Karongwe Private Game Reserve

Karongwe River Lodge

Wednesday, august 6, 2014

Sometimes when I am exhausted I am so overtired that I really can’t settle down and sleep well.  That was last night.  After the long flight, after being settled into the beautiful hotel, after checking in with the family and online with you, after a very hot very long shower, and after reading 60 pages of my book – sleep just did not come quickly or stay long.

This morning we were up early and down to breakfast by 7:30 and enjoyed an expansive buffet with made to order omelets.  I drank three pots of hot tea and gathered up my gear ready to board the shuttle to the airport.  We flew on Airlink, a South African Air commuter line and boarded a small prop plane for the 11:15 flight to  Phalabora.   We, arrived at the Krugar Park Gateway Airport to meet our driver.  A  quick stop in the ladies room was a fun surprise.  To wash your hands you turn a little rock and water bubbles up to splash your hands clean.

Our hour and a half drive north east to the lodge was over a highway with one lane in each direction that was more pothole than highway. We saw our first wild life and it was so much fun.  Baboons were playing along the fence and then we passed a giraffe just munching a tree top.  Turning off of this so-called highway onto the dirt track was almost a relief.  

The entry drive of the camp had Kudu, Impala, and Waterbok.  Just inside the gate of the lodge the Warthogs greeted us.  It is too cool to enjoy the beautiful pool that we passed on the way to open air reception area where we were greeted with a delicious, fruity cocktail.  We met our guide/driver, Gus, and tracker, Thomas.  

Our cabin #R10 is located right on the Limpopo River and is a spacious log house, elevated off the ground and has a beautiful wide deck overlooking the water and the wildness. We had a only a few minutes to admire the spacious accommodations and I can’t wait to use the elegant footed tub or the triple sized tiled shower.  But no time now.  We have to get to the formal tea and then to our first game drive.

Oh my!  Everything you would imagine.  I was last to reach the Rover and had a seat in the last row high above the dirt road.  I loved it!  The view was great and I didn’t miss a thing.  The roads are barely such and disappear into deep ruts and become high ridges.  We saw lots of the same animals and then got word from another driver that a leopard had been spotted.  We drove off bouncing high into the air, off of the thickly padded leather seat, and thumped down only to rise for the occasion again!

When we got to the spot overlooking the river where the leopard had been spotted, we waited patiently but it did not return.  We set out then to find the elephants and did.  Following the dung heaped road we could see stripped trees and knew they had passed through.  Then we could hear them long before Thomas spotted them.   

For a few minutes the ‘Ellies’ crossed the road ahead of us and like a gazelle himself, Thomas left his tracker seat and was in the vehicle.  He would be too much of an appetizer for a hungry or angry elephant.  Although they are huge they were very hard to see once in the bush.  The leafless trees and shrubs are of a same shade of grey as the hide.  But when the ears flapped, goodness, how close they were!  We watched for quite a while when we moved on toward the sunset.

We thought our day was ending, but no.  The leopard was spotted again and back we raced clinging on for dear life.  And this time we saw the majestic cat and cubs lounging along the riverside.  Very difficult to spot the babies.  The mom graciously stretched to her full majesty as she rose and walked to a clear sandy bank and laid back down.  It was a good way for her to distract predators from the precious young ones.  My old camera go the best picture of her.  All the haze in the air prevented perfection you can clearly see her spots which I could not with the naked eye.

 

We continued down to the riverside for our “Sundowner.”  We paused as a family of Impalas led by a large buck leapt and flowed around us, passing both in front and behind us.  Our Sundowner was elegant.  Our preordered choice of beverage was accompanied by delicious bacon wrapped dates, chocolate covered strawberries and trail mix all set out on a white linen cloth laid across the front fold out grill of the Range Rover.

 

The purple mountains were a majestic backdrop to our gathering and I gave the traditional South African toast of ‘Cheers!’  While we sipped and chatted about our luck of having seen two of the ‘Big Five’ on our first game drive, an emergency call came over the radio.  One of the rangers had broken down in their truck.  Gus, the Head Ranger, packed us up in a hurry to go to the aid of the only girl driver.  As we rushed by headlight and spotlight to the group two other vehicles also arrived.  The lady mechanic and her pick up were there and so was a big up empty Rover.  So we were not needed and went on our way, again on deeply rutted paths.  

We had a lesson in astronomy in the deep darkness under the Southern Cross.  It was so clearly identifiable as was Scorpio and Alpha Centaury .  Then Thomas swung the huge spotlight slowly from side to side looking for eyes startled into stillness.  Then it happened.  Bang, crack!  An instantaneous flat tire and bent rim.  Out we clambered to the roadside while Fred, on the tour with us, held the spotlight, Thomas jacked up the truck, and Gus changed the tire.  They might qualify for the Pit Crew at NASCAR, so quick were they. Five minutes and we were on our way.

Thomas was back to swinging the spotlight with no luck and then smack ahead of us in the road strolled a Civet. Really rich deep coloring in the bright light and it was not disturbed at all as it strolled stalkingly up the road after giving us only a cursory glance.

We arrived back at camp where the 16 others in our camp had already returned.  A glass of sherry and some hot chocolate quickly warmed us up.  It is amazing how cold it gets and how quickly once the sun goes down. We had about fifteen minutes until the BOMA started.   A Boma is the bar-b-que that identifies this part of the world.  Michael the chef had told us at tea that tonight we would have Kudu stew and some special dessert pudding.  And we did.  In the fire light, with the huge pit ahead of us and a blaze right behind us we enjoyed white tablecloth service and a surprising good meal.  

Homemade Pot Bread that was studded with apricot jam and cream was served with Butternut soup.  We then moved to the buffet for beef sausages, Rosemary rotisserie chicken, and baked potatoes at the first station.  Next there was polenta, a tomato and onion sauce for it, creamed spinach and the Kudu Stew.  A Greek salad finished off the main course.  At dessert the children were roasting marshmallows so I could not resist. The dessert pudding was also delicious.  Very much like a bread pudding with no bread.  It is twice baked and again was topped with apricot jam.  Coffee and tea was in urns and everything was delicious.  

Fred and his wife Linda retired from the tables to the fire pit and Susie joined them.  I wrapped up in the pretty wool blanket at my chair and started to write to you.  We were the last to leave the dining arena and stroll along the light paths back to the cabin.  After readying my clothes, charging a battery and packing my bag for tomorrow I am now finishing this.  I am going to add a few pictures and then try to send it out for you to enjoy.  Then, at last my long hot soak in the elegant tub and bed.  The knock on the door will be at 5:30 am so we will have 30 minutes to get dressed, drink some tea, and head out for our three hour sunrise drive.  Then breakfast and a hike before lunch.  If I am living this time tomorrow I will post more for your pleasure!