Monday, October 24th, we docked in Ashdod, the port for Jerusalem, early with the gangway in place by 7:30 a.m. Today we did not have to go through the number system to go ashore because we had scheduled a ship tour. We did have to go through a security and bag check to exit. It was the middle day of our three in Israel and the only day to have a ship tour. We wished the Viator tour for tomorrow was today, in the middle, so we wouldn’t have to worry about being back on board on time. More about that later.
Since we still had our landing cards from Haifa, we had been carefully and repeatedly warned to keep those, we joined our tour in the theater at 8 and promptly went to board our bus for the 10 1/2-hour tour. Our guide was very nice and spoke excellent English. Turned out that he was born in and lived until he was 11 in Decatur, Ga! Then one day his folks said, pack up, we are moving to Israel. He was back in the States for college! And now he is a retired engineer working as a tour guide and living in a small town halfway between Ashdod and Jerusalem!
The bus was full but Carol and I each took a window seat, and no one sat with either of us. The seats next to us were the only two empty ones. The view was, at first, industrial. David frequently said things that ended with “behind the truck!” Heavy traffic is an understatement. I am not sure how many lanes of traffic there were because we never actually could see the road itself. The trucks were mostly semis loaded with containers from the port. We did catch glimpses of the sand dunes and even in the near distance the City of Tel Aviv.
David explained how it was all dunes and as the port at Ashdod was completed in 1965 the city built up to support it. Haifa is the largest port city and the busiest port, here is the second of the three that Israel has. Both serve Jerusalem. The city is large, heavily populated, and modern. But the Old City is the “holiest 1 square kilometer in the world”! Home to the three major religions. The holiest in Christianity and Judaism and the third holiest in Islam. “The total population of the Old City is about 36,000. Of these, 22,000 live in the Muslim quarter, 6,000 in the Jewish quarter, another 6,000 in the Christian quarter, and about 2,000 in the Armenian quarter.” (Wiki)
Traffic took a momentary break as we changed routes but here is where urban sprawl began. David shared so many interesting stories as we drove, and he had plenty of time to tell them because we were moving just above a snail’s pace all along the 64-kilometer route. We passed through the narrow opening of the https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valley_of_Hinnom_(Gehenna). Most interesting to put “faces” to what you have learned. The perspective changes and battles become reality.
We stopped at an overlook where you can easily and clearly see the pinpoints of religion: the Temple Mount with the Dome of the Rock, Church of the Holy Sepulcher, and The Wailing Wall. This much contested spec of a city in a spec of a country holds the most important representations of the three major faiths. Hinduism is also abiding here but just outside of the walls. The Mormons traded the ability to proselytize for a premier location overlooking the city. Whatever beliefs you hold dear are represented here.
Across the ravine from where we were driving was Mt. Zion. Kind David’s Tomb is here as is the room believed to be the place of the Last Supper. On Mount Zion is also the site of Mary’s Assumption into Heaven. We did not have time to visit these places, but it was interesting that Princess Alice was responsible for the preservation of these revered locations when she took up the monastic life late in life. She was a nurse and caregiver and deeply religious. Her good fortune allowed her to provide funding for what she believed. And yes, she was Queen Elizabeth II mother-in-law. It was amazing to me the number of buses lining this Zion Road opposite the Dung Gate. No doubt that inside the Gate would be crowds. It did not disappoint.
As we approached, we could hear joyous singing. It continued as we went through a security checkpoint. Then entering through the traditional opening in the wall where refuse used to be removed, we encountered a roadblock of sorts. A large crowd of happy people singing and dancing. The young boy in his best long-sleeved white shirt, and best tie was hoisted upon the shoulders of his father and uncles to celebrate his Bar Mitzvah! We clapped and danced along to be able to pass through this group only to find ourselves amid another. If you can be inside the walls of the old city, and near the Wailing Wall to celebrate your manhood, then it must be the thing to do! There must have been ten celebrations going on all at the same time.
We gathered in the center of the square before the Wailing Wall and heard the explanation of how the city worked in days gone by and why the Western Wall of the Old Temple came to be known as such. And yes, the loud prayers of the many gathered there joined with the celebratory singing! Men are allowed to approach the left and large portion of the wall to pray and place written notes to heaven while women are allowed to go to the shorter portion on the right side.
Countless prayers were being loudly expressed and everyone seemed to continue to pray until they were able to reach the stone façade. Then you place both hands and your forehead against the warm brick and pray. Some seemed determined to read their whole prayer of the day and others, like me, simply expressed gratitude and asked for continued blessings for family and friends. I placed my blue note into a crack as best I could so “God wouldn’t forget” us.
I made my way over to the fence and stepped up to look over at the men’s side where the singing and praying were even louder. Right next to the fence was standing a family’s Torah and the young boy was happily being celebrated and feted with a lunch. Women were allowed in that area. Someone later told me that they took a shuttle not realizing it was freely provided by the happy family to bring their friends from the parking areas outside the walls.
Our next stop was the Holy Sepulcher. “By tradition this, the holiest place for Catholic and Orthodox Christians marks the site of Jesus’ crucifixion, burial, and Resurrection.” The line to go into the actual Sepulcher was too long for us to be able to do that. The guide warned us, and he was right. I asked a lady how long they had waited in line, and it was 2 ¾ hours! Of course, there is always someone who pretends they didn’t hear or know what not to do. So, we stood on the crowded, not crowded but mobbed, stairs, shoulder to shoulder and front to back with total strangers, all trying to be in the same place at the same time. To leave the area the assistant guide had to go find the missing people. They were indeed in the line but had not gotten too far not to be found! They did do this at every point. The guide had said he could only wait ten extra minutes to be able to execute the tour in the allotted time. We all know what we should do but in this holiest of places they played dumb!
I had wandered around inside seeing the beautiful altars, amazing frescos, and ornate decorations. I found a place on the side to sit and contemplate while people posed in front the various aspects as others tried to take pictures that would not include them. A group was singing and another chanting. It was amazing. The darkness and deep coloration of the artwork and sculptures should make it seem peaceful but I am not sure it was. Make this note to yourself: When I go to Jerusalem, stay overnight in the Old City and get private guides to really fulfill my dream.
From here we made our way through an inner wall and up rocky narrow steps to a shopping area like a Souk. Anything and everything was for sale. Not just for tourists but for those 36,00 locals living within the city walls. This brought us to the Via Dolorosa, the path of the Stations of the Cross. There are numbered metal plaques high on the sides of buildings depicting each incident. At one point where Jesus fell there is a handprint worn into the wall said to be HIS. Each of us and millions of others placed our own hand there for a moment.
It was not a surprise that we were not allowed to visit the Dome on the Rock or ascend the Temple Mount. Strictly Muslim only. We made our way to the Jaffa Gate, found our bus, and set out for lunch. Everyone did seem quiet and thoughtful despite the chaotic experience. We are here in prime season – not too hot and right after the High Holy Days. It was a little strange to exit the gate and find normal traffic, people carrying briefcases and talking on their cell phones.
Lunch was at a Kibbutz. This Kibbutz was not exactly based on agriculture but seemed to be a resort and conference center. It did though have beautiful gardens in full bloom. The large, beautiful hall held white tablecloth covered tables to host tour groups. Several buffet stations were also cloth draped as though for a wedding. A quite a nice variety of delicious hot and cold choices were to be made. Wine was included and tea and coffee. We spent about 45 minutes there, which to me is always a waste of time. But with a ten-hour tour surely a necessity for most people. Our next destination was Bethlehem!
I think I am good at following news and understanding the world. Apparently I am not. I know that Palestine is not happy that Israel was defined out of Arab space even though it is an ancient place. It was vice versa. I admit ignorance to the logistics but not to the strife. I did not know that Bethlehem is not in Israel but is inside Palestine! Even though it is cheek by jowl with Jerusalem! We did indeed have to pass through security, not individually but as a bus load of tourists being driven by a Jewish driver and guided by a Jew. They had to have special permits to enter the city and to stay with us during the tour. But on the other side of the very tall cement wall rimmed with barbed and razor wire, we picked up a Palestinian driver and guide as well. The Palestinian guide had to do all the talking while David dropped to the back of the group to make sure of our safety by staying together as a group. That is to say, he was still responsible to retun us all to the ship and that we wouldn't get lost or wander off on our own.
Of the population of about 26,000 people in the greater city area only about 5,000 are Christian including Catholic, Greek Orthodox, and Armenian Orthodox. Christian tourism is their only income. All the city services draw from this and are there to support it. It is not dangerous to tourists although you are under a watchful eye. Everywhere in Israel you must carry your passport and landing card. In Palestine as well.
The Church of the Nativity is simple stone with a modest bell tower. It was strange to be here looking up at the Jerusalem Cross and hearing the Muslim Call to Prayer. “Adhan is the Islamic call to public prayer (salah) in a mosque recited by a muezzin at prescribed times of the day. Adhan.” If you have never heard it know that it is a recitation in a loud, hypnotic, drone and happens day and night. Here it was not recorded as some modern ones are but performed live so the sound is a little lighter.
We entered the church through a low door with a high threshold causing you to hunch over as a reminder to be humble. Although simple on the outside the space becomes more and more bright, colorful, and amazing as you walk over the mosaic tile toward the altars. In the large area preceding the three sanctuaries – Catholic, Greek, and Armenian Orthodox – is a glass covered view of the original mosaics of the first church.
On the right was the very long line that, which again, we could not join to go down to the grotto of the “stable”. This time it was because Mass was about to start. Everything is closed then and of course we could not wait. We could walk through and view the most ornate and beautiful space of the Greek Orthodox tribute to the birth of Christ. Also passed through the more austere Armenian on and then the pretty ordinary Catholic one. Ordinary in the sense of European simplicity expressed in all Basilica.
We exited into a large courtyard where we could briefly participate in the Mass as viewers but not as attendees because it was too late to join in. It would have been disruptive and inappropriate to disturb a Mass especially in this holiest of places. Instead, our Palestinian guide led us in the singing of Silent Night. Quite strange from my viewpoint!
Seriously, don’t blame me if you go to Israel and Jerusalem, Palestine and Bethlehem, and these important places and don’t have time to reflect and worship – I told you a few paragraphs ago, the right way to do it, now didn’t I!
Back on the bus we took a short drive to an underground parking lot. We were told to buy nothing on the street as they might be made in China and not locally. Keep in mind that tourism is the only business of this town. We were guided to a large shop that had many items made by local Christian artisans. I was a little confused because we were then locked inside this beautiful store. It did have many nice and very expensive things. Many seemed good only for use in an actual church. Several people bought very large items such as a sculpted Nativity set nestled into the trunk of an olive tree. Wooden items were all Olive Wood. The Olive is also, if I remember correctly what I heard, the only tree endemic to Israel.
All the store’s goods were religious themed, even gold, and silver jewelry. And people did buy. They tour had been described as ending with ‘mandatory shopping’, but I had thought they were kidding. Since I had done my ‘religious souveniring’ inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher from an Orthodox Priest standing behind a small table near the Nave of the building but underneath some restorative scaffolding I just watched this scene unfold.
Everyone took a quick restroom break then exited through a backdoor into an alleyway where the bus was waiting. We set out to return to the ship. Back through the winding streets of Bethlehem, past buildings carved out of white Bethlehem stone. At the gate it took about 40 minutes to exchange drivers and guides and exit back into Jerusalem. It was on this side of the wall that the wire ‘catch baskets’ could be easily seen. They are preventing anyone from scaling the barrier from either side.
The first couple of rows of people on our bus had to display their passports but guards did not pass down the aisle.
Back through the crowded streets of Jerusalem past buildings carved out of Jerusalem stone which seemed even whiter than Bethlehem despite the lowering sun. By now it was evening rush hour, and the light was fading. Overall, we estimate that nearly five hours of our tour was in traffic and security stops! And we returned to the shop 11 hours after we left!
Only a little bite in the still open Café and back to our cabin to get ready for our tour tomorrow ... But as I promised in paragraph one, here is more about that. After experiencing the traffic and crowds today we decided to face the situation and cancel our tour for Masada and the swim in the Dead Sea. It is quite a distance from our ship. It was with the same company that stranded us the day before when we missed the Sea of Galilee and the chance to reaffirm our Baptism in the River Jordan. We chose to not risk missing the ship. If a fourth day in Israel was on the schedule, we could have done it even if the port was a distance. But our next stop is in Cyprus. That would be a problem to get to if the sail away was missed.
Lesson learned: Pay attention to the release of tour dates even if you are in Iceland at the time!
I am very impressed with the historic detail you always include! We have not been to the Holy Land, but after your details and advice we will be better prepared! Thank you!!
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