Moving On To Zambia

We left Moremi from the Sankoya Air Strip.  We arrived at the wide dusty road that operated as the landing strip and waited for our small planes to arrive.  Flying to Okavango we had left Kasane which is the air field for Chobe and flown to this remote wilderness.  This morning we took the 45 minute drive to meet the eleven passenger and five passenger planes which were bringing enthusiastic new visitors.  

Susie and I were assigned to the smaller plane and she rode in the co-pilot’s seat.  We returned to Kasane and boarded safari vehicles which took us to through the Botswana exit customs.  We bypassed what was, perhaps, five miles of semis waiting for the customs procedure and onto the ferry that held one truck at a time.  There are little markets for them to buy food and prostitutes work the line. 

At the “bridge”, which is not built yet, our group moved onto two speed boats.  These took us across the Four Corners of the Zambezi River and in five minutes had us disembarking onto the shores of Zambia.  Peter helped me ashore and immediately showed me his basket of beautifully hand carved mahogany statues of Hippos, Elephants, Giraffes, and multi-wooded bowls. He told me to “Open the window for Peter.” The system is that we all immediately walk past the vendors and board the bus.  Once on board, Vitalis took all our passports and went to the passport office. Once he left the bus, then if you wanted to buy, you opened your window and the vendors knew to approach.  I think most everyone but me bought copper bracelets, carved salad servers, bowls, or figurines.  Prices start high and bargain down. The plan works well as the vendors have a chance to sell but the visitor does not risk any hassle or a chance of theft.  It also limits the time because when the bus leaves – the bus leaves!

Once we left the border and made our way to the highway we ate our box lunch sandwiches and fruit on our way to Livingstone Airport.  Here Vitalis collected $17 USD to pay the departure tax while we tried to connect to the internet.  I checked texts but should have also downloaded email for later reading.

Now we proceeded through security and went to our planes.  Seven of us, plus Vitalis, boarded a ten passenger Cessna and took off.  We caught a brief glimpse of the spray of the falls rising on our right. After about an hour and a half flight, due to headwinds, we all met up again at the air strip for the Lufapa Tented Camp in Kafue National Park.  This camp is so remote that it has its own air field and is known only as the Lufapa Strip.

Very excited, personally, to see a step stool to help us climb up into the Land Rovers! 

We were greeted at the camp by the men who act as servers, housekeepers, and general staff.  This camp is so remote with no internet or cell service, no phones, no nearly medical care that there are only three women working here and one is the camp manager.   Our welcome drink of refreshing citrus juice was almost overlooked because of the breathtaking view. 

The camp sits at the convergence of the Lufapa into the broad Kafue River.   Although tented this camp is first class.  The large lodge has a comfortable seating area for 20 and a table that can easily seat that many.  This is backed by a broad deck with a railing suitable to use a bar with stools pulled up to it.  Directly below laps the Kafue River with Hippo eyes watching us.

Pizza baked freshly in a large stone oven over an open fire of wood was served with iced tea or juice.  There was a delicious chocolate cake roll filled with fresh cream.  We were shown to our large cabin with, for the first time, separated, oversized, twin beds.  The large shower and separate toilet will make this very comfortable to use.  Our own deck with chairs overlooks the river as well.

We had a little time to get settled and then took a night drive to find animals based solely on the reflection of their eyes in the light.  It was not super successful and we already had been told that because this is a relatively new resort, there are not a lot of animals.  They are still skittish of humans.

We returned to our Sundowner Drinks at the bar and a delicious dinner of Chicken Fricassee and apple tart.  Then, as always, we were guided to our cabin.  I am delighted to have for the first time a table and chair so I can sit comfortably while writing to you.

Susie showered and for a couple of hours I wrote or read.  A great day of travel as our journey continues.