Tuesday, October 23, 2018

Fatima

Fatima
On days in which we will change hotel destinations we leave the current one at 8:30 in the morning.  bags out by 7:30, breakfast and bus.  Today our first stop was in Tomar.  Here is the Convento de Cristo, the castle built in the 12th century by the first Grand Master of the Knights Templar.  It was quite interesting to hear the story of how these monks who took vows of poverty became the wealthiest order in Christian Europe.  Although the sleeping rooms were sparse, cold, and made of simple materials the church was not. 

The chapel was in a circular tower and the altar sat amid an inner circle of splendid carved pillars.  These were adorned with remarkable sculptures.  One was of the Blessed Mother at the foot of the cross with St. John.  The height of the ceiling allowed this lower statue to be on what would be the second floor of an ordinary home. 

This Manueline monastery has eight ‘cloisters.’  In this case cloisters are demonstrated by an open patio with four covered walkways around it.  This arched and decorated passages are on two floors.  Here these have descriptive names.  The Bread Cloister is where the monks gave bread to the poor.  The Washing Cloister held reservoirs for washing the monks robes. The men are buried around the Cemetery Cloister and their tombstones pave the walkway.

Visiting here makes me want to read up more on the Knights Templar and how they transformed themselves from impoverished monk-knights into a group so powerful that they were feared by both the church and king and were forced to become the Order of Christ.  In Manueline architectural elements you can often see the Templar Cross.

Our next stop on the way to Evora was at Marvao.  This tiny town is completely enclosed by the castle walls.  We drove up quite a height and then exited the bus to walk uphill quite a great distance.  The narrow street first passed tiny shops and houses and doubled back where the buildings became a little larger.  Surprisingly cars zipped up and down the cobbles. 
We reached the castle and climbed even higher and it was worth it.  Looking out over the plain toward the mountains our view was of Spain. It always mystifies me, at times like this, that we have wars.  There are no real boundaries between countries, only those we create in our heads.

On the way back down we paused at a perfect formal, English Garden.  Small topiary baskets rested on the end of the low walls.  A fountain sang in the fading sunlight.  This primness was in the foreground and the wild hills were behind. So pretty and refreshing.  I wish we could have stayed longer.

When Nina counted heads, back on the bus, it turned out three of us were missing.  Someone said they were just entering the shop as the others wee leaving.  Nina ran up the hill to find them.  Fifteen minutes later, when they all returned I wish I had seen that shop.  Estella bought a beautiful Nordic, cardigan for her husband.  I am sure anyone could wear it and prices are cheap in Portugal.

Our final stop along the way was the stunning Fatima.  As we departed the bus in Fatima the deep, rhythmic sound of many voices raised in Gregorian chant filled the air.  We arrived just as the Sunday Mass was being attended by thousands in the open air in front of the Neo-Baroque, limestone, Basilica.  It is a breathtaking sight to see so  many faithful people praying together.  Nina said that this is a typical outing for a Portuguese family.  Of course, there were bus loads of tourists at the outer edges of the congregation.  A second Mass was just beginning in the church dedicated to the Holy Trinity.

While singing along with the hymns and prayers, we walked around the right side of the plaza and up a short flight of stairs. Many people were looking over the railing and the multitude was waving white handkerchiefs.  I think this was symbolic of praying for peace which is a key part of the mystery of Our Lady of Fatima. We walked right up to the gate which a deacon opened the moment the priest left the space and the procession ended.  By doing this we were the first people to climb the Basilica steps to enter the church where the three sainted children are buried.  Ferdinand is on the left side as is often dedicated to St. Joseph.  On the right side are the tombs of Jacinta and Lucia.  Although the miracle of the appearance of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary happened in 1917, Lucia did not die until 2005!

The massive church dedicated to the Immaculate Conception and Our Lady of Fatima is a brilliant white.  It is a very modern relief from all the old stone cathedrals that are typically visited on European tours.  Inside colorful windows portray the story of the young shepherd children who had a taste of heaven.  The statues above the tombs are particularly unique and four dimensional as they are extended from the white washed walls.

After leaving the blessed quietness of the nave of the basilica we went down the broad steps and crossed the plaza to the enclosed site of the apparitions.  Low benches allowed us to sit in contemplation briefly.  Pilgrims, mostly, but not only, women completed their circled the altar on their knees.  This is the 21st century so many were wear knee pads.  People were leaving crutches at the site and there were many in wheel chairs.

We left and went up into the town and found a nice sidewalk café to have our sandwiches. After awhile the ladies went to get gelato – a running theme this trip – I stopped in a store to buy a new rosary.  It seemed appropriate. 

Doreen and I went into the new Basilica of the Holy Trinity.  This super modern, expansive church is breath taking.  The wide curved nave is filled with plain dark wood pews.  The ceiling above seems to undulate.  Behind the simple white marble altar is a floor to ceiling, wall to wall curved golden and white  mosaic created with what must be thousands of tiny tiles.  Touches of pink or blue enhance some of the figures.  Beneath the front of the altar is a small glass jar with what looks to be white cotton in it.  Against this material sits the bullet removed from Pope John Paul II when he survived the first attempt to assassinate him.  That a Pope would be assassinated was the final secret of Fatima fully revealed.  This church was dedicated when the Pope came here to give thanks to Our Lady for his survival and to pray for peace.

We finally made our way to Evora arriving at the planned time of eight o’clock.  It was a lot of driving today and a lot of emotional stuff for me.  Glad to settle in for the night quickly.  No bathtub or hot tub so just off to bed.

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