Friday, April 10, Arles

Another change of location and instead of docking in Tarascon so that we would have a sort drive to Arles, we had to go all the way to Avignon.  Another boat from another line was broken down in our space.  In France, Viking does not own their own docks.  Not sure why we didn’t park next to them and walk through to go ashore, but perhaps it was not a passenger ship.  Since we had sailed all night we and were father than intended we left early for a 40 minute drive to Arles.

This typical town is a rich one.  Merchants, soldiers, sailors all had to travel through Arles and the city fathers collected the taxes.  Here again was a sweet old town with some cobbled streets remaining.  Sidewalk cafes with colorful umbrellas and matching chairs were at every corner.   Shop keepers were just opening their shutters at 10:00 a.m.  Our guide was an enthusiastic lady who was a lifelong resident of this town and shared many details of interest to one time visitors. 

Here, again, Roman ruins are the high light.  It is in very good condition although metal stands have replaced much of the stone slab seating that you would expect.  In many places original stonework can still be seen.  Some of the arches have never needed any repair.  On the sand floor of the ring, a Gladiator was teaching young school children some of the tricks of his trade.  It was much more fun to watch than it was to listen to the guide and view the photos she was trying to show us.

The old Roman Amphitheater is now used for concerts and special events.  Twice a year, during an Easter festival and again in September, they hold bullfights and all 20,000 are filled.  The tickets are quite expensive, as much as 100Euros.  In France they do not kill the bull.  The horns grow more upright and strings and ribbons are wrapped around them.  The Matador must unwrap the string, cut the ribbon and pat the bull on the head between the horns.  By this time the bull has usually had enough of this nonsense and chases the Matador until he jumps the fence, often with the bull right behind him!

We also visited the ornate Roman Theater.  This smaller venue was used in the past for concerts and plays.  A flat side creates a stage area and seating is semi-circular.  A high wall, still partially intact, kept people from viewing who have not paid.  Nearby the streets became even narrower as these were the streets for the ‘middle class.’

We had not opted for the Steps of Van Gogh included tour but you cannot visit Arles without crossing paths with the artist who was not recognized for his greatness until after his death.   It was here in Arles that he famously cut off his ear in 1889.  His great friend, Gauguin, had seen his depression which had been greatly increased by his lost love.  Gauguin was with him when it happened or soon after.  He took the ear, wrapped it up and gave it for safekeeping to his girlfriend.  Although he told her not to open the package, she, of course, did. 

It was she who called for a doctor and had Van Gogh taken to the hospital for the poor.  He healed quickly and the doctor said that is all well and good but your mental state needs to be helped as well.  This hospital had a wing for the men and for the ladies.  There was a lovely courtyard which inspired Van Gogh to paint it several times.  It is planted today seasonally to mimic what can be seen in these canvasses. Van Gogh heeded this advice but in his lifetime never became the successful artist he dreamed to be.  He sold only one painting in his death!

While waiting for the others to join us, Ruth treated to a cone of Gelato.  I chose grapefruit but then met someone who had gotten one in lavender.  Wished I had thought of that as lavender is my favorite Jujube flavor!

We returned the 40 minutes to the ship.  Our tour ended up being shorter than originally scheduled but I think I have a feel of the place.  Once again we ate on deck.  So much good conversation happens in the warm sun over a glass of wine!  Knowing that tomorrow we had an optional excursion planned, I decided to spend part of the afternoon on the pre-packing.  It always is hectic on the last day and I Ruth and I agree that it isn’t easy to have us both trying to do this at the same time.  It seemed that things were not compacting as well as s they did on the way here.  Eventually I will perfect the packing system.  I did bring way more than I needed since it was two separate cruises and in the evening I could easily have worn everything more than once.   On long cruises I do, but because I had the space at the start of the trip, I filled it up!

The Farewell Captain’s Toast was at 6:30 and Captain Sandrine made a little speech in her native French which was roughly translated by Mia, the Program Director.  We toasted with our new friends, and this was followed by the daily briefing.  The Farewell Dinner was the same menu as the one last week so Ruth and I decided to eat from the Bar Menu on the AquaVit Terrace.  Ed and Lynn decided to join us as did Dennis and Carol.  We wanted to do this in order to enjoin the evening sail. 

The Captain had gotten permission to do a two and a half hour sail out and back since this is the loveliest part of the Rhone, which we had missed seeing because of the docking change.  We had to sit at two tables because four is a tight fit at dinner.  But the laughter and comradery flowed easily between us.  We enjoyed the lighter menu of burgers and fries, loaded potatoes and chicken Caesar salads.  We watched the soft dusk become a pink sunset.  The city lit up the encompassing walls and towers.  The famed Pont Avignon was bathed in dramatic lighting giving it a romantic storybook feeling.

Gabor, the maître d’ had not seen Ruth and I in the dining room and came to find us to be sure everything was all right.  He visited for a little and poured more wine.  He took the time to point out some of what we were seeing.  Gabor also made sure the dining room’s strolling accordionist came to play for us.  Soon there were complimentary specialty after dinner Spritzers with mint leaves.

The pianist and Hotel Manager were checking the deck speakers and I asked them to sing for us and they did.  They laughed and broke into a chorus of Champs Elysees complete with dance steps.  What a wonderful dinner this was.  Best idea of the whole trip!  But it came to end too soon when people began arriving for the Disco on the Terrace!  We moved inside where we could hear the music but it was not blasting!  The boat next to us was also having a dance party and after about an hour we decided to see the Blanket Show, as my Dad used to say.  Our cabin was quiet, our beds were warm, our comforters were fluffy, and we were soon asleep.