We disembarked in the heart of Kazimierz, it used to be sort of on the outskirts but now is well within the city center. It was a separate town separated from Krakow by the Vistula River. This actually helped to establish the ghetto borders in 1941. The river was one and the hills on the opposite side of the town was the other. Artificial boundaries closed the other ends off from freedom.
We toured the Jewish quarter extensively by coach and by foot. The story is, of course one you surely know. Walking in the footsteps of those who one day were happily going about their business and a few days later herded into a square and told that now this is how you must live was thought provoking. To see then the place from where they march for miles to their own deaths is stunning.
Here are a few pictures. I took a lot on my phone which I will need to add in later as everything is packed at the moment for us to move on.
The New Synagogue with separate entrances for men and women. Men are required to attend, women are allowed to go to the synagogue if their time and husband or father permits.
A memorial for the slain.
This restaurant was once the home of Helena Rubenstein who it turns out has a very interesting story. Her husband had an affair with Estee Lauder so Helena left him and became someone who, at one time, was the richest woman in the world other than the Queen of England!
There were no bodies to bury once the Jews from Krakow were 100% deported. This is a memorial park with ashes of some whose bones were found. Note the fence.
The iron is worked to be like Menorahs.
One interesting story was of a pharmacist who was Christian and in good standing with the police and army. When the ghetto was closed off, overnight, he asked to stay in his home and store and was granted permission. He could also come and go and was then able to help some escape by various methods. For example by clinging to the back or side of a tram as it passed through, they did not stop in the ghetto. He would have bribed a guard to turn a blind eye at night.
While living here in the ghetto, before the extermination, the healthy Jews were escorted to factory jobs every day. At least 1,000 walked the 3 miles to Schindler's factory. They would work up to 14 hours a day and then march 'home' under armed guard. You know the rest of the story. What you may not know is that his home, which was on the same block as our hotel, is unmarked with any plaque. The people here did not think of him as a hero because he made money off the war as did all good and industrious Germans. Schindler did not openly help the Jews or protest so he has only now begun to get recognition in Krakow for his heroism.
Schindler's Factorum - because of construction we could only pass by it and see it from a distance. There is now a museum inside. So, maybe next time.
I took this photo from the opposite side of the bus. I wished we had stopped there.
In this square are seventy empty chairs facing in different directions.
Each chair represents 1,000 Jews removed from Krakow and slaughtered.
70,000 from one city.
We continued our tour at the Wawel Castle. Castles, you may not know, are fortifications and may or may not have palaces inside. Palaces are residences. Castles have within their wall all the means of support for a palace.
Notice the staggered placement of this small 'rooms.' They were indeed rooms, these are the toilets which is why they are not directly above or below each other. Clever planning since the castle stood directly on the edge of the river and the waste fell through the open holes at the bottom on which people sat or stood over! My suggestion is don't swim by the castle, kids!
The gold dome is the roof of the renaissance chapel built because the queen was Italian and liked the style. The king liked the finished project and rebuilt the whole castle in the same style. This chapel was actually a cathedral for then Cardinal Karol Józef Wojtyła, It as amazing inside. Although he is not buried here, but at the Vatican with the other Popes, there is a floor marker that is like a tombstone and under a small side chapel with his photo at the altar.
And like everywhere around this city, a statue of their beloved 'Pope John Paul II, We Love You!'
In the distance the first church of Karol Józef Wojtyła who later became Pope John Paul II. He is really beloved in this city, which is not his home town but was his favorite place to be.
Within the castle walls.
The Archbishop Residence and John Paul II museum.
Honestly, I have forgotten why I have this building pictured
except that I liked the way it looked at the time!
Our tour continued tot he town center and then Elva and I headed back to the hotel so that we could rest our footsies before the afternoon tour for which we had signed up!
We passed through a lovely park that follows the path of the old city walls.
Teachers had the children running as fast as they could back and forth between them.
Giggles and shouts of pure joy reminded us that children are the same world over!
At 2:00 we went to work in the salt mines. Oops, I mean we went to walk in the "Wieliczka" Salt Mine. Since the early 13th century the mine was in continuous operation until 2007. Salt was wealth to Kings and commoners alike. It is why to this day you speak of someone being 'worth his salt', you get an annual salary because in the past salt was payment for your work. If you salt your stock portfolio or your company books you are adding wealth, of course illegally in these cases.
We took a one minute elevator cage down to the highest level at 250 feet below ground and following paths of wood or the rock salt floor itself mad our way another 200 feet down to the bottom of the mine. Along the way there were steps where we had to climb to reach a passable space. We took the tourist route but now the mine makes its money mostly from those who want that mild adventure. There are more adventurous routes that follow the miners footsteps for those who want something more rigorous or family adventures a little less strenuous for the young ones.
We heard the stories of mine flooding and there are three lakes, one natural and two man made inside. There was an eerie light show at one of these. This showcased the 800 step climb we were warned about. The draw for the mine is the sculptures, and the chapels, one of wood and one of salt. The first scene highlighted the legend of Kinga and how the mine was discovered.
The Legend of Kinga
Oh, and one more thing....for a week we lived in fear of the 800 stair climb to leave. Good news, the elevator goes all the way to the bottom! Two minutes in a cage and fresh air and sunlight and our comfy motor coach awaited us!
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