Saturday, April 4

Today is our last day on the Viking Pride.  Ruth was up early after our late night to take the tour to Versailles.  I did not go since I had been there before with Katie, Karen, and Douglas.  My day started with a leisurely breakfast with Tony and Toni.  I then joined the walking tour of Conflans St. Honore.  There were not many of us and we broke into two groups.  Our guide was Claire.  It was unusual to have a poor guide but we did.  She struggled with her English which was, of course, better than my French.  But also she had never been in Conflans before!  She couldn’t answer questions and even had trouble finding the entry into the church.

After about twenty minutes standing in the chill damp air looking at photos of Versailles, where she usually guides, we walked further along the quay as she pointed out different barges.  We saw one that had been converted to a ShowBarge.  About 100 people can be seated inside and the roof is retractable so others can watch from shore.  Conflans is the base for many barges and barge companies.  Our Captain was born there because his family owned a barge and they lived on it.  We saw a boarding school for the barge children and later I asked captain Fontzy if it was where he had gone and he said no.  His family was by then on the Northern Rivers and his school was up in Doux.  

Across from the school was a church barge complete with cross and stained glass portholes.  There was no a service at the time so we could go inside.  The interior was surprising.  We entered at what would be street level where there several men seated in what seemed to be a reception area. Going down the stairs we entered a large area with tables and chairs and an open space that I would call a multipurpose room.  Beyond that we could see a well equipped kitchen.  The facility was a bargeman’s outreach center as well as a church and provided necessary services and relief to river families in need. 

Going around the stairs toward the front was a surprisingly large church.  Mahogany pews were in about 20 rows.  The altar and side altar had a normal amount of empty space around them. The pulpit of dark wood rose before the congregations and was adorned with thick knotted ‘lines’.  Claire took a lot of time to explain the legend of St. Nicholas.  Her story included that there were three children who had been killed and seven years later he came to the same place and life returned to them.  They were his first miracle!

We then walked up hill and across the town to the tower. It was a medieval installation and people lived in it.  There was a garden of raised beds but Claire had no information about either.  As we went up the stairs behind the tower there were good views of the very snake like Seine.   At the top we viewed the exterior of a former municipal palace which was now a museum with barge related curios.  But she didn’t know the entry fee.  There was a very black capped, white cat that seemed to want to perform and was very entertaining!

By now many had sort of peeled off to walk around on their own.   This started even before our first stop.  Now some got directions to the shopping street and I found the park and Petite Orangerie behind the palace museum.  The terraced lawns were dotted with well - manicured evergreens and small flower beds.  The faded red brick buildings had ancient vines twining up the walls covering cracks and crevices.  One venue seemed to be set up for a wedding.  It stood beside a large white statue of a couple which formed a heart.

I chose a different road down to the town and passed by some lovely buildings.  One in particular had wrought iron that had aged to a Liberty green.  The large sunroom had inviting cushioned couches and a table set for lunch.  Very tempting to have knocked on their door and made a new friend!

Further along, I had a view of the Hotel de Ville – city hall.  Turning toward the river I bumped into Muffie and Mary Ann and we visited the grocer.  If I had brought my wallet I might have bought a bag of chips labeled Nature and with the name that translated to ancient chips!   They then went back the way we had come and I took another road.  I figured we are on the river and the river will be downhill.

When I was back on board I did fill out a comment card to say that our guide was not the best.  In Rouen Christophe had given us almost too much info and this girl didn’t give enough. Back in my cabin I took advantage of the hour before Ruth was due to return and packed.  It is just easier to pack or unpack when only one is in the room.  This is true on any ship but especially here.

I went to the lounge and had a salad of lettuces and cherries and the best tangerine that I have had in years.  Soon Ruth joined me and was over the moon with her enthusiasm for her Versailles excursion.  As we sailed away toward Paris and the end of our first cruise she told me about it.  Sounds like it was better than when I was there.  Viking guides got them to the doors before it opened for the day and made sure they stayed ahead of the throngs of tourists that visit every day.  They also used the whisperers which make for such a pleasant tour.

Ruth went to pack and I stayed for the Lemon Tarte Cooking Demonstration.  I was excited that Demitrios picked me to be his volunteer.  Of course, I had to keep the mood light and also used all the cooking demo ideas I have learned from watching TV.  It was really fun cracking the eggs, whisking things together, and creating the pale, creamy custard.  It was funny when he had me rolling out the dough and then said that he would do it.  I said, “Can’t we do it together?”  Everyone laughed but for a minute reached from behind, placed his hands on mine and we rolled!  My paper Toque was my souvenir but my lovely, crisp oversized jacket and large apron I had to return.

Back in the cabin I wrote to you and then posted here.  Being on line was always a little tricky.  Since they are using the land based free services that are abundant in Europe, the connection is best when you are in a city.

We wore our clothes to dinner that we plan to wear tomorrow on the bus.  It is just easier.  No one dressed up and it seemed appropriate that the main course was therefore chicken!  We said good bye to our favorite waiter, Reuben, who is from Portugal.  Earlier in the week I had asked him why he wasn’t on the Portuguese rivers now that Viking has a tour there.  He said that pay was not as good, which leads me to think that the standard of living in Lisbon is less than that of Paris.

While Ruth attended the briefing I went to settle my bills.  I bought a couple future cruise certificates and only had the tour to Louvre to pay for everything else was included.  While at the talk Ruth found out that our schedule for tomorrow was being changed.  Instead of leaving at 8:45 for Chalon –sur- Soane to board our next ship, the Viking Hermod, we were leaving at 8:00 a.m. to drive to Lyons  The Soane River water is too high.  Our itinerary called for us to arrive there Wednesday.  So while Sunday will be an earlier start with a longer drive I do not think we will miss much of sightseeing but we will miss some of the river scenes.  I think though much of that would have been when I was sleeping.

As I arrived back in Paris the Captain stalled the ship to give us a chance to take an iconic photo which I hope I can post for you later.  It has the diminutive Liberte’ and La Tour Eiffel in the same view!

Dinner was very good, as always.  Dimitrios keeps hugging me since we made the Tarte au Citron together this afternoon.  Tony and Toni asked to sit with us and we enjoyed sharing pictures of home on our phones.  They will be spending a few weeks in Paris before returning to Vermont.  Toni had been a French teacher.  Claire brought us each a little golden Eiffel Tower key chain as a parting gift.

We all hurried to the sun deck to see a farewell highlight.  Since the Millenium celebrations the tower is lighted for five minutes each evening starting at nine.  It sparkles and twinkles like a magical fairy wand.  Amazing!  Oohs and ahhs can be heard all around us.  It is the perfect ending memory of a perfect week of April in Paris.

At 9:30 the entertainment began.  For a half hour two opera singers, a pianist, and an accordionist sang and played.  They started with Bizet and Carmen.  Several other arias and duets and love songs were followed by the lady singing some of Edith Piaf’s most famous tunes.  For the encore we all joined in together for a sweet rendition of April in Paris.  

Then the hugging began.  Not everyone is continuing on for the second leg.  Only 38 of the 141 passengers on board will board the busses in the morning.  Many are staying in Paris for at least a few days.  One or two couples are going on to other parts of Europe but most are flying home after this one great week.

Ruth and I headed to bed as it will be up early tomorrow.  I showered and read awhile but knew the time had come, and so lights were out by 11 and the now gentle lapping of the water against the sides of the ship, lulled me to sleep.