Intentional traveler: Transfer to Lamphrey

On Monday, the Bank Holiday, we once again drove past the lines of parked vehicles belonging to intrepid hikers and climbers. It was very slow going as we headed to our last destination for this in depth study of Wales. We were scheduled to travel to the town of Lamphey with talks from Conway along the way about tiny towns of interest.

One great story he told in his inimitable way was the story of Beddgelert. I had read it in my absolute, personally I recommend to you, D.K Eyewitness Guide. But Conway has a flair for the the voice and spirit of every tale. It is a quick read but a lengthy tale as told by Conwy.

The Legend of Beddgelert

We stopped in Portmeiron. You may be aware of the pottery bearing the same name. It is made or designed by the founder's daughter. Sir Clough Williams-Ellis took bits and pieces of troubled estate homes and built a Med styled fantasy land. You can stay here in the hotel or a cottage that is self-catered. This is the Welsh and English term for a cottage you rent and fix your own meals etc. A vacation home.

History of Portmeiron

Portmeiron for nice photos and a quick look at this city you may know if you were a fan of The Prisoner!

Brian Epstein's favorite holiday habitat - the Gate House.

George Harrison, yes That George Harrison, came here to rest on his manager's advice. There are many cottages and rooms 'to let' as the Brits (and Welsh) would say. George wanted to stay in one on the cliff-side overlooking the sea. He was convinced, reluctantly, to stay at this lovely hotel next to the sea. Seems he drank a lot and Epstein was afraid he would fall off the balcony and into the sea!

Elva and I were featured in our own sort of story here. We joined the twenty minute included tour and at the end walked down the deep slope to the estuary, I think everything in Wales is on an estuary - but that is another story! We took pictures and speculated about whether or not it would be fun to stay in a place packed with tour groups during the day and site - seers but then just a nice dinner and good book in the evening.

We saw Mark and Conway coming toward us and they said there was a nice walk along the beach but in a places it was a bit rough. And, indeed, it was for us. We followed along enjoy the views and followed the path and turned up the hill on a rough patch. We continued as we understood that it would circle back to the top of the hill from which we had come.

As the path went deeper into the woods and climbed ever steeper I suggested going back but I forged ahead behind the intrepid Elva. As she started to go even higher and deeper into tree rooted undergrowth, I called to her and said let's go this way, keeping the water directly on our right. I said, I know there are steps up ahead that we opted not to take in the beginning. That must be the way down. And so Elva returned and followed me further uphill but then it did begin to go down. Lots of trees roots were still reached out to grab our ankles and leaves made a slip-slidey surface for our gym shoes.

We did begin to go down and there were what seemed to be steps. Tree roots that bulged upward to step over and down, and then finally some stone slabs. But they sloped and were jagged. Elva stumbled and I was clutching the tree bank. I moved slowly and Elva was leading. And then I made an executive leadership decision! "Sit Down!" I called out to Elva. Just sit down and go down on your bottom. I was ahead of her now and not sure how we were going to proceed. She took a few more steps and was back to clutching tender brush branches as we had been before. I was sitting on a stone outcropping and looked back and Elva had both hands on a grassy bank undetermined on what to do next! "Sit down, just sit down. We still have a week to travel and you can't be falling down and ending our trip!"

Elva sat down!

I was working my way down step by step, stickers in my bare hands and in my pants seat! Even though I was not standing in my next move my foot slipped and then the Miracle of Portmeiron happened! I saw some people walking walking on the path below us. It wasn't far it just was twisty and steep. "Hello! Hello!" They stopped and looked around. "We are up here. We're stuck!" Salvation arrived in the guise of Paul The Magnificent! The well dressed gentleman came up the steps, very cautiously, and took my hand. He held on while I stood up and he WALKED BACKWARDS down the steps, carefully telling me which foot to place where and helping me to maintain my balance.

It was slow going. Elva was still stuck. Paul's wife, Fiona, was standing and looking up through the bushes to see this all. More people stopped to watch and then a younger man climbed up and worked his way past Paul and I and led Elva down the path. People are kind! I thanked Paul profusely and had Fiona take our photo. If you see this man anywhere, thank him again for me.

Elva slumped onto a bench and didn't get the name or picture of her rescuer. I told her we had only seven minutes until 'wheels rolled!' As headed up the paved then cobbled slope back to the village Elva followed. I called directions back to her and I zipped ahead. Elva was moving slowly at this point. When I got to the bus I asked Mark to go back and meet her as she seemed to be struggling climbing up but he quickly returned and said she was doing fine. I suggested to Mark and Conwy that they be a little more clear with their directions but of course they never thought that we would have strayed so far from the logical path!

Go back and look at the picture of the hotel. We had ended up on a path that went over the hill behind the hotel and we were far above its rooftop!

Because it was a Bank Holiday the National Library of Wales was closed. Our lunch was to have been there but was moved to the nearby hotel in Aberystwyth. I had to keep up with the changes because my as yet never met cousin Lynda Rowe was going to be meeting us. She was bringing my young cousin Becky since there was no school. The day was rainy and very cool. I was glad for the warmth of the bus but there was always someone too hot or too cold in this motley crew of 13. So as a compromise the roof vents were open and since I was sitting beneath one, I was freezing!

When we arrived at just after one o’clock Lynda came right out of the restaurant to meet us in the lobby. Becky shyly followed her. I would have known Lynda anywhere! Blonde hair and a Noble smile! That first hug was the warmest hug ever and I felt immediately like we had been friends our whole life. It was so great of Mark and Conway to allow her to come along. She had already ordered and paid which demonstrated her graciousness.

The conversation flowed easily as we quickly tried to map out our connection. I am never sure how cousins connect or are once removed or whatever. The hour flew by and soon we were boarding our bus. Lynda and Becky had driven an hour to meet us and had an hour drive home. Despite what we thought was cold, damp weather, Becky was going swimming with friends that afternoon in the river Wye! It passes behind their house and up a ways there is a park for everyone to enjoy it. The good news was that months ago, when Lynda first knew I was coming, I sent her our schedule and she has booked into our hotel for Tuesday (tomorrow) night! She chose this because Wednesday is to be free morning. But for now we had to part. She in her Mini and me on the great yellow coach.

We stopped at a tiny church and cemetery in this university town which was at one time considered to be the capital of Wales but lost the vote to Cardiff. Conwy always finds something of interest to share after his recitation of dates and lineages and stories of misguided encounters. Here there is a long scroll carved onto a wall near the altar. It was ordered by a wealthy person to honor her deceased husband. But apparently the carver was not very thoughtful or skilled. When I was young and signs were printed by hand or tortuously pounded out on a manual typewriter we were taught to plan carefully before making the finished copy. On this elaborate art piece the carved had perhaps not done this. In several places a letter had to be squeezed in to finish a word. In more than one spot the final word of the phrase was carved just below or above the one before. The honoree’s date of death was carved over to make a 19 into a 20! We could spot so many errors that were weirdly corrected once we knew where to look.

The decorative pipes are seen by the congregation

but the working organ pipes are behind in plain square boxes.

The brass 'handle' flips up and down.

On a rainy day you raise it like this and place your 'bumbershoot' to drip into the little catch pan.

I always think churchyards are fascinating records of physical history and social consciousness.

We drove along the waterfront where people were trying to enjoy the holiday with beach picnics. But all along the way bonfires were burning on the pebbly beach and yet some folks were in the water enjoying a swim. We parked at the base of a hill, climbed out, and climbed up to the castle at the crown. By now the sun was shining. Children and dogs were everywhere. We got the history and the 'begats' of this castle. It was explained that a motte and bail design places a small castle on a high hill even if it needs to be created. The bail is the open area in front of the castle where admirers may gather or guards parade. No moat. My favorite thing though was that because we were using our Whisperers I was able to hear the details and still pet a tiny little, new puppy that a little boy was loving to play with. They rolled in the grass and jumped over stones. The dad was soon on the ground dodging puppy kisses as well.

Beaches in any part of Europe do not have the 'sugar sands' of our own Gulf shores.

Better pictures than I could take on our misty visit! Ruins can be way more interesting than intact remains of fortresses I believe.

We continues our day long journey south to Pembrokeshire National Park having left Snowdonia far behind. Well not so far maybe. Only about a hundred and fifty miles from one park to the other the way we drove but worlds apart in scenery. Pembrokeshire Park is a coastal park and much flatter although there are still gently rolling hillsides dotted with the ubiquitous national emblem - sheep! The Preseli Mountains are softer, greener, and barely noticeable by comparison.

Here are some of the views that ended our day.