Saturday, November 24, 2012

Friday, November 24 ---Cuzco

Today we had a relaxing start which was excellent after the train torture of yesterday.  Our meeting time was for 10 am.  I happened to wake up early and had breakfast at 5:30 and enjoyed the hotel lobby by myself until almost six when another couple from our group came to sit with me.  When the dining tables were filling up the waiter opened the bar and gave me a table and chair there so I could continue online and it was great.  Very quiet so I was able to catch up a little here.

Madeline stayed at the hotel for a 'me day' and I joined the others for a walking tour.  Our hotel is nicely situated just a couple of blocks from the historic center of the city.  We saw the Inca ruins that were long covered up by a Dominican monastery which partially collapsed in the 1950 earthquake.  The ancient treasure was discovered then and the Dominicans were then required to open their doors to the public to share this lost heritage.

The carved stones were fit together perfectly without mortar and withstood the damage of even the earthquake except for the Temple of the Sun.  It has one long crack which is blamed on the weight of the church built above it.  The Incas used a system of fitting the stones tightly together with some being grooved out so others could be cut oppositely with extensions to fit in the grooves. The lintels were rounded to give more support.  The Temple of the Sun was open to the sky so that built in projections would cast shadows foretelling the dry or rainy season. It has windows in which at the solstices the sun would perfectly project onto the opposite wall.  On one June 21 it rained and stormed and no shadows were cast so sacrifices of llamas and other animals and gifts of fruit and baskets of bread were brought to the altar set between the windows to appease the angry God of the Sun.  The rains stopped and even to this day there is a festival of the Sun with a big feast.  The  Inca people celebrate with dancing and parades to thank the Sun God for blessing them

We visited the cathedral which was ornately decorated with the gold and silver the Spanish stole from the Incas at the time of the conquest. The altars are solid silver and the paintings depict biblical figures in Inca style.  The Madonnas have long, soft, black hair which is the pride of the Inca woman and the men are in colorful Peruvian garb.

One of the paintings is of The Last Supper.  This is always a popular depiction in Christian and especially Catholic churches.  The Cuzco Last Supper, by Marcos Zapata (1753)  is a unique blending of European religion and native culture.  On the plate in front of Jesus as he blesses the bread is the traditional Peruvian delicacy of roast guinea pig!  Known as 'cuy' the guinea pig is a traditional Inca sacrificial animal.

Some of our group followed up the tour with lunch at a restaurant where cuy is the featured dish.  They said it tasted a lot like duck.  It is served roasted whoIe and the platter is decorated with vegetables and fruits.  I, however, enjoyed lunch with Madeline, Carolyn, and Carol in the hotel dining area of the lobby.

After lunch we joined those who went to the Alpaca factory.  No they don't make alpacas here but do create beautiful clothing with the very soft wool.  We learned how they shear it, and we also learned how to tell the differences between the various types: baby alpaca, second alpaca, and  maybe alpaca.  Maybe is, of course, the cheapest as it is synthetic.  Many of the group bought sweaters or scarves for themselves or to take home as gifts.

Back at the hotel it was time to repack for the journey to Lima before heading out for an evening stroll through the beautiful lighted central square which was full of people enjoying the spring evening.  There was a wedding at the cathedral and the cars out front were decorated.  High above the city is a lighted statue of Jesus Risen. It would have been fun to sit and watch awhile but we were walking to a farewell dinner with local entertainment.

The buffet was served after our toast with Pisco Sours.  We had dinner with Mike and Ursula and compared notes on our day.  Back at the hotel we all visited awhile.  Craig came to our room for help with moving his books from his broken Kindle to his iPad by way of my tablet.  I listened to Wait, Wait Don't Tell Me while I soaked in the deep tub and relaxed.

Highlight of the day for me was while walking to dinner a little boy tried to have me buy  a llama key chain.  This child selling/begging is continuous and no is my usual answer.  But this child of about 9 walked along and asked where I was from.  I said America and he began a recitation...America, USA, Capital is Washington D.C., President is Barack Obama, before him was George Bush the son, before him....and went all the way back to Nixon.  First President was George Washington, Ben Franklin discovered electricity.  He went on and on and so I stopped and told him how smart and cute he was and that he should keep studying in school.  I then gave him a dollar and told him that I did not want the key chain but that he deserved a reward.

It is Saturday morning at 7:00 am and I am going to have breakfast and start on the next part of my adventure.

Friday, November 23, 2012

Thanksgiving Day---November 22

After a nice buffet dinner last night at a nearby restaurant I took a very hot shower at our lovely Inti Inn and read myself to sleep early while a band played Peruvian flutes beneath my window.  The alarm was set for 5:30 am. Breakfast was served in a tiny basement cafe of the Inn and featured the usual combination of European breakfast foods like ham, cheese, hard rolls and yogurt.  There was also the Peruvian staple of quinoa and good old American favorites of made to order omelets, toast, and jam.  And to drink coffee essence to which you add a lot of hot water and hot milk or more Coca tea.  I wonder if I can get through the airport with that?  It is a constant offering at all times of the day and night.

We set out for the ruins of the Historic Sanctuary of Machu Pichu at 7:00 am with the fog shrouding the mountains and the  mist dampening our faces. We found that kidney killing half hour ride up the dozens of switchbacks on the dirt road got us to the Parque Nacional early enough that the lines were not too long and late enough to miss long lines of people who had gone to see the sunrise.  I was glad we did not do that considering that the fog was thick.

Mitchell, whose roommate Marshall had stayed back at the hotel, and I set out on our own to explore the lower ruins.  We tried to avoid long, steep, uneven staircases as our legs still ached from the strenuous exercise of the day before.  We found more of the same homes and meeting halls and explored different views of the mountains and the valley far below.  We threaded the needle, found 'furniture' of granite tables and chairs, niches for family altars and alpaca grazing on the ancient Incan terraces.

One of my fellow travelers mentioned an old film that I was not familiar with but might be fun to watch when I get home.  It is called The Secret of the Incas with Charlton Heston.  The steamy picture on poster indicates it might not be accurate but Heston spent much time here researching the project and scenes were shot on location.

I will keep trying to find ways to add photos and links for you like in the past but the system does not want to allow it right now.

Mitch and I collected up my travel friend, Madeline, where she sat at the base of the ruins with her Kindle and returned to the small base town of Aqua Caliente where he returned to the inn to join his friend Marshall for some shopping for the grandkids and Madeline and I wandered the riverside street.  She bought a tee shirt and a gift cookbook for her friend.  We joined some of the others on out tour for a snack break and then I found a beautiful courtyard garden with views of the mountains and the river. The afternoon was spent relaxing and strolling and meeting friends here and there to see what they were doing and finding.

At 2:50 were were at the train station to collect our bags that the hotel porter had brought there for us and to meet our group.  Only six of us showed up because the others had been in the restaurant when Luis found out the trains were running and hour late.  He came and said we could go back to town but we went to the waiting room and enjoyed some people watching.  Our train was beautiful and very fancy with comfortable seating and we faced across a table with sisters Theresa, from Peachtree City, and Margaret from D.C.
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The train jolted and jerked its way along the riverside taking five hours to make the three and a half hour trip to Poroy, a suburb of Cuzco.  Perurail attendants set our tables with colorful cloths and offered beer and wine for sale.  They then came with a snack of nuts, cheese, raisins and flan. After leaving some passengers at Ollantaytambo we were entertained by a Bolaroja, a flamboyantly dressed and masked clown.  Then came the fashion show of Alpaca and Vicuna ponchos, sweaters for men, scarves, jackets and coats.The lady attendant strutted her stuff up and down the aisle stopping to demonstrate different ways to wear the garment while the wild music played and the clown clapped and danced.  Our friend Carol bought a beautiful full length baby Alpaca coat that reversed from grey to red.  I am glad she did because I was so tempted to buy it myself for one of my girls.

When the long delayed train finally arrived we collected our bags and boarded the bus to the Novotel in Cuzco, but not without incident.  I tripped at the edge of the busy road we had to cross but Carolyn fell and narrowly missed being run over by one of the many buses in the tight chaos of passengers, taxis, and buses thrown off schedule by the very late arrival of the train from Machu Picchu.

A 15 minute ride through what looked to be darkened slums brought us to the edge of the city with it's yellow street lamps below. We were dropped a couple of blocks from the hotel as the old city streets are too narrow for a coach and walked uphill to a beautiful waiting hotel room, a hot bath and some sleep.






Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Please forgive my inconsistency.  I want to tell you about today, not yesterday.  Today is Wednesday, November 21.  Tomorrow is Thanksgiving Day.  I know what I am Thankful for...my life.  I am a lucky, lucky girl! Ignore the leeway I take there!

I have spent the day today in the small town of Ollantaytambo tucked high in the Andes mountains.  My first stop was at the local weekly fresh market.  Stepping gingerly over goat, sheep, donkey and miscellaneous poop, we watched ducklings being flung into cages while mothers and their small children picked out the live chicken that would be dinner.  Wiggling bags at the feet of the vendor contained either chickens or the Peruvian delicacy of guinea pig!  All would soon be on someone's dinner plate!

Mark, a young man on our tout commented to his wife Michella that these were truly organic vegetables as the many varieties of dried potato were mounded in sacks, and onions, greens and corn were in monumental stacks.  We saw that at the market were many mestizo women.  They are distinguished by the white top hats they wear everywhere every day.  The women are wealthy and respected because they are half Inca and half Spanish.  This was an amazing experience and so much better than the Pisac Market we spent time in yesterday.  It is a tourist focused place of stalls of woven goods and silver jewelry...this was Andean life.

Leaving the market we went to the Temple of the Sun.  Yes...I climbed all the way to the top.  I  made it and am so glad I did.  The Inca people were amazing builders and their economy was agricultural.  They relied on the timing of the seasons and so the Temple of the Sun and other marvels cleverly foretold the coming of the warm season and of the rainy season.  Climbing past the terraces and up 300 steps to the top I was able to see haw the stones and the windows were placed to catch the rays at the solstices perfectly.

Next we headed to the station in town for the Perurail train to Machu Picchu.  An hour and a half later we had passed river rapids, the new hydroelectric plant, an ancient Inca bridge and beautiful fields of corn and potatoes.  We saw hikers at the beginning of their four day trek on the Inca Trail up to Machu Picchu and arrived at the bustling little town.  Walking uphill to the Inti Inn to claim our room keys and leave our bags was a whirling mist of color and sound. 

After only a half hour to wash up we headed back downhill to the bus to the site.  30 bumpy minutes later we had reached our goal and entered the sacred grounds of one of the wonders of the world.  I am so glad that Karen convinced me to buy a walking stick.  With its aid I kept up with our group and climbed through this Incan city dating back to 1400 AD.  I went all the way up to the Guard House.  Our guide was great at explaining each of the amazing buildings and regaled us with stories of this ancient civilization.

We saw the kings burial tomb much like the idea of the pyramids where the wealthy were mummified and buried with their treasures for use in the next life. The Round Tower with had perfect alignment for the solstices, the Temple of Three Windows, and the  Astronomers House.  I am not able to load photos from this computer so much more will be added to this later.  I actually stood in the places the famed National Geographic photographers took their iconic pictures. 

I can't believe I have seen this wonder...and all the other wonders I have experienced this year and so I am Thankful.  Thankful for health, for a brain that is still interested in life and what is amazing in it, for children who encourage me to see the world and not wait on the sidelines.  I am thankful for a husband who worked hard for many years and cared for us and helped to make all this possible.  I know I am a lucky woman and I appreciate it.

I cannot believe that this year alone I have scuba dived for the first time, touched a pyramid, walked in the red sands of Petra, seen the world from the Kahlifa tower, been awestruck by the magnificence of the Taj Mahal, and waked in the footprints of the ancient Inca.

I wish you all and each a very happy holiday.  I will be celebrating with a return to Machu Picchu in the morning and then and trainride back to the Sacred Vallley and then a bus ride back to reality in the city of Cuzco.  God Bless you all.

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Moving Right Along

As I finally approached my gate I was glad that I had planned a long layover because I would have been panicky with the long delay experienced at the counter. I did not see Madeline at all land as it turned out when she did arrive that her flight had indeed been delayed on both ends. Luckily her wait at the counter was about half of mine. I quickly spotted two ladies who just looked like they would be in my group and as I got closer I saw the bright orange identifying tags on their luggage so we chatted and Mitch and Marshall joined Carol and Carolyn and I and then Madeline arrived shortly before our 11:59 pm take off. That was considered Tour DAY ONE!

 The flight was one of the best I have been on. The seat had plenty of space between me and the seat in front, their was no one next to me and I got really comfortable after my long day and snuggled into the very warm, large, and propped my pillow against the window to try to sleep...something I am not good at at home much less on a plane! I was glad I wasn't sleeping because they served one of the most delicious flight dinners I have ever had. I did finally try to sleep and didn't but did doze and didn't even try to watch a movie. We arrived in Lima promptly at 5:39 am and quickly moved through the almost empty luggage collection and customs process. He took us upstairs where there were familiar names and explained the boarding process for the one hour flight to Cuzco.

  While we waited we got to know the other 33 in our group. We met more of our group and everyone seems very interesting and quite diversified. Mike and Ursula are a young couple from Toronto. He is originally from New York but love changes everything. He is going to be getting his Canadian papers and will have dual citizenship. He says it is easier to travel ont he Canadian passport. Craig and Lucy are also from Toronto and their daughter is taking both the American and the Canadian Boards to be an Optometrist.

 We were met in Cuzco by Luis who is our guide while here. Cuzco is over 11,000 feet above sea level so they promptly loaded our luggage into a bus and we boarded for the two hour drive to Yucay. This area in The Sacred Valley is only 8,000 ft so we will have better luck aclimetizing. Along the way we stopped at the highest point of just over 12,000 feet to view the green valley below. This valley sacred to the Incas was not where they actually lived. They perched on the mountain sides,building terraced fields which are still in use today. They came into the valley below to meet, create their business centers, and join forces against the Spanish. And to farm the flat lands.  I did not know that in this sacred valley was the birthplace of one of the most sacred crops to the Irish...the potato.  Today there are still grown here over 800 varieties of spud brought to Europe first by the Spanish Conquistadors.

When we finally arrived at Posada Sonesta we found a beautiful former monastery which is now a comfortable and very expensive, gracious hacienda.  The spacious courtyards and lovely central garden is surrounded by big rooms with very fancy bathrooms and reclaimed wood floors if the originals were gone.  Outside our window are Alpacas grazing, and snow capped Andes!

We were welcomed with hot Coca tea and gigantic old fashioned room keys.  And boy did that room look good to me.  I was really going to enjoy my over-pillowed queen sized bed but first a welcome cocktail. I apologize for my spelling of local items because of the language barrier and my only Spanish is horticulture related.  I think the frothy, limey drink was a Pissac Sour.  everyone introduced themselves and we headed off to a delightful dinner around the stone fireplace of the hotel restaurant called the INKAFE!

The very fancy service really set off the nicely plated dishes.  I had an appetizer of brochettes of beef, chicken and alpaca.  Yes, alpaca which was quite good, light in color like pork, taste a little like beef and a little chewy.  I followed this with delicious chicken and a fruit salad.  I avoid salads of greens when you can only drink the bottled water.

I thought for sure I would crash as it had been over about 37 hours since I had first gotten out of bed Sunday morning.  I guess I was over tired because sleep did not come.  So I started writing this blog and am struggling to learn the Tablet differences.  Last night, for example I had no trouble adding pictures but have wasted a valuable hour tonight trying to show you the McDonald's and Papa John's and Dunkin Donuts at the Cuzco airport and some photos of this lovely hotel nestled in the majestic mountains.  I will try to get better but took so much time that I thave not told you about today.

It will have to wait.  I need to shower and get some sleep  tomorrow we set out ...down hill...to Machu Picchu itself.

Monday, November 19, 2012

Taking Flight...November18

The flights were fine, all of them, but the chaos at the airport in Miami was not amazing but just weird. After a quick claim stop at the baggage carousel I thought I had plenty of time to wander around the airport, maybe have dinner, and maybe even meet up with others from our tour group. I am traveling with SmarTours and it is the first time I have done this kind of a trip. Most things are included but some meals will be on our own. It was a couple of hours before I met my fellow travelers.

After collecting my bag I went to check in for my next flight and recheck my bag after customs. I found the place to check in for LAN flight 2507 to Lima, Peru and got in line. I have never been in a line like that if there wasn't a roller coaster at the end of it. No joke. The queue line wound around to the counter where it took fifteen minutes or more to process one passenger. I finally made it to the third loop of the line when an employee came through and took everyone out of the line if we were going to Lima. They wanted to ticket only the Chile flight. After about one hour and fifteen minutes of being in line to get only about half way we started over in a new line that was not allowed to enter the stanchions until 8:00! If they had told us that before I would have been happier. Once we did enter the line they held us up again because they were still working on the Chile flight.

 A great part of the problem was the enormous amount of luggage. People literally had as many as ten bags to check in...at $116 per extra case. Not for a family but per person in each family. And then of course two carry ons each. Incredible piles of stuff. A lot of the bags were green saran wrapped...$15 each...and marked as security proved baggage. I asked the young man who, after a total of two and a half hours of my waiting in line, finally checked me in about all the bags. I thought maybe people worked here and were going home for the winter. No, they come to the states to shop! The flights are relatively cheap and the prices are so significantly better that they shop for everything. So the HP boxes weren't just used to make packing easy, they were new computers! Televisions, baby equipment, and clothes and shoes galore. They fly in with the two carry on bags and buy enough suitcases as they buy the other things with which to fill them!


The security wrap was especially popular for those continuing on to Buenos Aries. Those bags would have no reason to be searched in Santiago and therefore less likely to have property stolen in the airport in either Chile or Argentina! Of course some of our neighbors to the south had been to Disney World and were lugging along giant Mickeys and Minnies as well. So, dear friends, the U.S. economy is booming in South Florida and the balance of trade is in our favor!

Saturday, November 17, 2012

Packed for Andes and Islands

It took some doing today to figure out the packing mystery all in one short afternoon. My out of town company left early this morning...that means 6 am...so at 5 am I was making coffee! It would have been good to sleep late today and try to merge my lifestyle to the late nights and early mornings that are to come.  I leave Miami just before midnight tomorrow so since I am not an airplane sleeper some pre -adjustment would have been smart.

My day continued with me babying my aching back but thankfully it is better, not great but better.  But I couldn't get much done and I sure couldn't relax with the electrician here.  It took practically all day to change over one wall switch!  I did go out and pick up one library book while he was here...I was afraid the library would close and it would have before he was through.

 So here is the test of my tablet.  It is a little tricky to keep the cursor in the right place because my resting thumb brushes the very sensitive touchpad.  But it is way easier than using an Android touch screen for word entry.  I will now try to add a link and a photo. Then I think I have to crash!

You can learn more about our first stops here.  Machu Picchu is at the beginning of the trip!

Here is a picture of Skeeter waiting to go to bed for the night.

Well this seems to be working and I think I will be able to include you in all my exciting adventures.  Next stop Miami International

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Machu Picchu and the Galapagos Islands

I am beginning this on Thursday, November 15, 2012 as I struggle to prepare for a trip very different from my usual one. This time I fly to Miami and then on to Lima, Peru and then on to Cuzco which is surely one of the highest cities in the world.  Perched atop the Andes Mountains at an elevation of 10,800 feet.  Yes that is double the height of Denver and then some.  They actually have oxygen bars there since the air is so rarefied. Our goal upon reaching this towering site is to spend two days in Machu Picchu which is the ancient Incan capital, and religious, and royal city.

I hope to be able to blog and to post and keep in touch since we will be staying in hotels and I think I will have internet.I don't have a 'bucket list' but if I did this would be on it!  When we leave the Andes we hang out on the equator and play with the tortoises and the Blue Footed Boobies in the islands.

The 17 day trip will feature nine (9) flights, six (6) hotels, and one (1) ship! Like I say, not my usual thing but I know I am a lucky person to have the freedom and ability to enjoy all the adventures on which I embark!