So Long – Farewell!

At 3:43 this morning (now yesterday morning as I am writing this) the phone in our room rang.  I hear Susie say. “You have the wrong room.” Yes we got someone else’s wake up call.  Maybe one meant for Mindy and Steve.  Certainly not for us.  We had stayed awake a little later last night know that today would be a long two days for us.  Of course, even though I had taken a second Tylenol PM just an hour before, I could not get back to sleep.  I had to take a second one because the first one didn’t work.  Phew! Bad timing to the max!

We got our act together and went down to breakfast late.  I did stop by the desk and after confirming that it was not an automated call or based on an automated request let them know just how much we did not appreciate it.

We wanted to eat late just because with today’s schedule we need to be fully fueled when we leave the hotel at 11:00 a.m. Bonnie, Fred, Linda, and we breakfasted together.  We heard more about the adventures they had yesterday.  The dining room was getting crowded so we decided to meet up with Bonnie and go across to the vendors to find some beads that Susie had liked.

Bundled up against the high wind and blowing rain we dodged falling canopies and flying plywood to look for a giraffe etched ostrich egg for Bonnie. When we didn’t find it we decided we were too early and went to the Food Market Café instead.  This neat store had very delicious looking fresh food at very good prices and lots of options for deli breakfast or lunch. Even a Sushi bar was getting ready for the days service. We didn’t buy anything but if they had had Jujubes, I would have stocked up at those prices!

We tried again to check out the stalls in the square.  There are crews that set up for the store owners and they were really having a very difficult time.  Loud crashes had Susie jumping.  We found the Ostrich egg.  The seller had not yet set up but someone knew right where they were.  Bonnie loved her ecru etched egg.  She plans to put a light in it.  It will be so unique.

Susie found her beads and I succumbed and bought some for Maddie T.  I found some unique boxes that are shaped like Africa but have secret openings.  We hurried out of the cold but back at the hotel I agreed to help Iva find the same boxes, so back we went into the weather.  By the time we were finished it was time to make one last visit to the room and gather our stuff so we would be good to go.

Ian fetched us with the van and off we went.  It is about a half hour or more to the airport. When we got there, there were more hugs curbside and then porters took our bags to the check in counter for us.  Everyone else was on South African Air but we went to British Air.  Our flight was thirty minutes after the group was scheduled to leave.

Our porter took Susie and I to the BA counter and no one was in the line.  We were both very excited that the young lady offered to check our bags all the way through to Atlanta!  Yea!  We had understood that we would have to claim them in Joburg and go through the check in hassle again.  So tired of feeling like a pack mule. With other tour companies I have traveled once you arrive you do not touch your bags again!  Since I keep my electronics and souvenirs, and until today any medications and first aid, with me in my backpack, that is a heavy load.  My personal bag has my passport, money, tablet, a book, aspirin, cameras etc.  Also a growing weight.

As we approached the security line, a gentleman opened a new gate and ushered us right through to a waiting line.  No problem, no waiting, no hassle.  IS this to become a magical ride?

We found our gate, A8, after stopping in the Duty Free Shop to buy Amurula, and settled in for the two hour wait.  OAT is super cautious with airport time.  After we had checked out the nearby rest room, a few shops, and were reading, we noticed the other group had arrived at Gate A7.  They were delayed mainly by visiting the booth to reclaim the VAT taxes on their purchases.  Susie and I did not buy things that qualified for that.

Vitalis spotted us and came over to say good bye and to chat.  Soon Bonnie, Linda, Fred, Kay, and Bud joined us.  What fun and how nice to know that we will be missed by so many.  And we will miss them.  When their flight was called we all again hugged and they left.  Although their plane was still there when we boarded for our flight.  They were apparently delayed by the fact that there were not available gates in Johannesburg, as we were also delayed about 20 minutes.

Our Delta flight was totally full.  Unlike those on South African Air who have to stop in Dakar for refueling and then in Dulles to go through customs and catch their domestic flights after being already on the plane for close to 20 hours, our flight was a non-stop 16 hour trip to Atlanta.  Sixteen hours is the longest flight any aircraft can make without refueling.

So non-stop was the good thing.  The bad thing is that it was cloudy dark when we took off and quickly was actually night time since our flight left at 8:10 (actual time was 8:19). And we chased the sun for more than fifteen hours and never caught it.  It reminded me of those nights when you have trouble sleeping and keep waking up or keep checking the clock to find out that only ten or twenty minutes have passed.  Those nights of distress that seem endless and as though dawn will never come.  Our flight was an endless night!

Dinner was served about two hours into the flight and I chose some sort of beef and potatoes that actually taste pretty good.  I took my Tylenol PM shortly after that but never did really fall asleep despite being by the window where I tried to make a nest like comfortable spot. Susie read in the aisle seat.  A very tall man flying to a new consulting job in Bermuda watched movies and slept soundly between us.  His long legs bent to my side and his long arms taking up the arm rest completely.  I only disturbed him a few times for a trip to the lavatory and to stretch my legs. 

I guess I should change my choices to aisle for these long flights.  But if I do that I miss the excitement of seeing the approaching coastlines and fairy lights of the cities.  And this flight was no different.  After taking more Tylenol at about one, I dozed on and off for an hour until at about two a flashlight shone in my eyes.  The flight attendant was checking the seat numbers in order to hand out the special diet snacks.  Our snack was brought to us about 2:00.  A bag of cheese crackers, a cookie and a banana.  We also had a drink option and I chose my usual hot tea.

While flying I was writing to catch up on this blog.  Some of those updates were posted this morning.

Lights were switched on, warm disposable towelettes were passed out and breakfast was served at 4:30 a.m., some 30 hours after we were first awakened in Cape Town. Luckily they did not run out of Apple Crepes which were actually quite good.  Pretty sure an omelet would not have sat well with me.

Soon I could see the coast of South Carolina at Georgia.  Hilton Head Island was distinguishable in the deep pre-dawn darkness.  Lights surrounding the darkness of lawns and trees.  Golf courses only distinguishable by the slight glow of the white sand traps in neat organization.

I blocked as much of the cabin light as possible to watch with an amazement that never ends for me as we flew over vast open land and twinkling tiny towns.  Atlanta approached and the blue-white light of the homes and stores sparkled beneath.  The amber of traditional street lamps outlined roads and subdivisions.  The headlights of moving vehicles working their way toward the big city in the pre-rush hour rush moved rhythmically below us.  Then the city itself magically appeared.  I recognized the highways already busy and the buildings lighted to please and represent wealth and power.  Then the airport.

We arrived about a half hour early which meant we were at least 30 minutes ahead of those who had left two hours before us to Dulles. But everyone has long said that Customs in Atlanta is a pain.  This time was different.  On board they said US passengers proceed to the kiosks while those traveling on Visas go to the lines.  So I dutifully went to the first kiosks I saw and tried to process my entry.  Just as I realized that I was in the wrong place, Susie came back to point out that these kiosks were for the TSA Pre-Approved passengers. 

We entered the correct line but Susie had been looking for a rest room.  I asked the person managing the line if there was somewhere that she could use and then rejoin me in the line.  She left her backpack with me and he took her off.  She soon returned before I had gone far.

By the time we got to the end of the line they had changed shifts and restarted using the 40 or so kiosks.  You slide in your passport, check the info, answer the questions and take your picture.  I had to stand on my tiptoes to be seen in the photo window.  The machine spits out a receipt and you then enter the second line.  At the end of this you present your passport as always and show your receipt to the attending officer.  He matches the receipt photo to your passport picture and your actual face.

After being cleared and stamped for re-entry, the next stop was baggage claim.  My bag was just passing and Susie grabbed it.  Hers quickly arrived also.  Now for line three.  Present your receipt to the waiting official and you are free at last.  You come out of baggage claim right at the exit of Terminal F.

I had texted Katie from the plane that we had landed.  We went outside, across the taxi line, to the passenger pick up and found a bench.  I called Katie who was on her way.  It took her a few extra minutes to make it all the way to the International Terminal which is not at the same exit as the rest of the airport.  I had thought that is where she always met Dave when he returned from Afghanistan but turns out he would use the shuttle to return to the Red Parking rooftop.  I was glad though not to have to schlep my bags onto a shuttle bus to do that.  Our airport is three years old but the train does not return from International to Domestic.  A tiny little fifteen passenger shuttle does that.  Not convenient considering how many people pass through Hartsfield – Jackson International every day!

Katie took us to Christine’s where she was racing out the door for carpool number two of the day.  Susie and I loaded up my car with our bags and my Skeeter for the 25 minute drive to good old Echo Mill.  A hug in her driveway and the attempt to return to normal life began.

Stellenbosch

The rain this morning is torrential.  Steady and creating havoc for the vendors setting up across from our front door. Driving conditions are the worst we have seen and the rush hour traffic extends well into the morning as we drive out to the countryside.  Cape Town is a sort of a comma shape or half circle of a city nestled between the sheer heights of the Table Top Mountain range and the rough Atlantic waters.  There is no ‘cross town traffic.’

Today is our last full day in the city and of our trip.  Bonnie, Fred, Linda, and Colleen have a driver to take them whale watching in Hermanos.  The rest of us head out to what, even through the rain spotted windows, can be seen to be beautiful countryside.  The city soon gives way to townships, light industry, the largest mall in Africa (400 stores), and newer, modern township homes for which the government has a wait list, and private residences.  This suddenly becomes countryside as we head East to Wine Country.  

Cattle dot the Springtime greening grasses and Calla Lilies clump as random weeds in the fields.  The road side flat land reaches to the far horizon as though it is a chiffon blouse that is too big.  It rolls, and pleats, and raises up into hills and then a mountain backdrop.  We see tobacco, vegetables, and orchards begin and then grow in size. Soon the bush grapes can be seen drawing low straight lines across the fields and up the mountain sides. Bush grapes are kept low and full to improve the sugar of the grape to the wineries specifications. 

Traditional grape vines appear as we turn off the highway and drive past goat and dairy farms.  Our first stop is the Fairview Winery.  Goats Do Roam and Goatfather wines are two of their tongue in cheek varieties. There is a goat tower but the animals are hiding inside of it to avoid the rain.  We are here for a Master Tasting and are escorted to a large room with broad windows and a massive fireplace.  Above the mantle a large gilt framed, flat screen displays ever changing pictures of beautiful local scenes.  I like the idea.  From my side of the heavy oak table I look out to what would be a lovely view of the vineyard but it is obstructed by thick plastic creating a temporary shelter for the outdoor seating.  Behind me are massive two story tall stainless steel tanks that we learn have various planks of wood suspended in them to flavor the wines.  

Our hostess, Denise, has placed before each of us two stemmed glasses and a narrow boat tray with eight cheese samples. We will be tasting eight wines and since they will range upwards from lightest to heaviest only two glasses are needed – one for whites and one for reds.  The cheeses are either goat or cows milk samples and one is a mix. Some are dusted with things like dill and herbs and others are infused with sweet chilies or cranberries.  We taste a wine, bite a cheese and taste again and see how the tastes differ.  Even I can tell.

We are anxious to work our way to the Pinotage.  Grown only here in South Africa since 1925, the grape takes the delicacy of a Pinot Noir and grafts it with the heartiness of a Hermitage grape.  The unique taste is smooth and inviting.

The next place we stop is the Leopards Leap Winery..  Here we try six wines while seated at the modern wine bar.  We get to choose individually what we would like to try and everyone has a different favorite.  We spend some time enjoying the roaring fire and browsing books from the slightly askew bookshelves. The rain falls harder so we sit longer.

 

Since we have now tried fourteen wines and lunch is approaching, we stop in Franschhoek.  This town of broad parks and bright white shops is called after the French who settled here - French Corner.  It would be so nice to spend time wandering the touristy village but no one wants to catch their death of cold at this late stage of the game.  We decide on a light lunch and go to a creperie.  The small but delightful The Famous Franschhoek Pancake House is our choice. The very gay, and quirky host chats us up constantly.  First explaining that his crepes are a cross between an omelet and a pancake.  After we order he gives us his life story of how he came to be in this place and make these delicious treats.  Mine is layered with thick and crunchy cinnamon sugar and topped with a warm lemon cream. Iva has lamb in hers and everyone has chosen something different.

We noticed Kay outside at one point, sheltered by the overhang of the promenade, taking pictures so we have a few since we will all be sharing.

Our host then gives us a ‘reading’ based on our birth dates and has us sample his new specialty – French Ice Cream.  Made with a thick custard base it is more like homemade than many.  Steve likes the berry one so much he buys a cup of it.  I resist although a cone sounds like a good idea until I look out the cloudy window where once again the rain is pouring.

We do walk along outside under the cover of the overhang and check out a couple of chocolate shops.  Susie is so funny.  After getting a couple of pieces of premium candy she holds out her hand with the last of her remaining Rand coins and asks in a little girl voice, “Is this enough to get another piece.”  It is not.  Mindy adds her last few coins and the lady laughs and gives them each another Amarula Cream.

When we are back in the van we stop at the prison where Nelson Mandela spent the last of his term.  He had been moved to the warden’s house here and his guards became more like servants.  Mandela was receiving so many guests and dignitaries that they moved him away from the city to try to hide that idea from the public.

At Tokara, a Stellenbosch Winery, we sampled six more wines of our choice and some olive oils.  At each place everyone except Bud found at least one that they liked.  Iva bought a Pinotage at Fairview and something else here for Linda to take to her son.  Again a fire roared.  Again we dodged the downpours.  Tokara is a sort of hobby winery for the gentleman that owns Cartier among other things.  The wine tastings are free and the college students love that!  For a total of $8.50 we have sampled 20 of the best of three vintners each of whom has vineyards scattered across the valley and up the mountain sides to take advantage of differences in soil and microclimates.

We drove around the campus of Stellenbosch University, Ian’s alma mater.  The white classic buildings are ‘hostels’ for the students and the modern classroom structures give the town quite a lovely English or Ivy League college town feel.  We paused in front of Ernie Els Restaurant and also at an ancient German wine press.  We saw Oryx in the field.

We passed more townships on the way back to town and Ian continued to try to make us understand how these are a good solution.  But poverty is hard to climb out of and there really isn’t much future for these millions of people. 

Overall, Ian has shared a lot with us, about the country, government, his personal life, and the way of life of the people of Cape Town.  Salaries are low and those who make 320R a month get the new government housing.  Since there is currently about a ten to one exchange rate that means that some working people earn about $32 a month.  A grape harvester might earn 110R or $11 a day. Goods and services are not expensive by our standard but because of the low wages many things can be out of reach for the average resident of Cape Town.

We had agreed at breakfast that at 6:30 tonight we would meet for dinner.  A lot of this trip seems to be focused on what to eat when! We are treating Vitalis tonight. Linda had gotten a recommendation from their guide. The Whale Watching group also had a great day and some sunshine.  They did watch whales and also stopped at a Cheetah rescue to pet the beautiful cats.  Ironically Linda also bought two bottles of wine for her son.

We get two cabs to head through the rain to the Victoria and Albert Wharf.  Kay, Susie and I climb over the lowered backs of the second seat and squeeze into the third row.  Knees to our chins and hip by jowl we ride to the wharf.  When we get there Colleen and Bonnie get out of the car and slam the doors and start to walk away.  Bonnie realized that they had left us trapped in the far back and laughingly rescues us.

The restaurant that had been recommended, Quay 4, is closed for remodeling.  So Vitalis checks out the Ferrymans Pub and leads us there.  It is delightful!  We climb the steep thick planks of the stairway and cross to a warming fire place.  Vitalis and I order the half order of ribs.  When the heavy white ceramic plate arrives it is what looks more like the full order and then some.  Everyone makes different choices.  Susie and Bonnie share Spanakopita and a cheeseburger.   No one has any room for dessert.

This is definitely our last “OATmeal.”  We relive some of the great things we have seen and done and plan for the reunion!

We finally leave and have the doorman of the Victoria and Albert hotel call us two cabs.  We ride in the same groups but this time have Bonnie and Colleen, over her protest, ride in the back.  Somehow Susie once again ends up there.  We laughingly encourage the driver to speed up over the speed bumps to give them a more enjoyable experience.  Poor Susie!  When we arrive at the hotel Kay and I get out of the back seat, look over the top of the car and say, “Ready!” Slam!  In perfect harmony.

Of course we do let them out right away and everyone lingers over good nights.  

Mindy and Steve had not gone with us as they have to be out the door at 5:30 a.m. because they are adding an independent safari as the conclusion of their journey.  They had met us in the lobby as we left for dinner and everyone had jugged goodbye with promises to keep in touch.

Back in our room, 113, Susie and I had packed between the winery tour and dinner so we just showered and read and went to sleep.  Tomorrow is a long travel day!