Beaune and Cluny, Monday, April 6

This day was a well - planned recovery for the change in schedule.  Because we were not docked close to the wine city of Beaune in central Burgundy, the morning excursion turned into an all-day one with lunch in the old city center.  We had signed up for the optional tour of the Abbey of Cluny which was now combined since distance would not allow for the morning tour, lunch on board, and setting out again in the afternoon since our original schedule called for us to be in Chalon – sur – Soane, halfway between the two.  Our tour was an even more all day tour, and yes that is possible!

We left the ship at 7:45 a.m. for a drive of about an hour and forty - five minutes through the lush Kelly green farmlands through which we had passed just the day before.  Our guide gave us, once again, a lot of history of the area as well as a lesson in viniculture.  Wines are labeled by the region, the village, and the plot.  It can be easy to identify the precise land that produced the grapes that went into your bottle of wine.  All white wines are considered Chardonnay but then are classified further by grape and region.  Beaujolais is the next region and wines are never mixed from one place to another.  Some areas might combine all the grapes of a village but the best wines do not.  They are very individually identified.

We stopped along the way to view from the roadside a very beautiful castle that had been bought several years ago to be a ‘holiday house’ for a family with a home in London and one in Rome.  The castle was cheap.  Only about a million and a half dollars but the refurbishing and maintenance has cost close to twenty – five million so far!  That is way many of these old buildings become public.  They might be for touring, or museums.  Many are offices for civic responsibilities or commerce.  Others become hotels, bed and breakfasts, and hostels.

As we continued we passed through villages where each house had a wine cellar that was often visible from the street.  The streets were barely wide enough for the large, comfortable Viking bus.  A few times I held my breath as I looked down and a bicyclist was squeezed between us and an ancient rock wall.  Every village had a Romanesque inspired church with square bell towers.  We passed through the small city of Mâcon and of course I had to make my usual joke.

It must be good practices to cut back all the vines all the way to the bare root stock in the vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.  The plantings are all on the east side of the slopes but every one was no more than a twig.  But for sure they know what they are doing as Burgundy is one of the richest provinces in both architecture and cash.  These plantings produce about 170,000 cases per year.  The rivers running through the manicured fields and vines provide enough irrigation to grow the best grapes.  The alpine mountains on the horizon ensure that the rivers will run through them freely but not too much.  However routine flooding also provides a softening of the limestone underlayment.

We continued on to our destination of the Ancienne Abbey of Cluny which completely overshadows the town itself.  In 910 the Benedictines founded the abbey and it grew to become the most powerful church, not only in France, but of the entire Christian world.  Other monasteries modeled themselves after this community.  Their time was divided between work and prayer but soon they realized that others would do the hard work if the monks just prayed for them.   The Abbey church was begun in 1088 and remained the largest on earth until the completion of St. Peter’s in Rome in the 16^th century.  The church alone, without, narthex was 300 feet long and the vaulted ceiling arched 90 feet above the floor.  Only 7% remains.

Where did it go?  It was not bombed during the war and one of the stained glass windows we saw was original.  During the French Revolution the monks had to hide and many were killed because, of course, they had the money and the power from having people pay them to pray.  The new government sold off the buildings to various interests who in turn sold parts to those who wanted to build shops, or homes or barns.  All of the town is built of Cluny stone as are many of the villages nearby as well as in Lyons and even Paris!

At the end there were only 40 monks in the enormous facility but Benedictines are well known to be hard workers and educators.  They were skilled in tending the vines and in teaching others.  They cultivated the land and produced fine wines and liquors so that the income could support the abbey.

We watched a 3 – D movie that used a combination of creative drawings and pictures of artifacts to tell the story of the building.  Here is a link you might like to use to learn more.  The Abbaye of Cluny.

As we made our way back to the bus we passed a riding school and watched for a while as horses and their riders practiced jumping.  So neat to do in the shadow of the ancient bell tower!  A short drive delivered us to the old city center of Beaune.  We connected up with most of the rest of the passengers who were finishing up their tour of Beaune.  Viking had found, on short notice, a restaurant that could serve all of us in one seating.  Not a small feat in a typical European establishment.  Lunch began with a beautiful fresh variety leafed salad topped with cherry tomatoes and warm cheese crostini.  This was followed by a chicken and pasta plate and finished with a beautiful Tarte Tatin.   Naturally, a deep red Burgundy wine completed the meal.

We crossed the square to the Hôtel-Dieu, "hostel of God."  In France many towns have one intended to be for the sick and impoverished.  This one in particular is remarkable for its architecture and equally so, for the story behind it.  Hotel Dieu in Beaune was a gift of Nicolas Rolin.  He was a wealthy chancellor and was challenged by his beloved wife, Guigone, to do something to save his soul.  He donated the building and a salt – works to the nuns who established the large hospital which we, in these days, might think of as a hospice as many of the patients had no hope of recovery.  All were poor.  If you had money Le Docteur would come to your house.  You still might not live as medicine was primitive in 1443, but you could pay for the privilege of being well attended.

Patients had a bed, which could be closed by curtains, a small table, a chair in case there were visitors and tin plates, cups, and utensils instead of the common wooden trenchers.  All the beds were raised for ease of attendance and faced the small chapel where now is buried Gigone.  The large stained glass is original as this city was not bombed in WW II. 

In one of the small rooms is the Weyden Polyptych of the Last Judgement.  The altar tapestry was cut so that back and front could be seen together.  Many other art works, filled the walls and a Pharmacy displays apothecary jars still containing healing herbs and spices.  The kitchen where the nuns baked bread to give to the poor who waited outside their door every morning was set to demonstrate what it might have looked like.  The duel hearth with mechanical spit which is turn robotically was add in 1698.

The most distinguishable feature had been visible in the distance as we drove past the town at the beginning of our day.  The Burgundian multicolored roof tiles are set in a distinctive geometric pattern.  This “medieval jewel” is easily recognizable as the symbol of Beaune and of the generosity of the man many consider saint - like.

Our day was not over.  We now walked to Le Cellier de la Cabiote where we made our way down a dark, rough staircase to a vaulted cave like wine cellar.  We took seats on long, low benches while our guide talked about the wines of Burgundy.  First was poured Macon IGE 2012 Chateau London, Domain Fichet.   This light wine is one even I would recommend.  The gentle bouquet of apple and pear was appealing and delicious.  A ting puff pastry cleansed our pallets.  Two more wines and small breads followed.  Last was Crème de Cassis 20⁰ Maison Briottet.  This was delicious and I wish they had been more generous.  I was tempted to buy some to take home but a glass bottle of a ruby red, sticky, sweet syrup breaking in my luggage made me rethink that plan!

We continued our walk through town looking at all kinds of pediments, doorways, architectural indications of time and place and made our way to the bus.  The two hour ride home in the warm afternoon soon made most of us sleepy, at least for a little while.  When we arrived it was after six and the next event was the captain’s Welcome Aboard Party at 6:30.  We both quickly washed up and changed and made our way to the lounge just before it began.

I had the Champagne and Crème de Cassis cocktail.  We chatted with some more new friends who had just joined the trip.  Rising to toast the Captain Savatino, a tiny blonde haired, middle aged woman, who does not speak English seemed the thing to do.  Mia, P.D. made her announcements of things to do tomorrow and we proceeded to dinner.  Tonight we sat with Rod and Carole who had come with us from Paris.  Also with Diane and Tom who we had met at the truck stop bathroom break on the relocation between cruises.  Adam is again our waiter but didn’t catch that Ruth and I had swapped seats before the entrée was served.  Once again everything was delicious and we enjoyed the conversation which centered on who traveled where with whom.

We got our coats after dinner and joined Carol and Rod on the top sun deck which was now open.  It had been closed while the boat moved during dinner from the La Soane to the Le Rhone.  Despite the glass windbreak and the dramatically lighted view we did not last long.  Showers and bed were calling our names.  However, I put on my Viking provided robe and slippers and proceeded to the upper deck to get a nice hot tea and post stories for you.  It was after one when I returned to the room and read for a while.