Wednesday, November 16, 2022

Ephesus (Kusidasi)

Kusadasi, Turkey

Sure! You probably never heard of Kusadasi. Neither had I the first time I was there. But you have heard of Ephesus! And this is the port for that historical, religious, and classical ruin. Since Carol, who loves the archeological things, had been a few times and I had been once we opted to head in the other direction.

Carol and I boarded a small bus with a driver, an excellent guide, and only ten other people to go to the Dilek Peninsula – Great Menderes Delta National Park! Here there are many species of wildlife including a Anatolic Cougar that was thought to be extinct! The have now identified four productive pairs in the park! In the small museum we saw a short movie. Also, the ranger showed us a video on his phone of the newly discovered cougar cubs.

Within the boundaries of the 16.613-hectare area park at the edge of the sea is a village that has only 9 families still living in this isolated environment. The climb up was truly a climb and truly UP!! The uneven, rocky surface made for a slow walk. I spent a lot of my time looking down to see which rock or boulder to step upon!

Along the way the guide pointed out various plants, some of which were familiar, but many were endemic species. Some were still in flower and others were berries or seed pods. Of course, I know that you can’t snatch a pocketful of seeds. Not only won’t they grow in our climate, which if they did might become invasive or damage other plants in the process, but you will risk a nice price in the way of a fine!

A very old lady with a terrific smile was walking to her house and invited us to come in. Of course, we politely declined. “Wait, wait,” she said. She went in and came out with her husband who was zipping up his jacket. In pretty clear English he began telling us the history of the village back to the early conquerors! All the while she smiled and nodded. When she realized that the guide was trying to break us away the wife began to pat him and encourage him to stop. He continued a bit more and the guide did just that, guided everyone away. I stayed a few extra minutes and found that the couple had been married 65 years! They had five children, none of whom live nearby but a son comes every week to help them to get groceries and things they need from the nearby functioning village. And truly, the word town did not apply to anything nearby!

One of the stone houses had been used as Geppetto’s workshop in the German movie version of Pinocchio! Another had been a fish market, but no one had any business operating in the village. One house had a blanket covering the door because the owner didn’t want strangers taking photos of her house. The guide quickly flipped the rug back and revealed a most beautiful carved door that was about ten feet tall and a double entryway! The Menderes River wends it way through this part of Turkey to the sea. Early explorers knew it would eventually empty into the ocean and followed it through many twists and turns. Hence the word ‘meander’ came to mean to follow a winding road or the bends or curves of a river.

After a serving of tea under a patio tent, we meandered back to the bus. Downhill is much easier than up! Back aboard the bus we drove for about an hour to another village closer to the port. We were supposed to have another tea and snack, but the café did not have room for the twelve of us, 14 with the driver and guide.

We drove a few blocks further and stopped at a Vadi. A home that makes a little extra money by serving food. Our guide, Fedoes, spoke with a nice lady wearing traditional garb with a large apron wrapped around her. She agreed to welcome us to her home in the very big garden. Several low tables with cushions for seating were scattered throughout the garden. We chose a more recognizable version with regular table height but still colorful cushions on rough wooden benches. Two or three barbecues were to the sides under the trees. A shelter held an oven and stove. Traditions tea urns were brought to each table. Individual coffee glasses were served to those who chose Turkish Coffee. The were given the choice of little, medium, of regular style. Speaking from experience, Turkish Coffee will stand your teeth on end! We had no choice when I tried it and the cup was about 25% sugar!

The lady, whose name I did not understand, made us each a savory crepe-like vegetable filled snack. It was served hot from the stove in the shack. We were offered a second one. It was very pleasant. Since we were a small group, it was easy to visit and learn a little about each other. Surprisingly there was a man in the group from East Cobb who also is a Master Gardener. Another couple was from Sandy Springs. So surprising that of the 12 of us five lived within a few miles of each other!

Back in town was the traditional, unavoidable Turkish Rug demonstration. It always starts with getting a single strand of silk from the cocoon. A magical moment for everyone who has never seen it before. Carol ducked out and then I followed suit. I used the excuse that I wanted to see if she was okay.

We walked through the marketplace. It is very nice now with shading awnings, and large, bright windows filled with lovely displays. It does not have the mystery of the old port. The dark slightly seedy stalls and hawking vendors practically pulling you into their shops is gone. We headed back to the ship taking pictures all along the short distance.

Back on board we had a late lunch and then skipped dinner. The MacDonald brothers entertained in the theater. They play violin and accordion. Quite a combination! Their singing voices were very good, but Carol could not understand their deep Scottish accent. I loved hearing it. I don’t think it hurt their singing at all.

It was a very good day.

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