Monday, May 13, 2019

Kalocsa, Hungary



Today we were sailing on to Hungary.  Not a great distance but on a river at ‘river speeds’ we did not reach our next destination until after lunch.  We had been delayed in the morning because the Hungarian officials delayed in arriving on board for a ‘face to face’ passport control.  In itself that only involved a quick walk to the atrium when our deck number was called. We then collected our passports which were stored by cabin number, show it to once official who handed it to another who stamped it.  He passed it to a third officer who put it back into a case.  The ship kept the passports for the whole trip since we were in four different countries along the way.

Elva and I had already reallocated our suitcase spaces for the move tomorrow to the hotel in Budapest.  I put the few things I would wear there to the top and just under that my jeans and a long sleeve shirt and sweater for the flight home.  Also packed up in the bottom stuff I wouldn’t need at all. So now we had time to say goodbye to the folks we had met that we might not see again because there were two hotels booked.  Some are going on to Prague after that.  Some are traveling around Europe because this week long river cruise is the beginning of their trip while we can’t wait now to go home!

After lunch we boarded our bus for a short drive into Kalocsa.  We visited the ‘Big Church’ which happens to be the Cathedral Church of the Assumption of Mary.  It was first built in 1050. Of course, through the centuries, it has been destroyed by invaders more than once.  This version of the Cathedral was built on the site of the previous churches between 1728 and 1774.  The current building is classic Baroque in style.  It is currently undergoing an archeological study.  All around it everything is torn up.


Liszt once again lurks.  He ordered, tested and approved of the church organ.  He was the first to play it.  He is a little out of sorts due to the excavations.

Beautiful doorway that is a little unusual for a church.

The church and the nearby buildings are painted in Maria Theresa's favorite color - yellow.  Notice the pollarding of the sycamore trees.  This is a European custom.

This is a most unusual decoration for any church.  Pale pink and gold are the original colors.

King - St. Stephen.


Spectacular organ.  The player was wonderful and the concert was very good.




Pieta above the empty Tomb representation as Easter is still being celebrated.




Once settled inside we were entertained by an organ concert which was performed on a masterpiece that was approved by Franz Liszt.  His statue had to be moved to the side because of the excavations.   The music was beautiful because the organist was a true artist.  We all sang along when he concluded with the Battle Hymn of the Republic in our honor.

Our next stop was in Puszta.  Here is the ranch of the MagyarHorseman.  What fun.  Of course it started with Rakija!  Then we took seats in a covered stand to watch a fun demonstration of the legendary skills of these men.  Who but these men would ride hoses with saddles that are not attached? There was comic relief with a Sancho Panza type character riding the donkey! 

We were led by one of the riders.  Note he uses no saddle and so no stirrups!



Great horseman ship and well trained animals.  The whips never touch the horses but they respond just to the sound and movement of the whips.

A very unnatural pose for a horse to sit like a puppy!
There was an oxcart pulled by special white oxen with golden balls on the tips of their horns.  This is not vanity but protection from being gored.  It also quickly identifies them in the herd.  Some games were played.  A rider had a ladies scarf and the others tried to snatch it.  Of course, the guy on the donkey won!  It was all good fun.  In another game the goal was to knock a chunk of wood off a stand.  The fun there was also watching the ladies who had to plow through the mud to put the block in place.  Different teams of horse were ridden, one, two three.  On the team of three the third horse is actually attached to the rear wheels of a cart. This gives extra strength to move heavy loads through the flooded river banks.  One rider managed a team of ten white horses making several turns around the muddy field. 

The traditional costume is a blousy blue pant.






That is a ten horse team of white stock being ridden by one man standing on the two rear horses rear ends!  One foot on each!
At the end we had a chance to visit the stable where all the horses were having a hay snack.  Then the ‘carriages’ pulled up and we climbed aboard a covered cart for a ride around the field, past the sheep, past the cattle.  We had such a good time.  Way better than a hay ride.  Unfortunately my phone was dead so no video!
 
The farms around here have a primary product – Paprika.  It comes in mild, sweet, smoky, and super-hot. Of course I bought some for my son-in-law who loves spicy things.  He will have to let me know if it is.


On the way back to the ship we passed a circus that was having the elephants help with unloading and setting up!  So classic and we seldom, if ever, see that at home any more.  Once on board we got ready to have dinner.  Allan decided our last meal should be in the dining room which was a noisy as ever.  Here is my helpful river boat tip --- eat on the terrace!  Way better for conversation, way faster service.  Lee Ann won’t be going to the hotel in BudaPest with us because she is staying on the Embla until Amsterdam.  She will have a tour in the morning then sail away.  The rest of us tucked in to get ready for an early exit in the morning. 

Good night.

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