Saturday, August 30, 2014

Stellenbosch




The rain this morning is torrential.  Steady and creating havoc for the vendors setting up across from our front door. Driving conditions are the worst we have seen and the rush hour traffic extends well into the morning as we drive out to the countryside.  Cape Town is a sort of a comma shape or half circle of a city nestled between the sheer heights of the Table Top Mountain range and the rough Atlantic waters.  There is no ‘cross town traffic.’

Today is our last full day in the city and of our trip.  Bonnie, Fred, Linda, and Colleen have a driver to take them whale watching in Hermanos.  The rest of us head out to what, even through the rain spotted windows, can be seen to be beautiful countryside.  The city soon gives way to townships, light industry, the largest mall in Africa (400 stores), and newer, modern township homes for which the government has a wait list, and private residences.  This suddenly becomes countryside as we head East to Wine Country.  

Cattle dot the Springtime greening grasses and Calla Lilies clump as random weeds in the fields.  The road side flat land reaches to the far horizon as though it is a chiffon blouse that is too big.  It rolls, and pleats, and raises up into hills and then a mountain backdrop.  We see tobacco, vegetables, and orchards begin and then grow in size. Soon the bush grapes can be seen drawing low straight lines across the fields and up the mountain sides. Bush grapes are kept low and full to improve the sugar of the grape to the wineries specifications. 

Traditional grape vines appear as we turn off the highway and drive past goat and dairy farms.  Our first stop is the Fairview Winery.  Goats Do Roam and Goatfather wines are two of their tongue in cheek varieties. There is a goat tower but the animals are hiding inside of it to avoid the rain.  We are here for a Master Tasting and are escorted to a large room with broad windows and a massive fireplace.  Above the mantle a large gilt framed, flat screen displays ever changing pictures of beautiful local scenes.  I like the idea.  From my side of the heavy oak table I look out to what would be a lovely view of the vineyard but it is obstructed by thick plastic creating a temporary shelter for the outdoor seating.  Behind me are massive two story tall stainless steel tanks that we learn have various planks of wood suspended in them to flavor the wines.  

Our hostess, Denise, has placed before each of us two stemmed glasses and a narrow boat tray with eight cheese samples. We will be tasting eight wines and since they will range upwards from lightest to heaviest only two glasses are needed – one for whites and one for reds.  The cheeses are either goat or cows milk samples and one is a mix. Some are dusted with things like dill and herbs and others are infused with sweet chilies or cranberries.  We taste a wine, bite a cheese and taste again and see how the tastes differ.  Even I can tell.

We are anxious to work our way to the Pinotage.  Grown only here in South Africa since 1925, the grape takes the delicacy of a Pinot Noir and grafts it with the heartiness of a Hermitage grape.  The unique taste is smooth and inviting.

The next place we stop is the Leopards Leap Winery..  Here we try six wines while seated at the modern wine bar.  We get to choose individually what we would like to try and everyone has a different favorite.  We spend some time enjoying the roaring fire and browsing books from the slightly askew bookshelves. The rain falls harder so we sit longer.
 
Since we have now tried fourteen wines and lunch is approaching, we stop in Franschhoek.  This town of broad parks and bright white shops is called after the French who settled here - French Corner.  It would be so nice to spend time wandering the touristy village but no one wants to catch their death of cold at this late stage of the game.  We decide on a light lunch and go to a creperie.  The small but delightful The Famous Franschhoek Pancake House is our choice. The very gay, and quirky host chats us up constantly.  First explaining that his crepes are a cross between an omelet and a pancake.  After we order he gives us his life story of how he came to be in this place and make these delicious treats.  Mine is layered with thick and crunchy cinnamon sugar and topped with a warm lemon cream. Iva has lamb in hers and everyone has chosen something different.

We noticed Kay outside at one point, sheltered by the overhang of the promenade, taking pictures so we have a few since we will all be sharing.

Our host then gives us a ‘reading’ based on our birth dates and has us sample his new specialty – French Ice Cream.  Made with a thick custard base it is more like homemade than many.  Steve likes the berry one so much he buys a cup of it.  I resist although a cone sounds like a good idea until I look out the cloudy window where once again the rain is pouring.

We do walk along outside under the cover of the overhang and check out a couple of chocolate shops.  Susie is so funny.  After getting a couple of pieces of premium candy she holds out her hand with the last of her remaining Rand coins and asks in a little girl voice, “Is this enough to get another piece.”  It is not.  Mindy adds her last few coins and the lady laughs and gives them each another Amarula Cream.

When we are back in the van we stop at the prison where Nelson Mandela spent the last of his term.  He had been moved to the warden’s house here and his guards became more like servants.  Mandela was receiving so many guests and dignitaries that they moved him away from the city to try to hide that idea from the public.

At Tokara, a Stellenbosch Winery, we sampled six more wines of our choice and some olive oils.  At each place everyone except Bud found at least one that they liked.  Iva bought a Pinotage at Fairview and something else here for Linda to take to her son.  Again a fire roared.  Again we dodged the downpours.  Tokara is a sort of hobby winery for the gentleman that owns Cartier among other things.  The wine tastings are free and the college students love that!  For a total of $8.50 we have sampled 20 of the best of three vintners each of whom has vineyards scattered across the valley and up the mountain sides to take advantage of differences in soil and microclimates.

We drove around the campus of Stellenbosch University, Ian’s alma mater.  The white classic buildings are ‘hostels’ for the students and the modern classroom structures give the town quite a lovely English or Ivy League college town feel.  We paused in front of Ernie Els Restaurant and also at an ancient German wine press.  We saw Oryx in the field.

We passed more townships on the way back to town and Ian continued to try to make us understand how these are a good solution.  But poverty is hard to climb out of and there really isn’t much future for these millions of people. 

Overall, Ian has shared a lot with us, about the country, government, his personal life, and the way of life of the people of Cape Town.  Salaries are low and those who make 320R a month get the new government housing.  Since there is currently about a ten to one exchange rate that means that some working people earn about $32 a month.  A grape harvester might earn 110R or $11 a day. Goods and services are not expensive by our standard but because of the low wages many things can be out of reach for the average resident of Cape Town.

We had agreed at breakfast that at 6:30 tonight we would meet for dinner.  A lot of this trip seems to be focused on what to eat when! We are treating Vitalis tonight. Linda had gotten a recommendation from their guide. The Whale Watching group also had a great day and some sunshine.  They did watch whales and also stopped at a Cheetah rescue to pet the beautiful cats.  Ironically Linda also bought two bottles of wine for her son.

We get two cabs to head through the rain to the Victoria and Albert Wharf.  Kay, Susie and I climb over the lowered backs of the second seat and squeeze into the third row.  Knees to our chins and hip by jowl we ride to the wharf.  When we get there Colleen and Bonnie get out of the car and slam the doors and start to walk away.  Bonnie realized that they had left us trapped in the far back and laughingly rescues us.

The restaurant that had been recommended, Quay 4, is closed for remodeling.  So Vitalis checks out the Ferrymans Pub and leads us there.  It is delightful!  We climb the steep thick planks of the stairway and cross to a warming fire place.  Vitalis and I order the half order of ribs.  When the heavy white ceramic plate arrives it is what looks more like the full order and then some.  Everyone makes different choices.  Susie and Bonnie share Spanakopita and a cheeseburger.   No one has any room for dessert.

This is definitely our last “OATmeal.”  We relive some of the great things we have seen and done and plan for the reunion!

We finally leave and have the doorman of the Victoria and Albert hotel call us two cabs.  We ride in the same groups but this time have Bonnie and Colleen, over her protest, ride in the back.  Somehow Susie once again ends up there.  We laughingly encourage the driver to speed up over the speed bumps to give them a more enjoyable experience.  Poor Susie!  When we arrive at the hotel Kay and I get out of the back seat, look over the top of the car and say, “Ready!” Slam!  In perfect harmony.
Of course we do let them out right away and everyone lingers over good nights.  

Mindy and Steve had not gone with us as they have to be out the door at 5:30 a.m. because they are adding an independent safari as the conclusion of their journey.  They had met us in the lobby as we left for dinner and everyone had jugged goodbye with promises to keep in touch.

Back in our room, 113, Susie and I had packed between the winery tour and dinner so we just showered and read and went to sleep.  Tomorrow is a long travel day!

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