When we left Isafjordur I was very excited. We had talked with Dr. Douglas while on shore. He knew that they were making no announcement of the fact that to sail Isafjordur to Akureyri the Captain would have to chose the route that crossed into the Arctic Circle. If not he would be sailing at some points within 8/10 of a mile from the shore. No way a ship of this size could risk that! So yea! I have officially been to the Artic Circle and all seven continents! I have crossed the Equator and the International Dateline several times each. I am a very lucky person. So happy to add the Arctic Certificate to my treasure trove of travel!
Yesterday we visited Akureyri which is the second largest city in Iceland, population about 18,500. We had a tour at 12:30 so we went out early and wandered around town. The large group of knitters on board were even earlier. As we left they were returning with bundles of new yarn.
We walked up to the Akureyrarkirkja which is a very large church towering over the town, sort of like the Temple in Salt Lake City. Not in style but in presence. All the churches we have come across so far are always locked. Strange in that they keep telling us Iceland is the safest country in the world! Some of the stained glass windows were brought from England’s Cathedral in Coventry. (The Coventry Carol at Christmas) Others proclaimed heroic Icelanders from the distant and not too distant past. The exterior is a greyish concrete face with white stone towers overlooking the sea. There are about 100 stairs to climb the grassy hill in the middle of town. Oddly there is, below the cross, a clock face! The bells chime on the hour and half hour.
The apartments near the docks, warehouses, fishing boats, cafes, and the church were in neat, square, concrete four flat arrangements with large windows, balconies, and plain colors. The Danish influence is obvious…boxes in muted colors.
After a fast lunch back on board we made our way to the theater for our four hour tour to the countryside. We traveled through the city and learned about it’s history as a premier fishing (everything here is fishing industry) exporter. It is located on the longest fjord in Iceland. Something we really enjoyed later as we sailed away during dinner!
Our first stop was at the Lystigarour Akureyrar Botanical Gardens high up on the side of the fjord wall. Very much like the one we visited the other day but significantly larger. The gazebo and the fountain on either side really set off the beautiful blooms. Many of the these were classified as Flora Arctica. The greenhouses held the more delicate flowers we might have at home. It would have been so tempting to have a hot cup of chocolate and a delicious strudel at the tiny wooden café. It was warm enough to sit outside but we had no time to stay.
Back on board Bjorn continued his narrative of culture and lifestyle on the island. Iceland is an island country like Greenland. The early explorers crossed the names of the two to keep others from landing or settling in Iceland. They wanted it for themselves.
Our next stop was the amazing Godafoss. The falls are named for when Christianity first came to Iceland in A.D. 1000. In the 10th century there was a position in a community known as a law-speaker. They would stand upon a high place and proclaim exactly that – the laws of where they were. Remember that most people couldn’t read and CNN wasn’t telling them a version of the news every hour on the hour! Porgeir Ljosvetningagooi was the law speaker. (How does anyone know this!) He declared that Christianity was to be the true religion and threw all of the statues of Norse Gods into the Ice-Blue river and waterfall. The shape of Godafoss is very like a smaller version of Horseshoe Falls at Niagara. The similar curve and dense flow but also a small island at the crest like Goat Island. The river that forms the falls is the longest in Iceland, Thjorsa.
Back on our warm bus we made our way up along the side of the fjord to Laufas Heritage Village. Similar idea to what we have Williamsburg in Virginia. Several homes, barns, churches, stores and a schoolhouse have been relocated from other parts of this area of Iceland. Most fascinating are the ones with their turf roofs. One of the turf farmhouses has re-enactors describing the memorabilia of 19th century North Iceland. The church pulpit was carved in the 17th century.
Back on board dinner was sparse. We didn’t understand why only one station was open on the buffet! Lasagna, very good, was the only offering. Not sure why that was but we didn’t feel like changing.
The entertainment was Part 2 of the BBC Planet. It was shown on the triple, wraparound screen in the World Theater while the Lincoln Center String quartet played the music from the TV soundtrack.The 10:15 sunset was spectacular.
Today has been very low key. Seydisfjord is a tiny town of 850 people depending on fishing and tourism. We tendered ashore while the Viking Mars was docked. Smaller town, smaller facilities, smaller ship. This town is not at the mouth or base of the fjord but along the edge part way down. The overcast sky and low hanging made us doubly glad that we did not spend over $300 to drive out to a place to hike to another waterfall! We slept in until 8:00 a.m. and then had a leisurely breakfast in the uncrowded Lido Market. Many passengers had already left the ship for their active tours. We went to the tender about 10:00 and chose to walk around town looking at the colorful houses in the narrow space between the water and the fjord wall. The cheerful wood, or cement, or corrugated homes were surely painted to brighten the long winter. I loved seeing a row of bicycles parked next to the; Papa’s, Mama’s, Big Brother, Little Brother and a pink one for Little Sister!
The grocery store was about the size of a Domino’s pizza store. Jam packed with cruisers from two ships we stayed only a few minutes. We passed four cafes with guests drinking hot beverages at picnic tables. Coffee in Iceland is said to be delicious.
The old hospital with its red wooden exterior and green framed windows is now a hostel. It sits beside the two story grey and charcoal new hospital. A school has a playground with a giant air-filled bouncy platform. The pharmacy, hardware store and things were closed as it is Sunday. We saw local families out with children riding bikes or walking around, probably gawking at the crazy people who came to see their town.
Most of us came to see their natural landscape and wilderness. On December 18, 2020, as though the pandemic wasn’t enough, there was a massive avalanche. The most devastating of all of Iceland’s many such events. Mercifully no one was killed but 13 historically registered homes and buildings were destroyed. Floods carried some away. The people rebuilt some and not others. We read the sign with the story on the way to the slender tall falls we could see from our balony. (Not the one the tours were going to visit.)
The rain began to drizzle as we walked to the narrow falls above the village. The gravel path would have allowed us to climb along side of it but we opted to not be sliding down wet gravel on the return. The pictures were fine from where we were. Two hours ashore, real rain by the time we returned to the ship for a cozy afternoon. I took the opportunity to write to you and now say goodbye as we head to meet friends for dinner in the dining room.
P.S. we have a new entertainer on board, Jamilia. She has a lovely voice and we look forward to hearing her again!
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