Bar Harbor, Maine, USA

Home again to the US of A. First thing this morning we proceeded according to deck to the World Stage Theater. There three immigration officers waited as we filed down the aisle to remove our mask, hand over our passports and answer a random question. Mine was "Where were you born?" Once everyone on all ten decks passed muster we were cleared to go ashore. Note that crew went to another area for clearance and foreign passport holders, like our friend Deb from Calgary, went to the dining room to be 'interviewed'. Carol and I were hoping that by the time the entire process was finished the clouds, mist, and fog would have cleared. It didn't. Actually, it seemed much worse. It took the tender such a long time to motor through the bay. Extra care was taken not to cross the many lobster traps that were evident from the colorful buoys floating above them. The Nieuw Statendam's sister ship, the Zaandam, was also in port but had disappeared from sight! We were anchored quite close together here as in some other places we had been but the black hull could not be seen, much less the white decks above. The small islands in the bay and the distant shore would be perfectly visible and on next look be shrouded by mysterious fog. It is no surprise to me that Stephen King and James Patterson find inspiration here. Even I wanted to write about a small boat found floating and empty but with a lady’s purse and one high heel in it! As we crossed the floating dock to reach dry land, it was dry no more. The rain began in all seriousness. Everyone seemed to huddle up under the eaves of the visitor center or go into one of the many small restaurants attached to it. All of a sudden people who have just left an endless buffet and drink bar needed another cup of coffee! We had met people at breakfast planning to go sea kayaking or expecting long hikes in the incredibly beautiful Acadia National Park. Not sure if those plans fell through but I know the beauty of Acadia would not be seen today. I felt bad for them as it is a truly amazing place to visit. I was glad that we had decided to just be wanderers today. Carol was on the hunt for wild blueberry jam. We made our way past all the shops first and went up to the top of the hill. Along the way we pointed out to each other some of the pretty buildings and then crossed over a block to just enjoy the many, beautiful, huge 'summer cottages'. The rain had teased us into thinking it might let up but then had the last laugh as it started to come down even harder. We heard organ music and so ducked into St. Savior Episcopal Church. The noon concert wasn't for yet another hour, but the organist was practicing. The acoustics were amazing! The humble red brick exterior belies the importance of this building. The dark wood interior was very traditional. Not a big place but with a confident presence knowing its importance to the town of Bar Harbor and American art history. The original church is now the transept of the building. In 1888 Mrs. William Vanderbilt donated the church hall to house the Sunday School. Bar Harbor was their summer home, and they wanted their children to have year-round religious influence. More importantly there are 15 Tiffany windows including the magnificent hallmark rose window. All these works of art are still maintaining their deep, rich colors and clear leaded lines. There is a mystery here as well. I love a good story! In 1988 a lancet window picturing lilies was stolen out of the back wall of the church! Not a mark was left to show how it was done. The Tiffany window at the time of the thievery was valued at over $100,000! It wasn't a little thing. It was a big church window. It would be hard to dispose of and had the writing In Memorium across the yellow ribbon binding the sculpted bouquet. Someone must know they have it and that it was stolen. And from a church! I wonder if evil has befallen them. They probably didn't know the value of it at the time. It wasn't until ten years later that the FBI created their art theft bureau, so the window has never been found. After about 30 minutes we went back out and the rain still fell. We crossed the street to the public library and took refuge there. The building was new, pinkish brick but inside was a classic old library. Inviting rooms with dark wood accents and lots of actually comfortable chairs fanned off the central circular atrium. One room had a large fireplace, a bronze bust on a pedestal, and the chairs were grouped at coffee tables. Definitely a living room feel welcomed readers to snuggle in with a good book. The large reading room had an upstairs loft all around it. The loft had classic rolling ladders to reach the topmost books! The main floor room had large, polished, desk like tables. Carol and I took one in a book nook next to an open window protected from the falling rain by wide eaves. While I posted a couple of these articles using their free but very fast Wi-Fi, Carol checked mail and checked in for her flight home. Yes. The trip is ending. But so was the rain. On the way out we passed the children's room. It also had a homey look to it. Several children were gathering books to take home, and a few were settled in kid-sized stuffed chairs oblivious to the others while enjoying their books. A librarian's dream! I loved, too, that each area had lots of natural light and that hometown homelike feel! Back outside we sidestepped puddles on the cobbled sidewalk and window shopped for the best place to buy jam. Oh, but wait! First, I had to go into the independent bookstore! Not many of those left anywhere, are there! A local author was signing mystery books and had a line waiting to meet her. The store seemed to be three rooms. Each was floor to ceiling with books of all kinds. The signage was homemade, I am sure. Some was just cardboard dividers between genres. The middle of the first room held tables stacked high with the newest editions or books by popular authors. Who Knew James Patterson has a new one out about Diana, William, and Harry. I will be asking for that at home for sure. It was hard to leave this wonderful place, but the rain had let up and the search for what seemed to be good Maine Wild Blueberry Preserves continued. So many cute little shops enticed us to browse, even though we are not really shoppers. Score, we found what looked good and was even a couple of dollars less than in the tempting store with teapots, cups, and scone mix! The streets were crowded with people from two large ships, and I am sure there were people trying to enjoy a quiet weekend away. It is that kind of place. A sign in one store window said they were closed so that the employees could have a few paid off days before the upcoming Labor Day weekend. Yes, Labor Day, the official beginning of leaf-peeping season was here! Bar Harbor will be packed! We succumbed to neither $7 ice cream cones, free ice cream on the ship awaited us, nor to $27 Lobster Rolls, more if you wanted to be seated in the restaurant. But all the shops and restaurants, and bars were full. So glad Karen and I were here for an actually quiet weekend years ago. A tender was waiting, and we passed the beautiful, Grand Hotel-like, Acadia Inn. Right on the waterfront its dark grey paint and wide white porches would be a wonderful place to spend some time admiring the many sailboats in the harbor. It did not take long to get back to the ship and re-board for the last time. We settled in to finish packing. We joined Deb for one last dinner in the dining room. Deb needed to confirm her debarkation time at the main desk. So, our trip sort of ended where it started – in line at the Purser’s Office. We did go to the show which was maybe the best one they had. The singers and dancers performed together with the twin pianists on the main stage. I did not realize before that that the Billboard Onboard pianos which we enjoyed were really baby grand cases for electronic keyboards! But the design was in full view here. We bumped into Don and Nora and of course hugged goodbye. Up in the Crow’s Nest we shared one last drink, one more farewell with Rita. Katie the Trivia girl joined us, and Deb gave her a cheat sheet of Newfoundland expressions she could use in future cruises, The ship will be doing some of the same route as it continues on for the Fall leaf season. Back in our cabin, we tucked in for what we knew would be a restless night. The last night always is. Your mind reviews the good times and goes over the checklist to make leaving the ship easier. For example, I realized I had not checked in for my flight and made more than one mental note to do it as soon as we reached Boston Harbor. Yes, what was a long trip seems to come to a sudden end!

Halifax, Nova Scotia

Hard to believe the trip is ending. At first it seemed so long and now it seems we haven’t done enough, but the end is near. I am so glad to be visiting Halifax. Last time I was here was on a crossing. That was 10 years ago. Iceland was wonderful to revisit. But Halifax was skipped the last time due to Hurricane Earl racing up the Northeastern Coast. We would have been caught in it if we had stopped. So I have been looking forward to this day. Carol and I had a tour scheduled to meet at noon. Well, you can be assured we didn’t just wait around for that to happen. Since we were docked we could walk off the ship right after breakfast. We walked along the 4 mile Boardwalk that is being completed to revitalize the city. And it indeed does! The broad walkway zigs among restaurants, bars, museums, playgrounds, and condos. A bagpipper was busking but it turns out that he is actually a paid street performer to promote the new harbor front. Lots of people were walking their dogs and the dogs, like everywhere we have been, are well behaved and friendly. The Maritime Museum is very big and spills out into the harbor itself. There were small kiosks-shops where you could get a lobster roll or beaver tail, cupcakes or candy, and, of course, Poutine! This seaside is worth a visit. There are upscale condos above many of the rows of stores which house beauty shops, bakeries, small housewares etc. Things condo owners might need – like a gym or two. We had to turn back to get to our tour on time. Back at the ship we went to our cabin and gathered our bags for the trip. I carry a small backpack with reading glasses, a water bottle, a collapsible walking stick, back up phone battery, chap stick, dried fruit, and an epipen! Carol carries a purse. We each took our raincoat as the forecast was for showers. Luckily we never needed them. In the theater we were assigned to tour group 18. There were four busses going to Peggy’s Cove and a Guided Walk at Fairlawn Cemetery. Fairlawn is where some of those killed when the Titanic sank on April 15, 1912 are buried. Peggy’s Cove is a beautiful, quaint, distant town with the most photographed lighthouse in Canada. It was about an hour drive to the Cove and our guide, Margaret, was great. She really kept up a running commentary about the history of Halifax and interesting facts and myths about the areas we were driving through. Tom Selleck filmed his Jesse Stone movies here. Sandra Bulloch had a home here. A strongman from nearby competed in the Olympics. That kind of thing. It is easy to see how it would have great ‘location’ opportunities. The scenery is spectacular. Fresh water lakes on one side of the road and ocean on the other. So many inlets, bays and coves and little islands of green trees and mansions. Peggy’s Cove is now a major tourist attraction. (Not like in the '70's when my folks were here or even the '90's when my sister visited!) Still beautiful but in no way a place to commune with nature. To be a ‘cove’ you are a part of the bay that is indented and quite often becomes a base for a settlement as happened here. The charming fishing village, however, has become an overcrowded tourist attraction offering $25 Lobster Rolls and cones with 25 flavors of ice cream! A broad boardwalk with deck platforms for viewing the sea and the lighthouse make the spot accessible. Many benches make for comfortable seating and I can imagine that in the early morning or late afternoon you might have a chance to contemplate the beauty of nature and wonder about the hardiness of mankind. But at the moment I was there it was like and ant colony at a picnic. Despite warning signs that the sea here has ‘rogue waves’ that can sweep over the granite boulders even on a calm day and carry you to the depths of the oceans, signs saying how many have died here, and the guides verbally warning you – yes, you guessed it. People ventured far out on the rocky promontories to see how close they could be to the gentle whitecaps of the deep blue sea! After about an hour of this chaos we headed to the ‘Titanic Cemetery.’ As we left the area we saw the former home of William deGarthe, a quite well-known local painter who has a permanent exhibit of 65 of his most famous marine artworkss in a gallery here. His home is painted with the scene of Peggy’s Cove as myth would have the story. Young Peggy appeared from the ocean after a shipwreck and only remembered that her name was Peggy. Since the bay is the Margaret Bay, named after Champlain’s mother, the name Peggy stuck with the Cove indentation. We passed the Fisherman’s Monument which is a 98 foot long deGarthe sculpture carved into the rocks to honor the many who die in this most dangerous profession. It depicts 32 men, their wives, and their now fatherless children and a large angel welcoming the men and protecting the families. The angel is said to be the lost child Peggy herself. Further on the return route (I do like when you return a different way so you see more of the countryside) at Whaleback Promontory is the memorial to victims of the tragic air miscalculation that led to the crash of SwissAir Flight 111 in 1998. Here is something to think about next time you board a plane, water is not a softer landing: At 22:31:18 AT (01:31:18 UTC), the aircraft struck the ocean at an estimated speed of 345 miles per hour (555 km/h; 154 m/s; 300 kn). The collision with the water decelerated the aircraft with approximately 350g, causing it to disintegrate instantly. The location of the crash was identified as approximately 44°24′33″N 63°58′25″W.[11]" After about an hour we reached the Fairlawn Cemetery. All along the way back to the city, as the location is quite close to the ship at only about 5 miles, Margaret told of details of the sinking of the Titanic. I think everyone knew the story, even Mylee at age 11 seemed to understand it. It is quite moving to see the stones, all matching and laid out in four rows. They say it is an accident that the rows match the outline of the bow of a ship! All the polished, dark, Maine granite markers are inscribed simply with “Died April 15, 1912” and then a number. The number was used to match the bodies with their belongings, clothes, jewelry, etc., which were put into canvas bags and sealed. The number indicates the order in which the bodies were recovered. There are still studies conducted to try to continue to match the unknown with their names and families. If a family is notified that the (at this point) ancestor has been positively identified they have the option to exhume the remains and bury elsewhere but the monument remains. Some families have added to the existing stone or incorporated it into a modest but individualized headstone. Others have simply added the name to the stone and let the dead rest in peace. We all agreed we did not have enough time at the cemetery to fully realize the significance that this then small town, miles and miles away from the site of the disaster, played such an important role in history. Margaret did let us know that some remains are buried in the Jewish Cemetery if they were thus identified by wearing a star of David for the women, or physical condition if they were men. One Christian minister was buried here until identified and then moved to the Christian cemetery! There is a fourth cemetery that also has some of the unidentified but Fairview is the most famous. Not enough time for those who chose this tour because of the Titanic connection but we had to fight the rush hour traffic back to the ship. We learned about the Great Halifax Explosion on this part of the ride as we passed that site. There is so much more to see and do if I have ac chance to return. We arrived five minutes before sail away! No worry since this was a ship tour. Buffet dinner was followed with meeting Nora, Don, and Deb for the final performance by Paul Stepien who plays so many instruments. He dedicated Amazing Grace to the Ukrainian refugees in his homeland of Poland. After that we settled in the Crow’s Nest for a farewell conversation with Lynn and Mylee, Deb, Carol and I all exchanging contact information and reliving the highlights of this cruise and talking of plans ahead.

St. Pierre and Miquelon, France (Yes France!)

These are not Canadian islands! France has owned and controlled these dots in the Atlantic for more than 300 years. The people speak French and, although they understand some English, they are reluctant to admit it. Many, even professionals like the pharmacist, do not understand or speak English. Upon arrival we were each given a small French flag. The signs were only in French. Everyone was trying to find a bakery or café. They one that was open had a line out the door! People joyously waved their baguette in the air if they were lucky enough to get one. The Cathedral was small but very pretty. The plain plastered cement building had the center of the entry façade made with stonework. There are plenty of stones and rocks available on these ’rocks of the ocean.’ A holy water font stood empty at the entrance – covid protocol in place even here. Sanitizer was there instead, as in all the churches we visited. The sturdy wooden pews held Catholic hymnals and missals. The pipes of the small organ were on the side of the church. Above the altar was a beautiful stained glass window that occupied the whole wall. Therefore the crucifix was at the front but to one side facing the center aisle. I have not seen that before anywhere. Another thing that I have never seen is a triptych stained glass window in honor of Pope John XXIII. As a newer saint most churches already have all their glass in place. He must hold a special place in the hearts of these parishioners. Further on our walk we dodged cars as the sidewalks were hit or miss in location. The broad red pavement had room for cars and people with the understanding that it was the people who must move out of the way! We browsed through the tiny grocery store. It had one room chilled for everything that we would usually find refrigerated and all the produce. I checked at the open pharmacy for an eyeglass kit, hence my knowledge that the pharmacist was not English speaking. When I left there Carol, who was waiting outside, started pointing down the other street. I thought she was just letting me know that was where she was going. But no. When I turned the corner the bright yellow building had a big black rhinestoney pair of spectacles hanging as a sign. Yea! An optician! Inside the one lady understood immediately what was the problem. The optician herself laughed at the now fraying thread holding my glasses together. It took a bit for her to find the right screws but she fixed them and even replaced the good one. Just as at home there was no cost. Feeling confident that I would be able to see my way home comfortably we continues our stroll. We met a lady who was from Chicago. She lives in a building across from the entrance of the Museum of Science and Industry in the same place that our old family friend used to live! After chatting a bit she joined us. Carol, Susan, and I became a trio exploring the delights of a small French island community in the North Atlantic. There was a little fair going on in one of the back streets. Just for us I am sure. The guitar player and a lady singer were entertaining in French. A few booths of hand crafted items including cheeses or paintings had a small crowd around them. Someone said a store had handmade chocolates so we went in search of them to no avail. It did bring us to the town square where dancers in colorful French peasant or fisherman or artist attire demonstrated several folk dances for us. The introduction to the dances was in French so, sorry, I am too rusty in it to be able to tell you what the dancers represented. But it was a nice way to spend a half hour while perched on the edge of a raised flower bed. There is a ferry to go to the islands of Miquelon or Langlade. We did not go as the time would have been tight since we did not do it first thing in the morning. We did see members of a ship tour stuff themselves into a very small fishing boat and head out so we think that is where they were going. I would not have liked to be on that excursion! They could not even all sit down and life jackets were no where in sight although there were most likely some on the boat somewhere. Miquelon is uninhabited and has a few well maintained buildings remaining from previous inhabitants. Mostly it is for hiking. As the afternoon progressed the skies darkened and clouds began to gather. Taking streets we had not yet seen we turned back toward the tender landing. Just after we got back to our cabin the skies opened and I was glad we had not ventured further. Maybe next time. There is always so much to see and do that you just have to pick and choose what seems the most enjoyable for that day. Back on board we had a coffee and a tea at the Dutch Café. We shared a Dutch pancake with berries. Then time for team trivia with Deb and some new people whose team had gone to Scattergories instead. Only two games being played today and they were scheduled at the same time. Who is planning these activities! Later we had a light dinner. The lovely lady singer had a new program today. Jamila did a very nice set of Broadway and movie classics and even some Duke Ellington ending with a stunning version of Hallelujah. All much more my kind of music. Then Deb, Carol and I found a nice corner of a closed lounge to just chat and catch up on Deb’s latest projects. We caught Rita as she went by and we all agreed to not go up and join in the games but to have a quiet evening together. A perfect ending to an interesting day…AND I can see again!

St. John's, Newfoundland

Yea! Finally another port which did not require tendering. We were docked right in the heart of the historic district. After breakfast in the buffet Carol and I walked ashore. This is a beautiful town and, like a classic New England town, everything is distinctly and steeply uphill from the shore! Since we were walking around on our own, I stopped to ask one of the police officers at the exit if he could tell me where to get my glasses fixed. I lost the screw and after finding nothing on board, sewed the temple on! The closest place required a taxi ride to get to or a bus ride to the mall. I will try in Halifax. Harbour Drive ran a short ways along the shore. When it ended we climbed up to Water Street. This seemed to be the heart of the historic district. Boutiques and restaurants lined the inviting avenue. Restaurants had staked out space with wooden rails to define their outdoor dining. Many tables and chairs were already occupied with ‘boat people’ enjoying a morning coffee in the bright sunlight. Mostly the men were sitting and gently kvetching about their wives who were window shopping. Most stores weren’t open yet but the street was already so lively it was fun to stroll. The colorful houses in their pastel paints cling to the cliffs above Harbour Drive Water Street. The area is known as the Battery. Some of the more Avant Garde buildings were cleverly painted with things like sleepy eyes in the upstairs windows and smiling mouths in the lower one. Some even had slogans inscribed on them. Not exactly graffiti, more like a statement of belief in the good life! It is very reminiscent of San Francisco in the Hippie days. We continued on toward a lovely little park honoring the dogs this for which this area is famous.: The Newfoundland Hound and the Labrador Retriever! The Newfie and the Lab are smart, loving, protective family pets around the world. They can be trained to do so many jobs to help their humans with everyday life. Larger than life sized statues were in one area with literary words of praise even back to Lord Byron! At the Waterfront it was great fun watching the little children climb up on the dogs. One little girl loved putting her hand into the Newfie’s open mouth and laughing as she pretended that it was biting but she could get her hand away before it did. Theodore, about 2, laid on the decking to watch the Jelly Fish. Mom held a tight hand on his shirt as her tried to reach for them far below the dock. He moved on to the dogs, then to run along the paths. We all knew Theodore as we heard his name often! Children are the same everywhere! The real purpose of the park is to honor the men and boys who lost their lives in the Royal Navy Flying Service during WWI. In both of the Great Wars Newfoundland was critical to the supply chain of both men and goods for the wars in Europe. There is a beautiful statue illustrating how fishermen became sailors. The Fishermen who lost their lives to the sea are also honored. The park provided a peacefully restful respite with lots of benches to sit and enjoy the view, the children playing, the colorful flower beds, and the sail boats weaving in and out of the Narrows! We climbed up past the monument, through the park to Duckworth Street. On Duckworth Street it was strictly residential. We were surprised to see that some of the homes even had single car garages. I don’t know why that was a surprise but it was. Still the San Fran feel was real. Narrow townhouses with their windows open to the warm sea breeze perched on the hill side. It seemed that everyone had a dog of some kind to walk and all were well behaved, both the friendly people and the dogs! We walked at a leisurely pace stopping to take pictures of pretty buildings and signs. Many of the houses are painted in pastels with bright trim. Most of the doors have entryways to allow you to take off your boots and to prevent snow or nor’easters to blow into the living room when you open the door. They also have steps, 3 or 4 or more, from the sidewalk. Raised porches which have room for but one chair – maybe. A lot are like row houses, attached, tall, and narrow. These are very steep hills up from the bay! But the killer is the sidewalks! There are rough bands of cement across them. This is to allow water to run off. Before that will be rough rectangles to allow for drainage to maybe prevent ice forming. The sidewalks become built in staircases! Cement steps that had no railings made me happy to have my walking stick with me. We ventured higher up Victoria Street to Queens Road. Here the Basilica Cathedral of St. John the Baptist dominates. The grey fieldstone façade was set off twin square towers with clocks set in them and a plain cross over the doorway. I have not seen clocks on Roman Catholic churches before. We were lucky that the church was unlocked and open to visitors between 11 and 1:00. Their were several tour guides inside who were happy to answer questions or walk you through the church to point out some of the unique features. In front of the alter was a glass ‘coffin’ containing a pristine white marble statue of the recumbent St. John. The guide said they did not have a relic, unusual in a Cathedral or Basilica to not have. But they did, over at a side altar dedicated to St. Theresa of Avila, known as The Little Flower, a relic of hers … but was not sure what it was. Carol and I continued to walk around on our own. When we left we were stopped by a man who wanted to know if we were “from away?” he was great to talk with because it was especially interesting to try to discern what he was saying with his broad accent! He had been a fisherman for many years but when the cod was fished out it became harder to make a living because of the strict limits on the crab and lobster. He confirmed what we had learned from our cruise director and our speaker: the money is in the lobster and limits are chasing fishing boats out of the market. We continued our walk and found ourselves at The Rooms. This modern building houses the Provincial Archives, the Newfoundland Museum, and the Art Gallery of Labrador and Newfoundland. If I had been with Elva we would have spent several hours here but Carol and I were so enjoying the bright sunshine and jacket free weather we kept going. At the Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Baptist we also found willing guides to lead us through the dark, musty church. Stained glass windows here were being repaired making for a lot of noise and dust. It was an interesting place in direct but not complete contrast to the Catholic Cathedral. It seemed sterner. But they had a children’s play area right in the cross of the church just before the altar! Surprising to see a Fisher Price Farm and pulpit in the same glance. Route or trail signs were posted at some street corners. We had found ourselves on the ‘church route’. Six major edifices were in the trail and each was interesting in its own way. Another route led to specific homes of historic personages. The town is very walker friendly … as long as you can handle the steep inclines. We did not go up to Signal Hill and Cabot Tower although we had a beautiful view of them from our balcony. I had done that when I was here ten years ago. They are very interesting and you can read about them. It is here that Marconi received the first transatlantic wireless signal. On our way back to the ship we learned that at two o’clock there would be a parade on Water Street to celebrate Stanley Cup winners, the Colorado Avalanche, and hometown boy Alex Newhook! I was going to walk the block back up to watch the event just because my new son-in-law is from Denver and a big fan. No need. From Deck 3 of the Nieuw Statendam forward I had a perfect view up the side street, past the Murray Premises, of the parade route. So yes. I saw the Stanley Cup and got pictures and video to share. Since the beautiful day continued I took myself to Deck Nine Aft to enjoy the view from the pool and hot tub! I haven’t taken enough advantage of that. Back in the cabin a hot shower felt great after the uphill hiking. Since we were in a narrow bay the ship had to turn around to leave and our balcony was the perfect place to enjoy the sail away. High above on Signal Hill the sailing seemed timed to the daily cannon salute. Lots of people were waving at us from the heights and from their homes and from what seemed to be evening picnics on the hillside. Deb, Carol and I enjoyed dinner on the Deck 3 level of the dining room and were quickly served when we let the staff know we wanted to be at the 7:30 show. Comedian Andrew Grose returned for a second show that was maybe even funnier than the first. We were laughing out loud so hard that at one point we had tears in our eyes! After that on Deck 12, Crow’ s Nest, we joined 11 year old Mylee, her grandmother Lynn, Sharon, and Rita for another rousing game night. It was the longest game of CLUE ever! We had a great day that ended with some quiet reading in bed. Carol is almost finished with her Janet Evanovich novel and I am midway through my second book this trip – How Iceland Changed the World!

St. Anthony, Newfoundland

You may be noticing that we are circling back. The cruise was New England, Canada, Greenland, Iceland circumnavigation, Greenland now back to Canada and back to New England. We have been seeing the Aurora Borealis, Northern Lights, every night! Not spectacular yet as it is early in their season and we are a bit too far South but every night between one and three am, people are out on deck really hoping to witness the phenomenon! Can’t wait to share my photo with you! 

I have been to St. Anthony before and at that time we did a tour. Found out a lot about the medical and social hero, Dr. Grenville.  On that previous tour we also went out to the famous lighthouse. The squat building is on Fox Point and makes for a lovely hike. Starting at the floating dock and walking up hill and down you come to the far shore. From there it is a level seaside walk which was great on this unusually warm day.

I chatted with a lovely lady, Michelle Patey, who keeps a beautiful garden at her home. The house itself was painted a deep navy with white trim. It was one level and L shaped. The garage was detached which, since she told me that starting in November the snow may be “treetop high”, seems impractical, even though the tree she indicated was not tall. She has her own greenhouse but still can’t keep it controlled enough to have fresh flowers in the winter. Just a nice lady taking advantage of the opportunity to talk to strangers whom she probably see only in the summer during cruise season!

 We stopped in the grocery store and were surprised that prices were not crazy considering that it is distant from the rest of the world but not isolated. Four very pretty bell peppers were 7.36 CAN and a chocolate bar was on sale for 1.25 CAN

 I chatted with Katie for awhile since this is Canada and should be included in my phone plan. So nice to hear her relaxed Sunday afternoon voice. She was working on her podcast for next weekend. It focus is true crime. Morality vs.Law. 

 We walked around town some more then stopped in the new information center briefly before returning to the ship. Still am unable to add photos for you so need another new system. Fell free to email me advise for when I get home. Enjoy!

Nanortalik, Greenland

After two days at sea which was not in the original plan, as you know, We arrived ahead of schedule this morning. By 7:00 a.m. they began lowering the tenders. Unfortunately we could hear the gear motors quite clearly. So we were up early. Slightly astonished by the unpredicted clear, sunny, warming weather which greeted me as I stepped out on the balcony to take pictures of the rocky shore fronted by bright white and glassy blue icebergs, I couldn’t wait to go exploring! A quick breakfast with the beautiful view and we set out. The tendering services have been very good and we were soon ashore. It was a pretty long and somewhat dangerous walk up into town. The path followed the curve of the bay. It widened to a potholed asphalt road that should have been one lane. Trenching was actively being done on the inland side and a shear rocky drop off was on the ocean side. Pickup trucks whizzed back and forth without slowing as they approached and passed the distracted, gawking tourists. Many using canes and walkers. Holland America is filled with we old people, some in pretty bad condition, none ready to jump out of the way of a slow walking donkey much less a speedy truck. Then there were the bulldozers and backhoes to contend with. It was like being in a video game to reach the town’s first street. As you might have guessed there is a lot of construction going on. Scaffolding is on the buildings, a wide trench which may be for new sewers or water lines. Not sure which. At the information center I spoke with Kristen who said that 10 to 15 cruise ships come here a year. Kristen is the sister of the Information Center manager. She was helping her sister out since Friday is Kristen’s day off. She is a nursing assistant at the nursing home. We passed the quite large, L-shaped, one story wood home later on our walk. We passed a parade of matching wheelchairs coming up the steep hill. Each was pushed by a determined young man. I guess the sunlight and fresh air was being enjoyed despite being cocooned by warm blankets and puffy coats. Carol and I walked through what seemed to be the main street to the church where I peeked in and listened to a choir concert for a few minutes. Further along but not by the church were remnants of a cemetery. Graves were unmarked except for an outline of large rocks. There were three modern headstones from the early 20th century. More random walking took us past the large, low school. It serves for K – 12 students. We climbed over boulders and down rocky paths back to what little pavement there was and headed toward the long tender line waiting to go back to the ship. Three boats dropped off tour groups and then all three filled for the return. All in all Nanortalik is a small fishing village. All types of boating can be done here. It saddens me a little when I see young people and old people doing what little they can to gain a few tourists dollars. A girl sang, a boy played a little drum. An older woman used a large white skin Tambourine with drum sticks attached. Back on board we had lunch at the deli, visited with friends, and are preparing to try to win Lightening Trivia.

Reykjavik, Iceland

It amazes me that I am able to say sentences like this: The last time I was in Iceland I spent the day in Reykjavik. I have always wanted to go back again! I am indeed a very lucky person – I returned to Iceland! A place most people never have a chance to visit even once! It has been amazing to discover so much more about the country and the people than what one sees and learns in a big city. But the big city has an allure all its own. I was really looking forward to going out to the very famous Blue Lagoon. Last February 2nd I booked and paid for the excursion. It was the first thing I did when we confirmed the trip. According to my D.K. Eyewitness book Top 10 Iceland (these are my first choice of guide books, check them out) The Blue Lagoon is not a natural geothermal bathing place but has been created into a resort like atmosphere from the runoff of the superheated seawater of the Svartsengi Geothermal Power Station. Ingenious creativity. The third day on the ship I was told the excursion was over sold did I want to go to the Sky Lagoon. It sounded nice and is a natural pool overlooking the sea. Smaller and newer etc. They were not sure about what facilities would be there as far as showering etc. I considered it for several days. I usually am happy to find new places but decided this time I wanted the iconic option so canceled and went to no lagoon. Maybe next time… I know that the thought crossed your mind, why if you booked 6 months ago did they just decide it was oversold? Why did the system let you book it at all? If they had told me or blocked the reservation I could have researched the other options and felt more comfortable spending close to $200 for a 2 hour soak! I definitely think that HAL's explanation that the mainland mainframe does not talk to the ship one is hogwash. Just like Onboard Credit was allowed to be accessed for excursion purchases for some things and not others. Maybe that is true as their onboard Navigator app is supposed to be used for dining reservations and room service orders but doesn’t work interactively at all, nor does their interactive TV. They need to clean up their IT department act! BUT all was not lost. I bought a last minute Hop On Hop Off bus ticket. The day was surprisingly beautiful, clear, and in the 60’s, not the predicted low 50’s and rain. The open top of the double decker (London type) bus was wonderful. The view was great. The city was bustling with hybrid or all electric traffic, scooters, bicycles, construction, and tourists. I know that at least four cruise ships were in port but our 2000 passenger one was the largest. We passed the simple two story “White House”, Hofoi House, perched at the seashore where Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev ended the Cold War. It was not open to visit so I rode on. The all glass Harpa stands in magnificent beauty nearby. Home to the opera and the symphony the acoustics were terrific. Reykjavik even has its own Big Band that calls Harpa home. There are at least a dozen large and small museums on the route and numerous parks and churches. Like every modern big city there is a giant shopping mall and more restaurants of every nationality than you can count. They seemed to be in their own little strips, each with the same varieties, perhaps chains. Plan B Burgers, Vietnamese, China Dream, SmashBurger, Little Tokyo and always KFC! I didn’t go into Perlan (The Pearl) which is a creative building consisting of five cylindrical water tanks that were no longer in use. They are joined together and topped by the mirrored glass dome – the pearl. The space houses a technology and design permanent exhibit titled the Wonders of Iceland. Outside a Zipline went from the fourth floor over the trees to the side of the sea. And, yes, ‘over’ the tree tops at just four stories high. Iceland has a short growing season and is reforesting after foolish destruction of old growth forests. Hallgrimskirkja gives away its purpose in its name. ‘Kirk’ nearly always means ‘church’ in Nordic languages as well as in the British Isles. This Lutheran Cathedral took forty years to reach its towering height of 240 feet! Perched on a hilltop, hexagon in shape, with arches layered inside to match the ones on the exterior roofline, it is visible from anywhere in the city. The stark, Scandinavian design is bright and simple. The bright ice blue fabric bench backs can be flipped so that attendees can see the service at the alter and pulpit or focus on the 5,275 pipes of the organ in the loft at the back. The organ itself sits in full view at the back side of the church. It is posted with a sign reading please do not interrupt the organist while playing. An upcoming concert features 13 different organists play in an all day event! Outside the front of the church is a more than life-size statue of favorite explorer Leifur Eiriksson. We know him as Leif Erikson. He is seen atop a large swooping base as though looking forward from the bow of the ship. Perhaps seeing Iceland for the first time. We all know that Erikson means son of Erik, or Johnson is the son of John. I learned that many Icelandic names, or Scandinavian names end with “dottir.” Yes, that would mean the daughter of Eric or John for example. Or in the case of heroin Gudrid Thorbjanardottir apparently the daughter of…well, you get the idea! I was surprised how many people were excited to go to Kolaportio Flea Market. It was a two story department store sized building in a prime main street location adjacent to things like H & M, a major shopping experience. We continued past the airport were we stopped for a bit by the Icelandic air transfer busses. You can fly domestically to this airport but need to take the 49 K included bus trip to the International airport more inland. I figured if you flew into Reykjavik you landed in the city but the property is too limited and therefore too valuable to waste on jet runways. Back on board I decided to create my own lagoon experience. The sun was bright and warm so I put on my swimsuit and ship provided bathrobe, took my book and beach towel, picked up iced tea on the way and went to the unroofed pool on the back of the ship. Two bartenders were stationed there, a guy was smoking a cigar and reading a book in the smoking section, and me! I had the hot tub all to myself and enjoyed the bubbles. Can’t read when bubbling so enjoyed the view of the city and the many birds including Arctic Terns of different kinds swooping and swirling against the blue sky and fluffy white clouds. I then just relaxed in the warm water and read several chapters while cooling off with my tasty tea. A quick dip in the cooler salt water pool and I had the spa experience without the travel or cost. A very pleasant hour. Back in the cabin a very long, very hot shower felt great. I dressed and went for a late lunch/early dinner and enjoyed the view from Deck Nine. As tour busses and private vans unloaded their passengers I thought I had made a great choice for myself for what could have been a very disappointing day. Then on my balcony I watched as crew members played games, sang, and danced on the dock. It was a celebration of Indonesian Independence Day. Good to see the crew having fun. They really work hard on the food service side. I enjoyed reading and sort of watching for Carol. Her tour was quite late coming back. Everything started late, I knew that ship clearance for some reason was delayed that morning. When she did return I had dessert with her while she had dinner. Her Golden Circle tour was good although she didn’t enjoy how much time they spent touring the power plant nor the people who returned late to the bus after stops. It prevented the tour from spending enough time at the Gullfoss or the Geysirs to walk around on your own and really enjoy these highlights. The evening entertainment was the movie The Infinite Storm in the World Stage Theater. We decided to just hang out with friends and enjoy a drink and the sail away. The bad news was delivered that we were not going to be able to visit Grundarfjord the next day. The approaching storm would not allow safe tendering. Instead we would take two days to return to Greenland which would allow for a safer, more comfortable sailing in high seas. I had looked forward to this last Iceland village. We had booked a tour to the countryside to learn Iceland traditions and culture. I wanted to learn more about the Berserkers! We first heard of them on our South Pacific cruise in January. Look them up, they are a real thing!

Djupivogur, Iceland

Djupivogur (djoo-pea-vo-gore) The Dj sort of runs together, like dew with a j snuck in! Accents are difficult also as the language is lilting, so the middle syllable goes up. It is, after all, based on Norwegian and so has the same emphasis. The Norsemen, Vikings, were the first explorers and settlers. The town is perched on a tip jutland between sea and bay. The population is 400 hardy souls. Fishing is, of course, primary to the incomes of the people but mineral mining is the main industry and accounts for the most of the exportation income. The mining operations are longstanding as is evidenced by the pyramid look to the mountains. Carved in perfect squares from the top down, it is definitely strange to see on the open landscape. The main attraction is a lineup of ‘eggs’. Signs guide you up and down hill to the “Big Egg”. Before following the signs we first walked around near the dock. Many got off the tender and headed straight to a café housed in a large, red painted, wooden building. The line outside was long. The wind was whipping off the broad opening from the large, round bay to the North Atlantic causing everyone to make sure their hats were snug and their shoulders hunched against it. We followed the sidewalk which made us laugh. All along, about every 20 feet, two alternating signs directing people back in the direction we were coming from, were painted on the pavement. One a light blue circle with a large white WC. The other a yellow snail with white WC. Very funny as they were on each of the walkways up from the dock and well into the ‘town’. I can’t imagine that they have enough visitors to need to be so informative! Surely in this tiny dot on the map that the citizens would be closer to home and surely not need direction to the town bathroom! We wandered up hill as far as the school with a similar big bouncy platform as in Seydisfjordur. Chatted with a lady who is on our ship from Scottsdale, and went into the grocery store where luckily Carol bought chocolate candy for her friends. It was hard to find something made in Iceland, but she did. Deb had said there was no yarn in this town. She did not go to the grocery store which did indeed have a rack of special yarns. Several people were sort of planted in front of it deciding what to select from the limited supply. We then followed the sign that said “Eggin I Gledivik” or “The Eggs of Merry Bay”. It was about a mile walk along the shore on a gravel and river rock type stone to the mining warehouse. On pillars at the edge of the bank were highly polished egg-shaped stones of varying colors. The first stone was indeed a big egg. It represented, in both color and proportionate size, the egg of the Red-Throated Diver, the official bird of Djupivogur. The other 33 eggs were approximately the same in size but a variety of colors. All together they represented the 34 native birds of the area. Walking back past the Ice-Fishing plant we peeked in the café as Carol was hoping to find a gift shop that might have a magnet for her fridge. No luck. We tendered back just as the rain began to fall. Dinner in the dining room with Deb and a couple whom none of us will want to join again. We have not had a lot of good luck at larger tables this trip. They were definitely annoying. She had them bring the menu from the Asian restaurant because she wanted ‘flavor’ but didn’t want to pay the upcharge. That added a good 20 or more minutes to the wait for food. He spent the whole time telling us how they travel so cheap and never pay anything extra. Well, that then was the proof. Also they each traveled only with one carry on bag! 24 nights! And yes we have not seen them in any other clothes since then. He also spent a good part of dinner trying to get us to buy his tour tickets because he booked conflicting tours in two ports! After we escaped the three of us went to the show of the new entertainer. He was a wonderful guitarist by the name of Greg Rodman. His Les Paul guitar was his hearts desire. When, at age 11, he won a national contest his parents bought it for him! We eagerly await the big day tomorrow in Reykjavik.

Akureyri and Seydisfjord, 8/11-12/22

When we left Isafjordur I was very excited. We had talked with Dr. Douglas while on shore. He knew that they were making no announcement of the fact that to sail Isafjordur to Akureyri the Captain would have to chose the route that crossed into the Arctic Circle. If not he would be sailing at some points within 8/10 of a mile from the shore. No way a ship of this size could risk that! So yea! I have officially been to the Artic Circle and all seven continents! I have crossed the Equator and the International Dateline several times each. I am a very lucky person. So happy to add the Arctic Certificate to my treasure trove of travel! 

Yesterday we visited Akureyri which is the second largest city in Iceland, population about 18,500. We had a tour at 12:30 so we went out early and wandered around town. The large group of knitters on board were even earlier. As we left they were returning with bundles of new yarn. 

We walked up to the Akureyrarkirkja which is a very large church towering over the town, sort of like the Temple in Salt Lake City. Not in style but in presence. All the churches we have come across so far are always locked. Strange in that they keep telling us Iceland is the safest country in the world! Some of the stained glass windows were brought from England’s Cathedral in Coventry. (The Coventry Carol at Christmas) Others proclaimed heroic Icelanders from the distant and not too distant past. The exterior is a greyish concrete face with white stone towers overlooking the sea. There are about 100 stairs to climb the grassy hill in the middle of town. Oddly there is, below the cross, a clock face! The bells chime on the hour and half hour. 

The apartments near the docks, warehouses, fishing boats, cafes, and the church were in neat, square, concrete four flat arrangements with large windows, balconies, and plain colors. The Danish influence is obvious…boxes in muted colors. 

After a fast lunch back on board we made our way to the theater for our four hour tour to the countryside. We traveled through the city and learned about it’s history as a premier fishing (everything here is fishing industry) exporter. It is located on the longest fjord in Iceland. Something we really enjoyed later as we sailed away during dinner! 

Our first stop was at the Lystigarour Akureyrar Botanical Gardens high up on the side of the fjord wall. Very much like the one we visited the other day but significantly larger. The gazebo and the fountain on either side really set off the beautiful blooms. Many of the these were classified as Flora Arctica. The greenhouses held the more delicate flowers we might have at home. It would have been so tempting to have a hot cup of chocolate and a delicious strudel at the tiny wooden café. It was warm enough to sit outside but we had no time to stay. 

Back on board Bjorn continued his narrative of culture and lifestyle on the island. Iceland is an island country like Greenland. The early explorers crossed the names of the two to keep others from landing or settling in Iceland. They wanted it for themselves. 

Our next stop was the amazing Godafoss. The falls are named for when Christianity first came to Iceland in A.D. 1000. In the 10th century there was a position in a community known as a law-speaker. They would stand upon a high place and proclaim exactly that – the laws of where they were. Remember that most people couldn’t read and CNN wasn’t telling them a version of the news every hour on the hour! Porgeir Ljosvetningagooi was the law speaker. (How does anyone know this!) He declared that Christianity was to be the true religion and threw all of the statues of Norse Gods into the Ice-Blue river and waterfall. The shape of Godafoss is very like a smaller version of Horseshoe Falls at Niagara. The similar curve and dense flow but also a small island at the crest like Goat Island. The river that forms the falls is the longest in Iceland, Thjorsa. 

Back on our warm bus we made our way up along the side of the fjord to Laufas Heritage Village. Similar idea to what we have Williamsburg in Virginia. Several homes, barns, churches, stores and a schoolhouse have been relocated from other parts of this area of Iceland. Most fascinating are the ones with their turf roofs. One of the turf farmhouses has re-enactors describing the memorabilia of 19th century North Iceland. The church pulpit was carved in the 17th century. 

Back on board dinner was sparse. We didn’t understand why only one station was open on the buffet! Lasagna, very good, was the only offering. Not sure why that was but we didn’t feel like changing. 

The entertainment was Part 2 of the BBC Planet. It was shown on the triple, wraparound screen in the World Theater while the Lincoln Center String quartet played the music from the TV soundtrack.The 10:15 sunset was spectacular. 

Today has been very low key. Seydisfjord is a tiny town of 850 people depending on fishing and tourism. We tendered ashore while the Viking Mars was docked. Smaller town, smaller facilities, smaller ship. This town is not at the mouth or base of the fjord but along the edge part way down. The overcast sky and low hanging made us doubly glad that we did not spend over $300 to drive out to a place to hike to another waterfall! We slept in until 8:00 a.m. and then had a leisurely breakfast in the uncrowded Lido Market. Many passengers had already left the ship for their active tours. We went to the tender about 10:00 and chose to walk around town looking at the colorful houses in the narrow space between the water and the fjord wall. The cheerful wood, or cement, or corrugated homes were surely painted to brighten the long winter. I loved seeing a row of bicycles parked next to the; Papa’s, Mama’s, Big Brother, Little Brother and a pink one for Little Sister! 

The grocery store was about the size of a Domino’s pizza store. Jam packed with cruisers from two ships we stayed only a few minutes. We passed four cafes with guests drinking hot beverages at picnic tables. Coffee in Iceland is said to be delicious. 

The old hospital with its red wooden exterior and green framed windows is now a hostel. It sits beside the two story grey and charcoal new hospital. A school has a playground with a giant air-filled bouncy platform. The pharmacy, hardware store and things were closed as it is Sunday. We saw local families out with children riding bikes or walking around, probably gawking at the crazy people who came to see their town. 

Most of us came to see their natural landscape and wilderness. On December 18, 2020, as though the pandemic wasn’t enough, there was a massive avalanche. The most devastating of all of Iceland’s many such events. Mercifully no one was killed but 13 historically registered homes and buildings were destroyed. Floods carried some away. The people rebuilt some and not others. We read the sign with the story on the way to the slender tall falls we could see from our balony. (Not the one the tours were going to visit.) 

The rain began to drizzle as we walked to the narrow falls above the village. The gravel path would have allowed us to climb along side of it but we opted to not be sliding down wet gravel on the return. The pictures were fine from where we were. Two hours ashore, real rain by the time we returned to the ship for a cozy afternoon. I took the opportunity to write to you and now say goodbye as we head to meet friends for dinner in the dining room. 

P.S. we have a new entertainer on board, Jamilia.  She has a lovely voice and we look forward to hearing her again!

Sea Dayswith Holland America Nieuw Statendam

Love sailing and that is unequivocal. There are a lot of great things on the Nieuw Statendam, that is for sure. And like everything in this ongoing post-covid era so many things have changed. It just isn’t the same.

 We sailed Viking in January and there were some changes but this seems more of a let down. Comments in the dining rooms that we have made and that we have heard from others are very strange. “That was pretty good.” “This isn’t too bad.” “the spaghetti in the specialty restaurant was a big clump!” These have never been words spoken on any cruise ship that I have ever been on.

 Holland America, a 150 year old ship line which has a long history of pleasure cruising, should be listening and figuring out what is causing these comments. One complaint, or more of a statement on what people like and dislike, is that the buffet – often the crown jewel of cruising – is difficult to maneuver. There are many stations. Great. If you know exactly what you want and it does break up the crowd. But if you want, for example, beef but don’t want the rolls or sides at that station, then you are in line at two or three places. By the time you have assembled the meal you want, the one you chose to buffet instead of dining room, your hot stuff is cold. It might have been warm when you started but it can take 15 or 20 minutes to just get meat, potatoes, some vegetables, a roll, and maybe a salad. Yes, of course, start with the cold stuff but then you will go back and forth, up and down the line several times. 

The ship has had very good entertainment. Cantare, a really good quartette with a very structured dance routine for every song, has had shows on two different nights. We were glad they were performing again tonight but it is a reprise of their first show. Really. They can’t come up with three different sets to perform! The same with the only speaker onboard. Did two great talks on fjords, volcanoes and such where we are traveling, Dr. Michael Douglas (not the actor) and then a reprise. Hyperion Knight, same story although the very entertaining pianist did also do an afternoon Name That Tune concert. Such a good personality and fine musician. 

There is not much going on onboard. Trivia is at 6:30 p.m. Hello, you are either at dinner or getting ready for dinner or cocktails. Maybe that is why no one shows up. 10 a.m. on port days and none on sea days! Who made up the game schedule? 

There is a lot of, and I mean a LOT of nickel and diming here. By that I mean, sample spa sale. Yellow diamond raffle. During the scenic cruising of the sound there were 13 separate opportunities to support the shops and studios on board. Thirteen! They must make some money off this but I have yet to see anyone come out of a shop with anything. 

The Music Walk is a feature of this new ship. Sailed first in 2019 and then had a long rest. All along the center of Deck 2 open to Deck 3 are venues featuring bands and singers. We enjoy the jazz and pop tunes of B.B. Kings space. Even had a cocktail there one evening while they played and sang and we watched couples dance. You can immediately tell who has been together a long time! Rolling Stones, not so much. Way too loud! It is across from BillBoard OnBoard with its twin baby grand pianos. Of course they don’t all play at once but have a rotation that includes the strings quartette on Lincoln Center Stage. Small bands play in various locations with lots of chairs and tables for drink service. What is really different is there is no loud music in constant rotation by the pools. 

The Crows Nest, forward on 12, is our after dinner go-to most nights. We meet friends there for a chat or even a game. One night we taught Carol to play Sorry! The bartender there, Jamaica, will serve up delicious drinks but also my favorite Earl Grey Tea in a large go-cup. No go-cups at the Lido for do it yourself service which is luckily 24 hours. But try carrying a small mug down four flights of stairs on a rolling ship in the North Atlantic at midnight!(Yes while sailing we do a lot of walking. Back and forth and up stairs and always down!)

Qaqortoq and Sund

Qaqortoq (Quor-co-tock) and Prinz Christian Sund, Greenland We arrived to pleasant weather despite forecasts of rain. Since it was a tendering port, going ashore by lifeboat/tender, we enjoyed our breakfast and picked up ‘tender tickets’, boat assignments. We did not anchor until 10:00 a.m. and we know the ship tours go first so we left about 11. The town looked a little bigger than when I was here last time. Yes, that is a funny ting to be able to say! Carol and I wandered around the pretty little town filled with red roofed white buildings. It is tucked into a curve at the entrance to the sound when going East to West. We checked out the grocery/appliance/clothing/hardware/ if you want it we have it store! Since Greenland is part of the Danish empire the Krona is the monetary system and the exchange rate makes the dollar look good enough. Divide every price by 7.8 to get the USD conversion. Lots of people were stocking up on Danish Chocolate. We were looking at a little red church but couldn’t go in as it was locked. We took pictures of the wildflowers and the babbling brook. When a ship tour came along and went it we tagged on to the end of it. The talk had similarities to the one we had in Red Bay. The population moves away and the fishing and seal industry can’t draw them back. Qaqortoq is much more isolated than Red Bay so struggles. They want to be independent but can’t survive without Denmark subsidizing the economy. Qaqortoq is situated at the edge of the ice cap. Transportation in and out is difficult and is mostly by boat. The long summer days create some vegetable production but the even longer winter nights drive the economy to be able to be less functional in those months. Bookstores and knitting shops do well here as do musical instruments. A couple of container ships were unloading here today. I am sure supplies must be stocked up in the next 60 days or so. No real agriculture can make it nor cattle ranching. Flat land is sparse, the mountains rise from the sea and not far behind them is the unending ice. We had passed icebergs floating and could see snow and ice clinging to the mountain tops. Icebergs were already in the harbor. Tourists do come. I saw some land by helicopter and others come from a small boat by taxi. So yes, there are some happy people here. It attracts adventurers, hikers and is a regular cruise ship stop on North Atlantic crossings. Prince Christian Sound (Prinz Christian Sund) zigs along the southeast coast and separates the mainland from the Farewell Archipelago. It is an all day scenic cruise which we greatly enjoyed. The walls of the fjord rise sharply from the sea. Waterfalls are narrow but plentiful. Lichen and hardy greens create a light wash over some of the lower walls while various rocks tower high into what today was an overcast but then clear pale blue sky. In one of the turns of the sound sits a tiny town whose name I do not know. It hides at the base of the fjors behind a large boulder. The population in the last census was 50 brave souls. There is no way in or out except by boat and then of course only between late May and early September. Last time I was here we dropped off slour, sugar, medical supplies and fifty pizzas! Nothing this time as COVID rules still interupt human interaction Carol and I enjoyed the views from various indoor locations. Last time I braved the cold and winds but this time though ‘been there-done that!’ The did serve Dutch Pea Soup on the Deck 5 Bow. Had it been Dutch Hot chocolate I might have ventured out!

Two Countries

 Day 5! Red Bay, Labrador August 7, 2022

Okay friends. I think I saved the nice opening story of our journey to One Drive to which I have no access here sine I did not pay $450 to have onboard WIFI!  Perhaps next time ashore it will occur to me to retrieve it! In the mean time…

Yesterday we were in Corner Brook, Newfoundland and people really do ask if you “come from away.” I had booked a basic tour because I thought it would take me away from the town and out into the country side and it did. I left with Group 8 for the Highlights of Corner Brook. We are docked in an industrial area next to the mill that makes newsprint paper. It is the only place a ship can dock as there is an underwater natural shelf for most of the shoreline. That would only allow for a 20’ draft. Too close to call for a cruise ship captain. 

I don’t need to tell you that it is a small city. It only took a few minutes to reach the center of town where there are 3 Tim Horton’s! Starbucks has closed!

Our guide, Charles, is the former Mayor and was proud to point out the City Hall ‘he built.’ He pointed out among other things the new hospital and what it cost. The new high rise – 9 stories tall. The new Walmart on the outskirts of the town. The bank that is boarded up because last week ‘some dumb fool’ drove a backhoe into it to try to steal the ATM machine. They were now successful.  He pointed out where the criminal now resides – the new jail!

When we got to the top of the mountain we visited the Captain Cook Monument.  The charts he surveyed in the 1700’s are still used today as a reference to support the 1998 survey. There are shoals in the bay that the ’98 survey didn’t show. On re-inspection they were indeed there.  So navigation is basically on the 1738 or so.

We drove back through town, past the steep championship golf course and out the other side back up another hill to Marble Mountain. They have several slopes and one lift for each two runs. Short runs where we were and long ones on the backside of the hill. Ski season is mid December to mid February usually.

Here there was also a Zipline. The ‘catcher’ was happy to chat, had never lived somewhere…a common phenomenon here. As we were leaving a girl got stuck midway across the Duck Pond and the catcher had to hang on the line to make it more taut.  When that didn’t work our last sight of the scene was him inching his way to her to bring the lady back to dry land!

We then went to Man in the Mountain. This possibly seen, depending on your imagination, depicts a man in a hat looking down over the Humber River to guard the Shelter Island where pirates buried their gold! Canadians must have a lot of time on their hands to think things up. The river did have many kayakers, river rafters, and canoeists enjoying the warm summer sun before winter comes.

Upon returning to the ship I met Carol in our cabin. She had taken the provided shuttle van into town and walked over to what turned out to be a beautiful, large park along the waterfront. There were trails, waterfalls and ducks.  She really enjoyed it before coming back on the van to warm up.  I wore shorts but I think it will be the last chance for that until maybe when we return to Maine.

She told me there was WIFI in the harbor building we could use.  The set up was nice. Lunch tables and chairs and a sunny window warming my back. The signal was good and I thought/planned to post a good story of the beginning of the trip and several pictures downloaded from my phone.  Could NOT find the document!  I usually can deal with computers but am a little annoyed with myself now and will next time bring my laptop with me. I promise myself and you!

We decided to have dinner in the dining room. It was the first time as we have been buffeting it until now.  We actually each showered and put on nicer clothes and made our way to Deck 2 for Open Dining. No line at all. We asked to share a table but when the other people came they chose not to sit with us as they spoke German.

My steak was delicious and Carol enjoyed ravioli. Service was fast, the food was good. The view was nice. We decided to do the later show so wandered through the music venues. On this ship they are open areas and each plays for 45 minutes and the next seamlessly picks up so there is no overlap. BillBoard is the piano bar with dueling pianos. A lady at one and young man at the other.  He had a really nice voice and she played very well but her singing seemed a little harsh unless she was in her lower range.  But the song choices suited us.  A little Buffet, Glen Campbell, Fleetwood Mac and Carole King seemed welcome after dinner.

We still had a little time to kill before the later show violinist show would start. We went up to the Crows Nest/Explorations Bar to see if our friend Deb was up there knitting. She was not but as we were going about Nora and Dan said hello and they had just started a game of Sorry. Did we want to play.  Carol said she never had played before. So of course the game we played was long, and lots of laughter and calls of SOORRRY!  And, of course, Carol won! 

Deb came in but left before we finished so we have yet to tell her we will meet her at Pinnacle Specialty Restaurant tonight for Carol’s birthday celebration. We were invited to join Nora and Dan to celebrate his birthday/60th wedding anniversary! We couldn’t get a table for 5 and had already asked Deb so had to decline. In a few days we will meet at Cannoletto to celebrate Deb’s birthday. 

It is amazing how quickly it seems we gather friends when we cruise.  Some may become real friends over time like Lyn and Rod from Australia, Donna and John from California, Judith and Manny who were supposed to be with us on this trip. We miss you Manny and Judith! And Hue and Byung from way back in 2013 on our trip around South America. And, of course, Elva!

Canada, New England & Iceland

Our first port was Sydney, Nova Scotia. It is a lovely little town with tree shaded streets. Such friendly people all commenting that in this town of seafaring men they ahd never seen such a large ship. Niece Statendam is pretty much medium sized with 2,000 passengers and 800 crew. We met Brent and talked baseball with this native Nova Scotian. He was supervising a roofing crew. And yes, for them a 78 degree day was the equivalent of about 98 by us! He wanted to keep talking and introduced us to the neighbor across the street. When Brent told Kevin he was trying to find some free wi-fi for us to use, Kevin offered and really was insistent that we use his. Kevin wanted us to come sit on the front porch. We demurred and he then said we could just go in his back yard and sit by his pool to use it. He really was disappointed that we said we had to keep going. Very nice people. Everyone we talked to, re-enactors at the Church of St. George, the first Anglican church built to serve the ‘losers of the American Revolution who escaped to Nova Scotia and settled here’, the young girl manning the donation fish bowl for the St. Patrick’s Church and Cemetery, random men and ladies enjoying the sea breeze to cool on their porches, all were so friendly. We were very happy to not have been part of a walking tour of the historic district. We would not have had the chance to stop and chat, pet the puppies, and hear about a very thin, bearded, old man’s 13 year old black cat with amazingly hypnotic green eyes! These are the ‘moments to remember!’ On the way back to the ship we strolled along the boardwalk and found a shady wooden wall upon which to sit. So many locals were walking their dogs so, of course, I got in lots of petting. Fellow cruisers were returning to the ship carrying all manor of souvenirs. Lots of people bought skeins of beautil wool even though they weren’t in the knitters group. There was a craft fair at the Canadian Legion Hall and it seemed very popular. I think they picked to day to have it as our ship was welcomed by the Hall sign. Maybe because it was the largest ship any one had ever seen! Sydney is not on many itineraries. The shallow waters only allow for a cruise ship with less draft. What a nice walk we had. As we were going back on board an ambulance had arrived and the EMT’s were rolling a lady off the boat. Not far behind her was a friend with all the luggage. Crew had helped her to repack hers and her friend’s suitcases as there would be no time for whatever the sick person needed and be back before sail away. What a sad ending for what was surely a long awaited vacation of a lifetime!

Packing!!

Usually packing is not too complicated.  Some nice clothes to wear on the ship or to a special event ashore. We have been to concerts in cathedrals, dinners in palaces, parades in castles! Also when ashore we may hike out to a geyser or waterfall. Visit a temple, shop in craftsman store, stroll in a park, or climb a mountain (okay, it is just a big hill!).

Because it is a long vacation with a variety of accommodations, countries, and weather systems, packing was tricky. We can expect lots of rain in Iceland, strong winds, and very cool temperatures, 41degrees in Akureyri! It will probably feel good after the sweltering summer we have been experiencing! However, 41 + rain + wind requires personal protective gear. Lined boots, I will wear on the plane to avoid packing them, maybe long johns, definitely my puffy coat, hat, gloves and a rain poncho! Yes I am from the South so that screams winter to me.

I also need shorts and tee shirts for Boston, Bar Harbor, and Halifax. On board the HAL Nieuw Statendam I may also want to wear them. Being on a cruise ship requires daytime clothes like you might wear if you were going our with the girls for lunch - nice but not fancy. There are dress up evenings, which for me means black or navy slacks, not jeans (never allowed at dinner time in the dining room) and a dressier top.  I have a sequined black sweater which does nicely. I no longer bring very dressy things like you might wear for a party or wedding. The theme party this cruise is the Orange Party.  Several cruise lines have a White Night but Holland's national color is orange.  I hope my University of Tennessee Grandma shirt will do!

I like to pack using plastic bags that let you remove the air so more fits in a smaller space.  First I gathered what I thought I might need and lay it out on the bed or a table in sorted piles. Now that I have a chiffarobe I liked stacking it on the shelves to add and take away things.  After a few days I put in the bags then the bag which will be checked. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the roll aboard bag is what I need at the hotel the day before. my rain coat, and enough clothing to survive until my checked suitcase shows up!  I have only once had it not be there when I landed and luckily that was on the return.  It was delivered late that night.  I read, though, that things are more difficult now and airlines are struggling to even have baggage handlers report to work.  (Let's stay on task here and not talk about delayed and cancelled flights!)

My friend, Anna, sent me a link to a Packing for Iceland blog post.  What to Pack for Iceland Looks like an interesting blog which maybe I will follow.  It did give me reminders about how gloves, hats, warmer clothes are needed even in August. She took one carry on bag which works great for a short land trip. Most importantly, both she and I recommend layering!

My 'personal' carry on has medications, first aid, back up batteries, and my trusty laptop! I am sure I over packed but I do not want to pay for laundry even if you do it yourself!  I may have to use the clothes dryer available it my jeans or cords get soaked but i can pack enough underwear to get by. And I have enough tops to allow for enjoying spaghetti and spilling my tea!

Speaking of following blogs, if you haven't yet joined me please choose to follow and you will be notifiesed when new posts are available.  Since I won't be purchasing wifi on Holland America for $15 a day, the posts will come a little randomly and perhaps in clusters when I go ashore!  Why not follow and we will see what happens together!