We slept in a little and had breakfast about 9:00. The hotel had a large buffet, and the food was pretty good. Since the time was nearly up for serving, some things were not available or were picked over. (We didn’t realize this until the next day when we went to breakfast early and saw how much more generous the options were.)
We had decided not to get a HOHO ticket and time it to use the last morning as well. Good thing we didn’t as the time to leave the hotel changed and we will not have time to use it. So today we walked. . . and walked. . . and walked some more!
We left the hotel about 10 and headed in the direction of the Forum. I did not want to get involved with the crowds at that major site of the things people come to Rome to see – especially if it is their first visit. We went past the painted roof and down into the back alleys. I had not brought all my guidebooks since we are in so many places on this trip but most only for a day. Carol Had the HOHO map and was trying to follow it. She likes to wander and didn’t want to use Google Maps which I was happy to pull up and follow.
We passed the main sites but a block over and down a level. Remember that Rome it built on seven hills. As we zigged and zagged, we came to an open plaza which was walled by the military and police headquarters. It provided a beautiful oversight of the monuments of Rome. Notice we were down below and are now above. Yes, that means a lot of uphill and a lot of stairs! We admired the view and took more pictures, but not of the soldiers who were not all dressed in the same style of uniforms. Several different branches were there at this headquarters, and it seemed that every doorway had a guard from a different unit. Some of the uniforms were quite the kind they must use for formal parades and inspections while some looked workaday.
I could see on the distant hill, even when we first started to walk, a large cluster of what I call ‘umbrella trees.’ I thought maybe that was the site of Villa Borghese. This was the destination I chose. Carol has been in Rome many times but never there and I just wanted a quieter atmosphere. It is a large park built around the old villas of the very rich and pre-war II ruling class. They are all now museums. We were headed the right way and enjoyed looking at all the architecture and embellishments of the Roman street scene.
Along the way a man who was taking photos with a professional looking camera saw us studying the map and asked if we needed directions. As Carol said no, I said yes and a 20-minute conversation ensued! He was from Vegas and was a guide who sets up tours for people once they are where they want to be or even including travel but doesn’t do the bookings. We talked about so many things including NYC because he was wearing a New York tee shirt. But he didn’t get it there it is just a brand logo. Since then, I have seen many men wearing them. He did clarify the directions and as we started to walk on his girlfriend was coming for him. She did not look happy that he had been MIA for so long. Carol and I think it is because she saw him talking to two good looking women!
Further along the Via Veneto the area turned to a very commercial district and then to the most obviously more expensive side of Rome. The shops became higher end, the people on the street were well dressed, the men and boys in suits and ties and the ladies in dresses and heels. It was Sunday so maybe Romans just dress very well to attend services in the unending choice of churches, basilicas, and cathedrals. We also passed a clever art display along the way. Very funny in front of the very expensive shops.
As we strolled along the tree lined streets, we could see very nice private residences with well-kept gardens and then came to even higher end shopping and the gates of Villa Borghese.
We entered, no admission, and began to explore the 197.7 acres of the park! Well, we probably only covered a few acres of it but enjoyed all the viewing. We made our way all the way to the lake where several rowboats were going every direction! Ducks and geese and boats all circled the Temple of Aesculapius!
So many families were in the park enjoying picnics with their children and even had their dogs with them. All the dogs were off leash but well behaved. The children also were running loose enjoying climbing trees, and statues or playing games. Many families rented bicycles which allowed four people to pedal while little ones rode in front facing basket seats. Couples in carriages slowly passed by. Skaters had separate paths as did regular bicycles. But it seemed to me that mostly families were enjoying a sunny Sunday in the park before winter begins.
We spent a few hours walking and people watching before heading back to the city bustle. Everyone with maps (tourists) and shopping bags (tourists and locals) from the boutiques. As we exited the park the Maserati dealer and Ferrari showroom was across the street!
Search https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villa_Borghese_gardens to see more about this not to be missed break from touring momentum.
We were heading to the famed Spanish Steps but decided that we did not need to follow the crowd as we have been there before. Karen and I stayed just at the top of them when we toured years ago. We turned left instead and wended our way through different streets and back alleys in the general direction of the hotel. It was fun for me as we approached the area to recognize certain shops and cafes and be confident that we were headed the right way. As you may have guessed by now, Rome is not on a grid system!
Back up the steps by the painted roof and two right turns to the hotel. Bless Otis for the elevator up to five and our room. Sit down! We walked over 7 miles!!
But not to get too comfortable and back out to the streets, a stroll, another café, another dinner. Well, I only order Iced Tea which came in a sparkling gold bottle. Carol said the pasta and mussels was the best she ever had. We strolled further toward the Coliseum, quieter now, and found gelato. Very delicious.
Okay, true story about me that won’t surprise you. The ice cream was very soft and slipped off my cone. Yes, I know, I should have gotten a bowl and put a cone hat on it. But the well-worn sidewalks of ancient Rome did not deter me. I bent down, scooped up what had been the first scoop which was now unscathed on top of the remains of the second. I examined it carefully and consumed the scraped-up dessert with peace of mind!
Back at the Hotel Palatino we did what little repacking we had to do, showered, emailed, texted, read for a while and slept soundly. Our clock was set for seven a.m.!
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