The Jews in Prague had been through several eras of persecution and were limited in where they could live and what jobs they could have prior to the start of the War. But as much as Christians didn't want them around they needed them because they had money to support the drams of the King and of ordinary businessmen. You remember Shakespeare's Shylock? It was a love/hate relationship.
In 1938 the Munich Agreement gave Hitler Czech lands including Prague and the Jews were then confined to the ghetto. The synagogues were saved from destruction because they were to keep all the evidence of what was to become 'the extinct race.' When Jews were being sent to resettlement camps they took their most valuable and useful things with them thinking they would be starting a new life in a different place. Of course all of these things were taken from them as soon as they arrived to what were actually work or extermination camps. These items were sorted and stored to be shown in Hitler's dream of a Museum of the Extinct Race.
Our first stop was to see the exterior construction of the Old New Synagogue and across from it a Hebrew clock. The clock even runs backwards as those who read Hebrew would read.
This obviously rich Jewish home later was an office for the Gestapo.
This surprising mosaic is found within what became part of the ghetto
as the wealthier streets of the city were where the Jews lived in many cases.
Architecture in Prague is beautiful and as the city was not bombed it is original.
Hitler wanted the Golden City to be a jewel in his crown of glory.
There are not many Jews in Prague any more, there are only about 3,900 in all of the Czech Republic.
This is one of the few Kosher Restaurants.
We continued walking through the Quarter with our very knowledgeable guide who kept up a running commentary on the history of the Jews in Prague and in the Czech nation under any of its names. Our next stop was at the Staronova Synagogue. Because it was Sunday we had more acessibility to the places. And the Staronova is also used for concerts as are most of the synagogues, churches and cathedrals.
On all the walls, from floor to the top of the arches, are inscribed the names of the lost generation.
Detail of the windows. I believe they are typical of synagogue of a newer order.
There was also a display of children's art drawn while in the camps.
Through the window we could see the start of the famous Jewish Cemetery of Prague.
Also buried here is Mordecai Mosel who was the Mayor of the ghetto during Rudolph the Second's reign. David Gans is the author of the most detailed history of the Jews. But there are also tombstones brought from other cemeteries as early as 1866.
We doubled back to the Old New Synagogue which by now had opened Below is a picture of one of two small booths in the main entrance. They are actually the cash boxes for when people want special prayers. each was approximately the size of a port-a-potty!
The wrought iron bimah, the place from which the Torah is read, stood in the center of this
tiny building surrounded by 'stalls' with lecterns and a
locked drawer to hold the book so the people could follow along
The Arc holding the Torah was behind a tapestry
with the royal symbol of Poland embroidered in gold.
We walked along to another Spanish Synagogue and passed a clever statue
of one of Warsaw's favorite sons, Franz Kafka. It was based on his book
Metamorphosis.
This synagogue had an altar instead of a bimah and the
Torah was in something very similar to a Christian tabernacle.
The Moorish influence can be seen in much of the decor because when it was built royalty and all the people were fascinated by everything from Spain, Morocco and parts of North Africa.
Colorful stained glass is unusual in houses of Jewish prayer.
You can see the Stars of David worked into the design.
Something else unusual is to have an organ and hymns. There was no one in the congregation that could play the music so even Chopin once was organist here.
Upstairs the balcony was open because men and women were allowed to sit together for services. Here was a large collection of valuable silver and gold religious items that had been confiscated and recovered. Above are scroll handles for Torahs.
When we were finished our tour we opted to not take the bus back to the hotel but to walk over to Wenceslaus Square. Ross and Tracie came along. We cut through the Market Square near the Charles Bridge and entered the longest 'square' of the city. I will add some photos for you later as I think I took them on my phone and it is late and I am tired after a crazy busy day today. I will leave you with this one last photo on my camera card and start with the new one tomorrow.
Leaving the square behind us, and also the many friends from our tour that we randomly bumped into, we took a long cut through the park and came to the Sbatreni statue commemorating the liberation of Prague. A grateful resistance fighter greets a soldier of the Red Army with lilacs and a brotherly kiss!
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