘all aboard.’  I heard many comment that with the Miami Beach like river front and good food and charming people that they would like to come back for a longer stay.

I believe our spirits were elevated even though this was to be our last night on board and the end of this adventure was at hand.  I finished putting all the odds and ends into my bag and leaving out only what to sleep in and what to wear tomorrow, and of course my toothbrush and hairbrush.  Unlike when you leave from your home, when you are leaving from your cruise you have to be sure things are sorted as needed.  Everything you don’t need to worry about until you arrive at your house goes in your checked bag.  Your carry on has your valuables usually but since I will be able to check two bags at no charge I didn’t have to think about that.  I will be able to put both rolling bags in the hallway for the stewards to take to the holding area for delivery to the terminal tomorrow.  Bags have to be out by ten.  My ‘personal bag’ had my passport, wallet, laptop, phone charger, and book.  Also I tucked in a toothbrush and my two doses of daily medication.  One for the morning and one for Monday morning since the overnight flight and then a domestic flight meant it would take two days to get home!  Also a pack of gum.  I can’t fly without that for takeoff and landing. 

Dinner was delicious and very special as we all felt a little sad that we were leaving.  During it, Don’s Linda came and told us to ask for an early bag tag so that we could meet out tour at nine in the morning.  She had a 7:55 time with a #10 tag.  I ran down to get ours for Anna, Linda, Fred, and me.  Gary and Sue Ann are leaving later as they are staying a few days in Buenos Aires.  The earliest number I could get was #12 for 8:15.  Good enough thought but then people I told went after us and got #10.  After dinner Linda called down and had new numbers sent up for us.  Back in the cabin we had been given #28 so I was glad to have been able to take action in advance.  

I added the #10 tags to our bags and put them out before going to the nine o’clock show.  It was my kind of music at last – a salute to Broadway.  The production cast did a good job as each sang a different kind of musical tune.  It was a wonderful ending to a wonderful day and a wonder filled trip!

 

 Let me end with this great overview from John Fleischman.  Uruguay at a glance.