Friday, April 3, 2015

Rouen, April 1

It was no April Fool's joke that Rouen was wonderfully, classically French! It was a little bit of a joke that it is pronounced here with a deep, guttural "ro-en" and comes out as one syllable not much different from a throat clearing, almost German sounding.

Today is definitely a highlight as we visit the city that has the infamous claim to be where Joan of Arc (Jeanne d’Arc) was burned at the stake for heresy.  In the morning, as we sailed through the pastoral scenery dotted with spring lambs and calves which soon revealed white cliffs of limestone, our Program guide Clara gave us a detailed but concise background history of the story.  Of course, you can check with your Uncle Google for a complete refresher but Clara did make it amusing as well as tragic. 
                                           
Sixteen year old Joan of Arc led the French armies to victories against the English.  Then because the king was embarrassed by this and the church was powerful, she was tried because she had claimed to be divinely led and this was heresy.  Also she was guilty of one of the great sins that could be in that day…she wore men’s trousers!  Although she was jailed she had her life as long as she promised to never do it again.  But – she did!  She had been placed in the men’s prison and either did so as a protective method or it was all they gave her!

When she was burned alive at the stake, her ashes were scooped up and re - burned two more times and then cast into the Seine so that there would be no ability for French people to pay homage or pilgrimage to a burial site.   Her Mother later petitioned the King, whined and nagged, to have her proclaimed innocent.  After all, without her, he would not have been king!

Christophe led our tour and was really knowledgeable about the history of not only Joan but of all of Rouen.  We went to the Cathedral where lay Richard the Lionheart and so many others.  It was not an especially beautiful church inside but certainly massive.  The outside is exceptionally decorated.  Monet painted a series of portraits of the façade in every season and time of day. The paintings are mostly titled by color.

We were sufficiently cold and tired and so agreed to stay aboard and catch up on writing, reading, planning and took general break.  We were here overnight and many went out and spent the evening enjoying the city.  A few restaurants were recommended but I was walked out and did not want to face the wind and rain which had returned after our tour.

People on river trips are so friendly and outgoing.  We have eaten with so many interesting couples or pairs of ladies traveling together.  After dinner there was a nautical talk by our captain and he took many questions and answers.  He had time to do this since he was not going to be sailing at night.  We met his girlfriend who was going to be with us for a day or so.  They had lived together in Prague for six months and now he was drawn back to his beloved river.

Bedtime!

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