Chateau Visit, Chateau Viewing, Tours Tour!

This morning dawned bright and clear and we set our early to be among the first to arrive at Le Château de Chenonceau.  When we arrived there were only a couple of other buses and a few cars.  France is having their nationwide two week Easter break so places have been crowded and we wanted to have a good look at the small rooms of this 'lady's chateau'.  Unlike yesterday's visit to Chambord which  was over the top in size and decoration a lady's chateau is smaller and more tastefully, according to the times, decorated.  A King's chateau is to show his power and strength.  A lady's is to show her refinement and skills at pleasing the men in her life.

This particular chateau is know as the House of Three Ladies. It was given to his mistress by Henry II of France, Diane de Poitiers, in the early 16th century.  She modified it from a hunting lodge or country house into her place to rendezvous with her lover.  She commissioned the construction of the arched bridge and oversaw the planting and design of the extensive gardens.  She was his true love.

When Henry died his widow, Catherine de Medici forced the mistress to swap chateaus with her.  Henry had always been happiest at Diane's and so Catherine wanted to cherish his memory there.  Catherine was then Regent of France and spent fortunes on the chateau.  gala parties and night time exhibitions of fireworks became common entertainments.  As our guide, Carmen, keeps reminding us, they did not have television so had to do something!

Cathrine enclosed the delicate bridge and it became the ballroom.




The chapel is large and ornately decorated for place of worship in a private home.  Below is only one of the sets of stained glass windows.

This well know Virgin with the Blue Veil hangs on one of the chapel walls.  Above and to the left is the balcony where the princesses could be a part of the daily Mass without moving more than a few feet from the large bed they shared.  They were lazy and would immediately return to its warmth at the last Amen!

There were a great many pieces of fine art hanging on almost every wall.  It was all original which is often not the case due to age, greed, and the destruction of so many conflicts and wars.  In one room there even was a Peter Paul Reubans with his typical cherubic figures.  What a total surprise, and still in its original frame as well.

After Catherine's death the chateaus passed to Louise de Lorraine, her daughter-in-law.  When the luckless Louise's beloved husband, Henry III was assassinated she dressed in mourning the rest of her days.  She also removed or covered the beauty of the house and hang black tapestries on all the walls.

Louise Dupin became the proud owner  in 1733. Her literary salon at Chenonceau was frequented by the likes of Voltaire, Rousseau, and Marivaux.  She saved the petite castle during the French Revolution because she claimed it was 'essential' for commerce  since it was the only bridge across the Cher for many miles!

Marguerite Pelouze bought the chateau in 1875.  Chateaus were easy to acquire as most owners could not afford to maintain them.  They were happy to unload them on unsuspecting buyers.  She had it almost completely restored to the Medici period when her money totally ran out.  It was seized and sold for taxes.

In 1891 a Cuban millionaire was the first man to own it since Henry II first gave it to Diane de Poitier. During World War I it became a military hospital.  World War II saw it bombed by the Germans in 1940.  As if that was not enough, the river flooded and caused extensive damage. The owners helped people escape to free France be hiding them in the chateau and then taking across the enclosed bridge.  One side of the river was German occupied and the other was not.  In 1944 the palace was bombed by the allies.

"In 1951, the Menier family entrusted the Château's restoration to Bernard Voisin, who brought the dilapidated structure and the gardens back to a reflection of its former glory.^"

 Leaded glass windows make any view enchanting.

 The rooms were fully furnished and in this tiny sun room this Crown of Thorns arrangement of fresh flowers from the garden was particularly stunning.  The 'basket' was filled with egg shells of different sizes and topped by tiny brown quail eggs.  I think the addition of sea oats gives the flowers a sobering but graceful downward focus.

 This is just the hallway to the exit!

 Grapevine, ostrich eggs, bare branches about to leaf out, and fresh flowers give needed height and solidness to the stunning arrangement in a long, tall hallway.  The arrangements in every space were Easter and Spring themed.

 The lazy princesses bed that three of them shared.

 My favorite display featured slim, sharp cornered, white vases with tiny birds perched on them.  I was hoping they would be for sale in the gift shop.  

But they were not to be the gift I brought home for my girls.

 One display included this clever 'natural' hedgehogs.

After leaving Chenonceau we had a short motor coach ride to Amboise.   Here the chateau viewing had to be delayed because it was lunch time and weary, early rising tourists are not to be kept from refueling.  Elva, Bill, and Barbara and I ate at this Patisserie.  But being well behaved adults they all had Quiche Lorraine and I had a delicate, french pastry filled with 'Jambon and Gruyere.'

 After lunch Elva and I previewed the Chateau d'Amboise.  I love lilacs and they do not grow in the South. When I was in France a couple of years ago in April Ruth and I had dreary weather and so they were not blooming then either.  So I am enjoying these even more so.

 We had eaten our delicious lunch so had no room for this clever cone.  I which we had tried it.

 We crossed the river for a great view of the chateaus and found a great view of a great man as well!

 Some part of his anatomy was particularly shiny so I had to sit on his lap!  Although everyone laughed at first, all the ladies and many  of the men followed suit, but not as tamely as I did.

Our next stop on the way back to the beautiful Chateau Belmont Hotel and Spa was for our tour of Tours.  By now my head was pretty full and I am sure you can find lots of information if you ask my Uncle Google or Auntie Wiki.  But Tours is a lovely place with half timbered houses still preserved and is a bustling university town as well.

  But like most of France seems to be, Tours is under reconstruction and renovation.  Carmen was surprised a couple of times, this is her first tour of the season, by closed roads and dusty construction.   The first construction redirection of our tour was at the old St. Martin's Church.

 The Church of St. Martin extended from the distant tower to the one we are standing by, and beyond behind us.  It was destroyed during the War.  By the time funds had been raised there was street running through the old site so the new Basilica was built nearby and smaller although it does have two domes.

 We entered the church but since it is Good Friday services were being held and we could not move around it much and could not gain access to the crypt.  As in all Catholic churches, like this, and most Christian churches noon to 3 on this day is always very solemn and prayerful.  Although France is a Catholic country there is only a small percentage that are practicing so the church was far from full.  Nuns were singing with beautifully sweet voices and old French hymn.

 

 The legend of St. Martin is that he shared his cloak with a beggar and so he is always depicted as tearing the coat and handing it down from his horse.  He was a soldier and was not at first accepted by the hierarchy but became a priest and pastor at the demand of the people.

 The inscription on the well says, "The well is not too deep, the rope is too short."  

Eloquently thoughtful for this university town.

 I think the top apartment overlooking the busy square would be delightful!

 

 A whole between the pavement and the basement has been put to good use to feed the cats that apparently keep the small restaurant rat free.

 Not in great focus, but I snapped this gleeful little girl as she ran merrily through the courtyard of the new art gallery!

 In keeping with the modern art theme of the converted convent, the door bars are at a jaunty angle.

 

Immediately recognizing a Calder when I see one, I wondered if he is still alive? 

 Rabelais has a smile on his chiseled face as he oversees the town of students and artists.

 This monument is new and recently installed to commemorate the 'Sammies.'  

The soldiers of Uncle Sam's army during World War I liberated Tours.   

It stands adjacent to the Wilson Bridge..

 We drove to the cathedral but Stations of the Cross were being offered so we headed back past the old city gates, seen below, where tax collectors accosted all who came and went. 

 We went home.  After a repeat of yesterday's harrowing bus turns on the narrow lanes of Tours we were safely back to our room.  Elva and I went to the pool house but since there was no hot tub she enjoyed the warmth of the area while I swam.  After she returned to get her book and go to the main guest house, I tried out the wonderful hamman, Middle eastern for steam room, and the sauna.  After a shower I took my book to the solarium and joined Elva.  Soon Cathy and Cindy joined us in the pleasant space.  The wine tasting had been cancelled so while I drank water the ladies enjoyed a glass of local wine and bar snacks of cakes, chocolates (Elva shared with me) as well as petite finger sandwiches and olives.

What a great day.  It was a real 'tour' de force of enrichment and pleasure.