Chobe Flood Plain

Our camp is right outside the Ngoma Gate of the Chobe National Park.  We had our wakeup call at 6:00  and were told we could safely leave our tents at 6:30 because it would be light enough to make sure no animals would be in our path.  The first night we heard loud banging noises and things that go bump in the night.  We went to the window and door and could see a small elephant, maybe a baby but that is still pretty big, at the bottom of our steps tearing off branches from the little tree next to our cabin. Mama called her and away she ran, bumping into things and stopping to taste a few more twigs.  This was about 1:15 in the morning.  Each night, since we are now in the wilderness part of our trip, we hear animals foraging.

The terrain here is so very different.  This is Woodland Savannah.  The grass is not quite as tall and reedy and the trees are very short, except for some Acacia. The elephants keep the trees short so the babies and young ones have something to eat that they can reach easily and that isn’t too difficult to pull out.

The animals are pretty much the same but some are new to us and they are all new to Bud and Kay, Mindy and Steve, and to Colleen who have joined us here now.  It is fun to share in their excitement and those of us that have been together since the first camp are trying hard not to compare this one to that, or this experience to that one. 

Some of the new animals are: Southern Giraffe, the Spotted Hyena, and the Banded Mongoose.  The Mongoose was living close to the part of the river that was still flowing.  Several ran across the beach in front of us and hid in the shade of a tree, climbing over each other and tumbling like playful kittens.

Here we are seeing more birds as we drive along the sandy edge of the islands in the plain and the guides are so very quick to spot and identify them.  We have seen the Tawny Eagle, the Brown Snake Eagle, the Black chested Eagle and the African Fish Eagle.  With his white feathered cap the African fish Eagle looks like a smaller version of our own Bald Eagle.  We can spot the nest, Find the birds resting in leafless trees, and can take the time for them to fly.  Spectacular bird watching!

This plain is the Caprivi Strip.  When the Botswana was under the British Protectorate to help them remove Dutch control, the Germans were also present in the Southern Continent.  The Germans, like so many others, were seeking a shortcut from the Atlantic to the Indian Ocean.  Much like our own Explorers, Lewis and Clark were trying to reach the Pacific.  The Brits wanted complete control of Botswana and Namibia and did not want to fight the Germans so made a compromise with them.  The British gave up a narrow area of northern Botswana to the Germans in exchange for this control and mineral rights.  

The Germans thought they had the best of the deal when they attained what became known as the Caprivi Strip, named for their General Caprivi who had negotiated the treaty.  They thought it was a direct access to the ocean but the British knew it ended at the Zambezi and Victoria Falls which they had already discovered.   This trick strengthened British control and created a corner where Namibia, Botswana, Northern and Southern Rhodesia came together.  After the later revolution the Rhodesias, named for Rhodes, became Zambia on the north and Zimbabwe in the South.  These four corners meet at the Zambezi still today!

When we saw a large flock of Lappet Faced Vultures flying in the same direction and circling, we knew what must lie beneath.  We could see enough of the prey to recognize the Impala.  The flock of vultures was larger than I could have imagined.  The birds themselves were bigger, as well.  They totally covered the animal.  We could see others pacing alongside the kill and waiting their turn to feast.  There is a definite hierarchy among the animals and even within each species and within families.  At the edge of the dinner table, so to speak were the Marabou Storks waiting to clean up the leftovers, although I doubt there is much.

One clue that anything is happening is that the giraffes will all stop, face the situation, and watch motionlessly before they go back to eating the tender new leaves of the trees.  Their preferred meal is at just the right height and they are the only ones that can reach it!

While we had our morning tea break we watched Hippos playing in the shallow waters.  During our afternoon tea the ladies from the nearby village came to demonstrate basket weaving.  Many of us bought small baskets or bracelets.  The ladies do this to raise the money for the uniforms and transportation for their children who have a free public education through college but must get their properly dressed and on their own.  

On our second morning we took an extended drive so that we could go deeper into the park.  We had our morning tea and a picnic lunch.  After lunch, Nick explained the History of Botswana and did a very good job telling us about how both the Dutch and British made differences here.  He explained the Boer War and also spent time on the culture and habits of the people. 

On the return we saw vast herds of elephant and zebra and buffalo stretching for miles along the distant bank. Incredible numbers.  We now know for ourselves why a group is called a Dazzle of Zebra. 

We stopped and looked at some skeletons and the still smoldering remains of an Antelope that had died of Anthrax.  The Park Service burns the carcass so other animals won’t eat it and get sick. We waited while an unending Rank of Impala crossed the beach to the water until we finally drove slowly through them.   At the Elephant mud bath we laughed together when the Warthog tried to get in on the act and was chased away.  Dominant Mama Elephant swung her trunk at him and off he scooted with her in hot pursuit.  She turned on a dime and went back to supervise the others and eventually move them on. 

Then it happened! Our Guide, Six, who had frequently checked under the hood at signs of smoke, turned off the car and the alternator quit.  It was after 5:30, about a quarter to 6:00, with the park closing at 6:30.  Out we climbed out into the soft sand.  Everyone got at the head of the car and pushed it backwards downhill until the engine caught.  Once he had power again he was able to let Guide Nick know that we were delayed but on the way.  We checked out at exactly the last minute.

On our last night we again met at the Boma.  Nick was our Chief.  He explained that In Botswana all community decisions are made by coming together to discuss them.  If someone has done a bad thing, they will get beaten with a cane.  Now a days this is done while they are dressed. Nick and Junior, the camp manager, also explained that even today when a couple wants to get married the boy’s uncle speaks for him to the girl’s uncle.  The uncles make the arrangements or can say no.  This decision is respected or the couple will lose support of the family.  This is emotional and family support, not financial.  The young man must bring a dowry to the bride and provide for a celebration for the whole village.  If there is ever a divorce then the bride keeps the gifts and the profit from those gifts.

As the evening ended, the staff performed several songs and dances to wish us farewell.  And then came the ‘highlight’ of the day.  We performed for them!  First we sang a low key, somewhat guttural version of Getting to Know You.  Noreen had brought the words.  Linda had brought Kazoos. She gave five to staff and four to us. The rest all sang with great gusto – The Happy Wanderer. When we got to the Val de rah-ha-ha-ha-ha part the staff couldn’t stop laughing either.  Before the end they we joyfully joining in.

Early day tomorrow due to a change of flight schedules, or actually, introduction of scheduled flights.  The charter company we are to fly with is adding scheduled flights so we must be up by 5:00 and on our way to the airport at 6:00 a.m.!

Good night.