Russe, Bulgaria

We have not traveled far as Russe is just about across the river from Bucharest although each lies a few miles away from the river.  On this part of the Danube the Viking River claim, that you travel Europe and arrive in the heart of the city, is not exactly correct.  Since it divides the two countries the cities must by nature be set aside.  And today, actually, we left the ship for a drive through Russe and into the countryside meeting the ship again this evening at another port on our way to Vidin.  Our tour today took us an hour and a half out of the city to the two towns of Arbanassi and Velika-Tarnovo.

We had stopped briefly in Tarnova for a coffee break after the long ride.  The very dilapidated hotel was probably delighted to have a contract with Viking to allow the use of the bathrooms.  They also provided juice, coffee, tea, and a variety of cookies all of which were deemed to be delicious.  One very small round chocolate one was very much like the rum balls we make at Christmas.  We walked out on the bridge for a good view of the memorial statue of the brothers who held off the Ottomans and then became the first rulers of the country.  I got a cool picture, I think, of the town reflected in the river.  And no, I do not know the name of the river.  Our guide only had the information that she had been required to know in order to lead the tour.  After the brief, 15 or 20 minute, break we drove up the mountain to the neighboring town of Arbanassi.

Monument to four brothers.  It was built in Communist times to celebrate the uprising of Asenevci that resulted in the liberation of Bulgaria from the Byzantine empire.

I imagine this almost dilapidated hotel in this tiny mountain town was happy to host us.

I like that a bit of the town is reflected in the still waters below.

The highlight of the tour was visiting the Church of the Nativity in Arbanassi. Here is a website description.  “The Nativity Church is the oldest church in Arbanassi. Originally built during the 15^th century the simple low level building belies the wealth of art to be found within. Nearly every inch of the vaulted interior is covered in paintings and frescoes dating back to the 17^th century. Scenes are from the old and new testaments: the life of Christ, the virtues of the Virgin Mary, there is even a frieze of Greek philosophers and several inscriptions of the benefactors and sponsors. The 'Wheel of Life' on the east wall of the north gallery is the earliest depiction of this type in Bulgarian churches.”

It is true, every inch of the church is covered in artistic renditions of the biblical stories and the life of Christ. Church decoration was a way to teach the lessons of the Bible to people who cannot read. In some cases there even was not yet a written language when missionaries arrived.  Some of the art, such as the Nativity scene itself, was enhanced with gold.  

Picture taking was not allowed so here is a link to viewing this amazing display.  The work was done by more than one artist, none of whom are known as nothing is signed.  It was painted for the glory of God not for the praise of the painter!  The interior has been cleaned but not renovated and cracks are filled with cement.  White tape marks other areas where damaging cracks are being watched.  When you look at the pictures on the link I have included think that everywhere you see black was once a bright Marion Blue.  It is all gone and not recoverable.  The whole interior was first painted black and the other colors over it.  The blue has not survived. The outside of the church is completely almost unrecognizable as even being a church in keeping with the hidden Christian model the Turks demanded.  In fact when the building needed expansion a permit was granted because it was pitched by the hierarchy that the space was needed so that the women could be separated from the men.

https://intrepidberkeleyexplorer.com/Page30E.html

Is it any surprise that as we approached Elva looked around and asked me where the church was.  You recall they had to be subdued and hidden.

Side of the church.

Many images can be found here and are well worth viewing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=bulgaria+painted+church+church+of+the+nativity&client=firefox-b-1-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi5nd-U0__hAhXbAWMBHUmkAFwQ_AUIDigB&biw=1254&bih=600

I believe this is a 1953 Dacia!

The town of Arbanassi is a resort town of sorts where families can hike, rest, relax in the cool mountain air.  Many homes have become hotels here and many feature swimming pools as there are no lakes nearby and in winter no skiing.

We also visited a 16^th century home of a wealthy merchant.  It was so similar to the one we visited in Albania that once again the closeness of these peoples and cultures belie the dissonance and wars that once existed.

Ceiling detail

We could notice the Eastern influence.

Triple bread ovens

Indoor toilet!  It may not be comfortable but this really demonstrated the wealth of the merchant.

Original detail was very pretty.

People relaxed in the garden.

We then went to a lovely, large complex within a stone wall.  This was once a family home but is now used as a hotel.  The buildings are stone and quaint and the peace that was within the walled garden was palpable. It was only broken by the laughter of children running and playing, the squawk of the ‘zoo’ birds in the large wire cage, and of course us!  The pool was blue tiled and large but no one was using it.  This is where we had lunch in a cave like cellar.  I declined the goulash although some said it was quite different and delicious.  The fried cheese was melty good.  Folkloric dancers whirled and trilled.  The dances were a little different and the music was good.

A little zoo for the kids at this family resort.

Folkloric entertainment.  Each group of our tour was in a different dining room but the menus were the same and the musicians and dancers rotated.

Allan joined in the dancing.

 

Now here is a funny thing.  We were all seated together but had not met before.  Elva and I met Chris, Susan, Jean, and Jan.  All live now or at sometime in the past in Decatur.  Three of the ladies worked at the CDC at the same time as Elva!  Wow!  Talk about a small world!  Our table conversation  became about who went to which school, worked at which places as kids, attended which churches.  We hope to get together some time this summer.  I nominated Elva to host at her lake house since two of us now live in Athens.

After lunch we returned to Tarnova where nine of us trekked up a steep incline to the remains of a fort.  After which there was a long steep climb back into the town.  My friends and I instead wandered along the ‘street of the artists.’  There was only about a thirty minute time and I was not inclined to do climbing and rushing all at the same time!

This design was done as a cement fresco type of art layered onto the side of the building  There were several of these.

Cute, huh!  But I don't think it will fit in my suitcase!

Even in nicer areas remains of the communist lack of care or money to do repairs is evident

Magnets which included classical embroidery.

When we boarded the bus for our hour and a half return drive we went through different but remarkably the same scenery.  We were going to meet the boat in Svistov.  I had been tempted to stay on board and quietly sail the distance.  The church was remarkable but it was a three hour bus ride after three weeks of bus travel. What was interesting was to see and hear about the way the rural regions are managed.  The villages are run down with limited population.  The fields are large but not farmed by the owners so there are not many animals because no one lives out in the country.  If someone in town owns a sheep or horse, there is a shepherd of the village who collects them in the morning to take them to graze and returns them in the evening. 

When the land was assumed by the Socialist government the people were persuaded, forced, to go to the cities to work in the factories.  Homes were abandoned and fell into ruin.  After the fall of Communism an attempt was made to return the land to those whose plots were registered and deeded.  That was too complicated and the alternative plan resulted in permanently abandoned farms.  Land was divided and owners received equivalent acreage. It just wasn’t necessarily where they lived!  It could be many miles away.  People didn’t have gasoline or cars to put the gas into anyway.  They had no way to get to the land they were given.  Entrepreneurs, many of whom were former party members and workers, offered to farm the land for them and give them some of the product once a year.  So these new ‘land barons’ assembled large lands to manage.  They became wealthier but people were happy to have flour, wheat, corn or whatever given to them annually.  Otherwise the land would return to nature.

The county has not recovered.  The people are accepting but not really hopeful.  They remain cautious.

Back on board, 7 1/2 hours after departing this morning, we were greeted with Elderflower Lemonade and it was delicious.  But already it was time to get a little cleaned up, grab our life vests and go to our station up on the sun deck. The staff person in charge of Station one just checked us off the list and said, ‘Have a seat, ladies.’  Nice, comfortable deck chair while everyone else was standing we were just taking in the sun.  Since last night we had all the instructions and the vest donning demonstration by the Captain, as soon as everyone was checked off the drill was over.  Elva and I continued to enjoy the sun until it was time for the Port Talk and dinner.  

 

A little, very little, three hole putting green and the herb garden.  Fresh herbs are used at every meal!

Sunset over Russe!

We did not stay up for the late night entertainment for a couple of reasons.  Violetta, the Program Director, is, as one person commented, ‘verbose’ to say the least.  She repeats everything several times and although she wants us to be prompt for dinner, she talks at least 10 or 15 minutes into the dinner hour.  Then dinner service started later to begin with because of the long tour today.  So by the time we had our dessert and coffee it was already 9:30.  Also, the performance for tonight was just the onboard musicians, a pianist and a singer.  We chose to go to spend  more time talking and then going to bed a little early around 10:30!

It was a very enlightening day.