Beginning My Winter Trip – Part Three!

We had a wonderful first week of our cruise/tour.  Actually I guess I should say tour/cruise!  Before I move on let me share a few views of our Buenos Aires home away from home...The Hotel PanAmericano on July the 9th avenue.  And views from the rooftop spa.

The Opera House across from our hotel

 

                                                                    Buenos Aires main street is the widest avenue in the world.

Linda and Fred enjoying the roof top pool.

Dinner on our return from Iguazu.  We wrapped it up early to get ready for our city tour and cruise check in.

We set out at 9:30 Sunday the 20^th for the ship.  Last night I made sure everything that had been disarranged over the last three weeks all fit back into my two suitcases.  I took medication and swimsuit and important papers with me just in case my cases might be left on the dock and not reach me until Thursday.  The trip will start with 3 sea days!  On the way to the airport we had a several hour tour of parts of the city we had not yet seen. Buenos Aires is a sprawling metropolis with distinctive parts.

Mercedes was our guide and will be meeting us again after the cruise.  Today we started at Recoleta Cemetery.  This is a fascinating place and I did not mind at all revisiting the site of the mausoleum of Eva Peron.  In every group there are those who don’t want to visit cemeteries.  This is an exception, or should be, for everyone.  You might say it is monumental.  All the tombs are above ground and in the area of the city that was once the richest.  Families wanted the memorials to reflect the wealthy status of the family name.  They are like small houses.  All have doors and many have windows, some are even beautiful stained glass.  They are made this way so that family can go inside and sit beside or stand near the exposed caskets of their loved ones.  There are shelves so that wives and husbands and even all the children can “live together in eternity.”  Carrara marble is common, metal fittings are brass or even silver.  Some of the statues are in the image of the deceased and there are, of course, many angels.  I did not see too alike.  Five Noble Prize winners are buried here as well as Presidents.  Peron himself is not.  He and Eva never were together again after her untimely death from cancer.  The second wife would not permit that.  She is buried in the family crypt so do not look for the name Peron above the door but rather Duarte.

The tombs have doors and space inside for the families to visit or care for the dearly departed.  

Several have stained glass windows.  Here I am peaking through a glass entry door 

and out the window!

 There is a group of 'old women' who care for and feed the cats of Recoleta Cemetery.  

Many people think the cats are the spirits of the deceased.

I call this 'Doorway to Heaven.'  

The story is of a young girl, about 14, who was buried alive!  

She was apparently catatonic and thought to be dead.  

After the burial, embalming was not common then, 

noises could be heard and faint cries.  

When the family went in to open the casket in response to visitors complaints, 

they found her eyes open and a look of fear.  

Her hands were bloody and the lid was all scratched with the fabric torn.

Maybe an Elevator to Heaven?

Eva Peron was the second wife of President Juan Peron.  Her memory is revered for the many social reform programs she persuaded her husband to institute and the fashionable flair she demonstrated.  Others reviled her for her place in a dictatorial military regime.

 Evita was finally laid to rest in her family tomb.  

She and Peron have never been together in the afterlife. 

Are they afraid peole will break in ... or break out?

 This angel seems to be saying 'You stay down there.'  Or maybe indicating heaven is ot for them.

Space is not available any longer unless you buy an old mausoleum and have it refurbished like this man is doing.

 Simple and a little like might have been seen in Jerusalem at the time of Christ.

This started as the church burial land next to Our Lady of Pilar Catholic Church.  I asked if we had time to visit it.  If there was not a Mass we could take pictures and we were lucky, it had just ended.  The first side altar I noticed upon entry was one with a seated Jesus.  At first glance he appeared to be a Gaucho Jesus.  I know that we make images of God, angels, and saints to reflect ourselves so I thought, oh how unique is this.  Upon closer examination I could see that Jesus is simply sad and shown with his Crown of Thorns.

 'Gaucho Jesus!'

A seated Jesus is so very unusual.  He looks quite like  What have I done?  I hope it was worth it."

As we passed through many ordinary neighborhoods we made our way back past our hotel.  Here I digress.  Fair warning, I digress often but this is specific.  Before leaving this morning I needed to ask to speak to the manager.  The young man at the desk insisted on helping me and explained she was there but did not speak and understand English well.  I replied that he was welcome to translate but that she needed to be there as it was very important.  A lovely young lady came in response to his call.  I spoke directly to her then glanced at him if he needed to repeat.  I let her know that I was very upset, and by then my stomach was in a knot, that I was really becoming angry.  The United States flag was flying above the front entrance along with several other countries. The American Flag was displayed upside down!  I said it was an insult, a show of disrespect and there were many American citizens staying there, many of whom were U.S. Veterans.  It was insulting to them like a slap in the face.  And importantly it is a sign of distress.  I asked if we were suddenly at war with Argentina.  Do we need to contact the Consulate to be rescued?  Yes, I laid it on thick.  I used the words, insult and anger several times.  She was very apologetic and in perfect English thanked me for letting them know.  She had the young man contact the maintenance crew to fix it and it was fixed within 10 minutes.  The young man said, after she left, that they were of a different culture and had many countries represented.  I said I appreciated that but that the proper flying of a national flag was not a cultural thing and that it is easy to know which way is right side up.  When I went to get a cup of tea to go to start the bus ride the manager was seated nearby.  She apologized again and said it was corrected.  I thanked her again.  I did wonder why I was the only one who noticed or was I the only one who spoke up.  So, when we drove past the hotel again I was proud to see the Red, White, and Blue billowing in the Sunday morning breeze.

We went this way to go to the world famous Café Tortoni.  Ii had never heard of it before I saw it in my guide book.  Apparently they have been in business continually since 1858.  Everyone who is anyone has stopped here to enjoy a meal, artists and writers congregated here, Tango lives here and the National Academy of Tango is housed here.  It is named after a famous drinking den in Paris and follows in those footsteps.  Since Buenos Aries has a very prominent Italian population the food is delicious.  We were treated to their popular, fluffy, croissants and coffee.  There is a small library room where meetings are held including the International Rotary Club.  The long line out front waiting for Sunday brunch was not happy to see us pull up and march right through the opened door.  Tours are definitely convenient for some things!  As we were driving away I could see much of that line gratefully disappear through the heavy Mahogany doors.

I am sure this line was happy when 37 of us walked out.  As we pulled away a few were already being allowed in.

Our last stop was in the Retiro District.  This residential district is the second most expensive part of the city.  The first was the old Porto Madero that we visited the other day, near La Boca.  Here in Retiro, which, is not far from the new port, are beautiful classic high rise apartment buildings, probably all condos by now.  A broad park runs the length of the area and separates one main street from the main street that runs alongside the park next to the River Planta.  That is to say it is a few miles of river, park, street, park, and street, and rich people’s apartments with parks interspersed between them every two or three blocks.  Lots of parks, lots of green, lots of fountains, lots of people on bicycles or walking dogs, and lots of monuments.  One is marking the place where the Presidential home was for Peron and Evita.  It is of her, of course.  The home itself was lost in a fire.  They never lived in Casa Rosada, The Pink House which was designed to somewhat mimic our own White House.  Casa Rosada is the business offices of the government.

Memorial marking the Peron home.

We stopped next to the Law Faculty at a play park by the airport.  We could see domestic flights landing while we admired the sculpture called Floralis Generica Homenaje.  This 23 meter high, 18 ton rose is made of discarded airplane metal.  Dedicated in 2002, it was the first of the technological sculpture movement that is becoming popular in Argentina.  A solar response system allows the petals to open with the sunrise.  Each petal weighs 3.500 kg and moves until the rose shape is complete.  The stamen solar panel energize it until sunset when it begins to close.  This was wonderful to see and totally a new idea for me.

The Law Faculty.  Each department has its own building and they are not on a unified campus.  Students have to have their own apartments for University od Buenos Aires studies.  The Spa bartender at the hotel lives near the Tourism building.  His parents bought him an apartment in the city and it is also close to the hotel where he is working while studying.  College is free but the extra costs can add up.  And education is free for everyone, not just for Argentines.

 This solar powered flower is made from old airliner skin.

This new symbol of Buenos Aires opens its petals in the morning and closes as the sun sets. 

It is the first sculpture of its kind although the style is becoming popular.

 

We took a nice group picture and our Enrichment Journeys Tour, Part the First, was at an end. I hope many of us will stay in touch and become friends over time.  

We were delivered to the port where we never had to touch our luggage but simply received a numbered card to wait our turn to board the ship.  They were calling 31 and reached our number, 40, within about 15 minutes.  The place was mobbed but we had been brought right on schedule at 1:00. 

When our number was called, we got in the fast moving line and showed our boarding pass and passport.  Our hand luggage was scanned, I wasn’t even patted down, and up the escalator we went.  We were directed to another check in line just for us and quickly we were documented and handed our SeaPass cards.  On board they took the identifying photo and the party started when we were greeted with a glass of sparkling wine.  Our cabin, 1077, is right around the corner from the Forward Elevators so easy to find.

La Plata River

Then we wandered around and found a light lunch.  My bags were at the room when we returned and I completely unpacked!  So happy to not be fishing through things looking for whatever.  Our Muster Station was the upper level of the Eclipse Theater.  The little safety movie was kind of silly but entertaining I guess.  It was down like a 007 type thing.  The live demonstration included what was in and how to use the Personal Polar Protection Kit we would be issued if needed.  Gloves, balaclava, warm socks, and thermal blanket.  It all will coordinate nicely with our bulky, squared life vests with built in whistle and water activated light!

Anna’s baggage still had not arrived by the time the ship sailed.  Not completely unusual but we are in Concierge Class due to a complimentary upgrade and have priority in some ways.  Then the wrong bag was brought.  We found our Steward and gave him that and he went to look for Anna’s large black case with a yellow zipper stripe.  He returned just as we were going to dinner.  I went to meet up with Linda and Fred for dinner in the Select Dining level of the Moonlight Sonata Restaurant where we can choose different times depending on what we are doing that day.  Anna soon joined in in a very pretty yellow long sleeved shirt that she was delighted to change into after we pretty much wore the same things every day for the last few.  It was just convenient not to unpack for one night and not to have taken too much with us to Iguazu.

Sue Ann from San Angelo, TX and her husband Gary joined us for dinner.  After that first night we were soon great friends.

The entertainment was wonderful.  The group was called Impact and I am sure you could find them online.  They played, they sang, they danced, they cracked whips and cracked jokes.  Really a good opener instead of a very lame but typical preview of the week to come.  Alejandro is our cruise director and since the ship is based in Argentina and about half the passengers are Spanish speaking it makes perfect sense.  No Midwest America accent required here.  He is single and is teased to be called Alejandsome!  He likes it and plays it up big.  He demonstrates very self-deprecating humor.  I like that in a person.

Anna and I passed by the Karaoke in the Quasar Lounge and went in.  I said I would go if she would sing.  In her early like she was a music teacher.  We listened for a while and she did get up and dance but no singing – yet!

A cup of tea from the buffet and good night!

In the Today paper I found a delightful surprise.  Mickey Live is on our ship.  We sailed with him on our 48 night L.A. to NYC trip.  Great speaker and fun. This is going to be a great trip!