As soon as we docked in Limassol, Cyprus, we met our guide, Feasone. She said her name was easy to remember if you think that you must pay your “fee soon.” She was very nice and informative. Before I tell you more about our day look at the map and you will notice everything has two names. One is Greek and one is in Turkish. Occaisionally some English. It is an island divided.
Our tour was a long one and it took an hour and a half to cross the whole island to Nicosia, the capitol of Cyprus. It is the only world capitol city still politically split. Feasone spent the whole ride talking about the “Turkish invasion.”
Cyprus has a Greek heritage but was invaded by the British. “On 16 August 1960, Cyprus attained independence after the Zürich and London Agreement between the United Kingdom, Greece and Turkey. Cyprus had a total population of 573,566; of whom 442,138 (77.1%) were Greeks, 104,320 (18.2%) Turks, and 27,108 (4.7%) others.”
“In 1960 Cyprus became independent of Britain (it had been a crown colony since 1925) as the Republic of Cyprus. The long-standing conflict between the Greek Cypriot majority and the Turkish Cypriot minority and an invasion of the island by Turkish troops in 1974 produced an actual—although internationally unrecognized—partition of the island and led to the establishment in 1975 of a de facto Turkish Cypriot state in the northern third of the country. The Turkish Cypriot state made a unilateral declaration of independence in 1983 and adopted the name Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. Its independence was recognized only by Turkey.”
Cyprus has a very complicated situation with which the Cypriots must live. Feasone did not let rest the idea that she lived in “free Cyprus” and that the north was “invaded Cyprus” or “stolen Cyprus.” High up on the side of one of the mountains, facing 'free Cyprus' was painted a Turkish Cyprus flag beneath which was written, “It’s so good to be Turkish!” An in-your-face reminder to the free Cypriots that they lost the battle, and their lives were worse off for it.
However, this is not really all true. Many people in Northern Cyprus lost their homes when they fled the invasion. Those homes have now been sold by the government to others, many who use them as vacation places. We were warned if we were to pay for a house which might be sold very reasonably for fifty or seventy-five thousand dollars, we will not get a title for it because the person selling it doesn’t actually own it as the title is still in the free Cypriot’s name. And the money – the government takes it or the pseudo-owner banks it offshore and it is gone!
The towns that we drove through struck me as being very pretty and homey and very poor. The old men sat in the shade playing dominoes while the women shopped in open air market in a dusty parking lot. I am not sure what the farms nestled in the green Mesaoria Plain valley were growing. Harvest season was over. We were told they no longer have vineyards due to crop disease which our guide said was brought over from Turkey. Wine was at one time the main export. Now olives and oranges are the main export.
In the city store front windows were scrawled with messages and for rent signs. Some just looked deserted as the street was filled with trash. Many high-rise office buildings sported international businesses were present, but no people seemed to be coming or going about for any reason. No foot traffic that one usually sees in a big city. I guess I was surprised that Nicosia did not seem vibrant nor resort like.
We first stopped at the Monument to Freedom of Cyprus. It is a clever and beautiful piece located outside the old Venetian City Walls. It features people exiting from oppression and seeing the light for the first time. The statue was completed and placed but never dedicated. The representation is of two EOKA opening the doors of the prison of British rule. It has not been dedicated because it is felt that so much of Cyprus is now under the thumb of Turkey. That is , still not free.
Back on the bus we were given a homemade piece of marble pound cake. I didn’t eat mine because it is not my favorite. We stopped at the Cathedral of St. John the Theologian. It is the main church of Cyprus and the seat of the Greek Orthodox – Church of Cyprus Archbishop. This involves another convoluted Cypriot relationship which joins the Eastern and Greek Orthodox churches. The statue in front is of Archbishop Makarius III, a hero of the independence movement and the first President of the Republic of Cyprus.
Yes, I agree, this is way too much history. I add it here to help you understand what I am still not clear on. Free Cyprus allows Turkish Cypriots to freely cross the border to work and spend time whenever they want. Turkish Cyprus encourages this as there is no industry in the North. The money then goes home with them to be taxed and support what the "Free Cypriots" call "The Invaders".
We waited our turn to enter the plain building. Inside however was decorated ornately with frescoes from floor to ceiling. (No photos - This ceiling photo was the best I could do for m yself from my seat in a pew as photos were not permitted...except to pay for each one. They did not want 'flash' to damage the frescoes. All my pictures are on my phone so no disguising that. I could do it easily with my old camera. Since I did not know if I would find pictures of this relatively obscure church online i needed to show you at least one!)
After the church visit, we rode to a central area. As we exited the bus everyone was given a paper shopping bag with a snack and juice box. That is, everyone but Carol and me! We were last off the bus as we were way at the back. They ran out.
We set out to walk to the "square of the pigeons" a few blocks away. It indeed had more pigeons than I have seen gathered in a long time. This would be our meeting place after the several block walk through the square and the shopping area to the Checkpoint. Many small shops line the stone tiled street. At the end was a booth with a long line. We could have gone across to Turkish Cyprus but didn’t feel the need. And according to our guide no one knows what happens to you if you cross the line. The government or police of Free Cyprus won’t come looking to help you!
On the other side of the borderline hut, we could clearly see that the street continued on looking exactly the same. Jim wanted to walk with us as Cheryl wasn’t feeling well and stayed onboard. At first, we didn’t realize she was ill or we may not have as we were still be super COVID cautious since we have to test for the Transatlantic crossing. Nothing much to see or do. We did stop in a small store and the man moved a shelf to find Pringles. Our Steward, Joe, mentioned they were a favorite since salty snacks are to get in the crew canteen. Jim put them in his lunch bag and carried them for us the rest of the way. He also gave me a banana he didn’t eat, and someone gave a banana to Carol!
We found a bench that was not totally pigeon pooped and just chatted with different people. When the guide came back after an hour we walked back to the bus. A group of students marched past us as they had in Athens. Drums and flag. It is their daily exercise! Leftover cake was passed out at the bus which we didn’t take.
Cyprus was a surprise…or maybe it was just the dedication to anger that our guide had! It is a mountainous island. We did not see, as I had expected, beautiful beaches but did pass a high rise being built advertising an 8-bedroom penthouse for sale. Maybe it isn’t a poor place after all! Going through security to reboard the ship the man ahead of me set off the beeper. He was told to go back through it and turned around the wrong way. The lady guard began to actually yell at him about not knowing how to go through the magnetometer! Wow!
Back on board we changed for dinner, not fancy but nicer. I went to the Captain's Club Elite Cocktail Party and it was much nicer than usual. Senior Staff circulated while the duo entertained. Cocktails were your choice and the hot and cold appetizers were passed. CArol does not usually like these parties so didn't go but I told her this was different and she might want to attend on the second leg which begins in just two days!
Timing was perfect because we had six o'clock reservations at the Rooftop Garden. The weather was perfect for this out door specialty venue. We chose this evening to plan it because we had an early sail away after a short day of touring.
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