After a good night of sleep with the gently windswept waters
of the River Seine lapping beneath our window, we rose for a leisurely and
delicious breakfast of cooked to order omelets, French toast, fresh juice, and
homemade , or at least boat made jam, we got ready for our first
excursion. And what an outing it was!
During our three hour overview of the city, our tour was a history/architecture
lesson of Paris. I very much like that
Viking uses local city guides when we leave the ship. They know not only all the important things
one should learn, but also add their personal experience and anecdotes that you
would not otherwise have. In two days we
have learned so much including that the French are not crazy about politicians! The more you travel the more you learn that
things are the same the world over!
Since this was an included tour, just about all 148
passengers trooped along three buses but divided into four groups. I know, from experience, that we will be in
the same group all along the way unless it is an optional excursion. Everyone seems very friendly and exited to be
here but we all agree that we are still tired from being so excited as well as
from the travel.
In a verbal snapshot of the city you will see large stone
buildings with dark mansard roofs with little attic windows. The facades are remarkably clean and almost
white in appearance. Typically the first
floor is taller than those above. If
there are shops, the street floor is noticeably taller than the second (in
Europe they would call that the first floor – I tell you this so when you are
here the elevator buttons, if there are any, won’t confuse you!). This is because the street floor holds the
shop, the second floor is shorter and was the residence of the shop owner who
did not want to use up space for himself. The third floor is normal and the top
floor looks shorter but is also set back and with the curved, sloping roof, it
might just look smaller. But how I would
love to be able to go up to that garret and see for myself!
We spent an hour or so at the Notre Dame Cathedral. The massive gothic church is nearly an icon
of the city. The square was crowded, but
not filled, with bundled up tourists waiting in a long but quickly moving line
to enter the church. There were many
guides carrying every form of ‘follow me’ signage. Our guides always carry red and white
‘lollipops’ that are easy to find. One
side is all red with the Viking insignia and the other is white with the number
of our group. Much easier to find than a
sunflower on a stick or a ribbon blowing in the wind. The other thing I like is that we use
‘Quietvox which is a ‘whisperer.’ The
headset allows us the freedom to move around and look at and take pictures of
what we want without having to stand right by our leader and still hear all the
information and insights.
When our group broke up for free time, Ruth, our new friend
Virginia, a lawyer from Albuquerque, and went in search of the Deportation
Museum. This little known memorial
honors the 50,000 French men, women, and children who were sent to the death
camps during World War II. It is a
simple and emotional tribute that I wanted to share. Remember me saying that all the buildings
seemed to be so clean and white? Well, unfortunately, this was true here
too. They were sandblasting and
repairing and the memorial was closed.
Despite this disappointment our morning was delightful. On the way back to meet the bus we stopped in
one of the little shops to look at scarves.
And totally unlike myself and due to the bad influence of Ruth and
Virginia, I bought some! Naturally,
around the corner the same thing was less money and down another block were
some I liked better. But I am okay with
that. We were having fun.
Back at the comfortable tourist bus we headed to the most
famous icon of Paris – La Tour Eiffel!
Here we slowly disembarked for a photo stop. Because of the heavy spring rains, the long,
park like lawn was fenced off. We trod
carefully over the gravelly mud and took as many photos as we could but because
of the closure could not get any really good angles. The tower which was the tallest building in
the world until the Chrysler Building was completed in New York. It is indeed a building as there is a very
nice apartment on the third level where rumor has it that Monsieur Eiffel had
great success entertaining the ladies seeking excitement.
The landmark was designed to celebrate the Universal
Exhibition of 1889. It was a functional
radio broadcast tower for that new medium.
The height of modern technology and demonstrated a key French industry –
iron. We have heard before that when
first built the Parisians did not accept it with love. They hated it because it was an ugly blot on
the city. Our guide told us that that was
because it was bright red and was intended to be torn down immediately after
the closing ceremonies. But they didn’t
have the money for the demolition. So
soon they began to paint it, I guess, trying to disguise it. One time it was black but that didn’t work
and they finally settled one current scheme of three shades of golden
tans. It takes 50 tons of paint, every
five years to keep the now beloved image and most recognizable symbol of France
looking her best! (No, no mistake. 50 tons every five years!)
Believe it or not the tour was tiring and it had been about
four hours since breakfast so we were happy to return to our home away from
home for lunch. Again we chose to eat in
the lounge and there was soup, small sandwiches, salad and a delicious smooth
custard with caramel sauce for dessert. Nikki, the Hungarian pianist, played
background music and sang softly. The sun
peeked out between the clouds and we began to feel relaxed.
But this could not last long. I had opted for the tour of the Louvre. When I was here before we did not have time to
fit it into our short stay. The Louvre
is the second largest museum in the world in size but currently owns the
largest collection and is focused on Renaissance and earlier art. The lines are long and the interior is labyrinthine.
To go here without a guide would be
impossible for the average person. But
with our guide, Jean Louis, it was a breeze.
The bus pulled into the underground bus parking and while Jean
shepherded our two groups inside the other guide went ahead and collected our
group ticket. While passing a large
scale model of the buildings he explained the history of how the garrison,
became a fortress, became a palace, became a museum. And the cut away model showed the underground
we were walking through which was discovered when the palace was being
rebuilt. The high, thick, curved, stone
walls had been the original and where we were walking had been addep deep,
about 20 foot deep and 30 foot wide moat!
We met and claimed our tickets beneath Chinese American
architect I. M. Pei’s glass pyramid.
Much like Eiffel’s tower this creation was hated and called a ‘despotic
act.’ Now it is symbol of the ‘New
Paris.’ We enter a special group line
and bypassed hundreds of patient attendees.
We were told to not be Americans but to be pushy and shove a little to
keep others from breaking us apart as we entered the most visited exhibits. And we did, a little.
So much to see and so beautifully displayed beneath the
ornate ceiling, reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel, the paintings and sculptures
of the central exhibition alone could easily take months to see. But our art history guide got us to the
highlights and by way of the whisperer guided us to the best viewing and photo
spots. Hard to believe that they allow
photos, without flash. I noticed that
people with cameras could manage this but people with phone have not learned
how to operate this feature.
During the free time some people had a coffee at one of the
many restaurants or shopped in one of the many stores. Everything from McDonald’s to Luis Vuitton to
The Apple Store is located here. I went
outside with Sue and Tim. They had a
smoke and walked over to the front of the building to take more pictures and to
also have photos of the half size Arc de Triomph that completes the three arch
line through the center of Paris.
I did learn something about the display of Mona Lisa that the
guide did not. At one point I was standing
to the right side, the lady’s left, and noticed a large white swipe on the overly
large glass protective shield. I called
over the guard and asked if it was dirty or was scratched. Turns out this half-moon shaped narrow stripe
was a scratch. A lady visitor had bought
a coffee cup in the gift shop and threw it at the painting. She was not jailed but paid a big fine!
As we worked our way out of the museum we saw so many more
beautiful things. We had seen three
DaVinci’s other than ‘the lady with the Mona Lisa smile.’ We saw Botticelli, Rembrandt, and I could not
even begin to name them all. I learned
the story of the most famous painting of Napoleon crowning Josephine and how
his mother was painted in after the commission had been completed because he
wanted her to be even though she had not been actually in attendance. I saw a painting of a true story of a ship wreck
and one where Napoleon made me laugh. He
looked just like Bob Newhart!
After meeting back at the Apple Store we made our way to the
bus. There was quite a delay as some
other driver had not purchased a parking ticket and although he was at the exit
gate, the arm wouldn’t lift. He had to
run back to the entrance to purchase one and back to his bus. Clara, the Program Director said it happens
all the time!
Heavy evening rush hour traffic delayed us further and by
the time I got to the ship I had only 8 minutes to change for dinner and make
my way to the briefing. I was about five
minutes late and missed the festivities.
After introducing the captain, chef, hotel manager etc. everyone sang
happy birthday to Captain Fantzy – he turned 28! And we did learn as he came around to great
everyone that his Mom was a big fan of Happy Days and he is indeed named for
The Fonz. Fontzy is his first name and
it is pronounced like the Henry Winkler character!
On we went to dinner of a delicious braised beef and filet
combination topped off by a light chocolate cream over a crispy chocolate crust. We only lasted a little while after dinner in
the lounge to enjoy more of Nikki’s music while we chatted with some of our new
friends and watched some couples execute well practiced dance steps on the
compact dance floor. It was our own
Dancing with the Stars Monday night!
You have paved the way for our upcoming visit to Paris. Your estute details never cease to impress me. I will look for the scratch on Mona Lisa's glass and share that info with the others on our trip. So much paint on the Eiffle Tour will sunprise them as well. Merci.
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