Tuesday, March 6, 2018

Sugar Train and Great House




This morning we are signed up to ride aboard the Sugar Train for a tour of the inland of St. Kitts.   Our little van took us over to the train stop by way of a scenic tour of the island.  We met together with Carol before leaving the ship so that we could be in the same group.  She is so nice.  A trivia player that I had recruited but then she had too friends with her the first day and two others had joined us so that didn’t work out.  Always smiling and happy, she very much reminds me of someone but I can’t think who.




The little open top train is a narrow gage that follows the rails that were laid to transport the cane from the fields to the factories.  We were sent to the first car so it was quite noisy behind the steam engine.  The seats faced each other which made it a little hard to see.  We faced the ocean most of the way so the view way nice enough.  It was hard to stand up as the train jogged down the track because there was a bit of space between me and the people across the aisle.  Maybe the Pina Coladas at 10:30 in the morning didn’t help!

Elva Me, and our new and good friend Carol!

Down below were restrooms and tables and chairs but the open sides turned the fresh air into a delightful breeze on the 18 mile trip.  We learned a lot of history, of course, and about the difference between sheep and goats at first glance.  We also crossed four bridges with the clever names of the First Major Bridge, the Second Major bride etc.  A trip of very pretty girls serenaded us with fun songs like we used to sing in camp and also Negro Spirituals.  I know they were pretty because our car had the microphone and so we could see whoever used it.



When we got back we had a fast turnaround for our included tour.  But at least now, by this point in the trip, things are meshing better.  Elva decided to skip it.  She once spent three weeks on the island recording headstone information at the big old cemetery.  No need for her to have more history.  Carol and I took the tour together and enjoyed it.  Part of the tour repeated from the morning but mainly it went to the Fairview Great House of Basseterre.  

The Great House is the remaining evidence of Plantation wealth on the island of St. Kitts.  The sugar mills are just chimney like structures without their sails and in a crumbling state of neglect.  The Caribbean sugar industry is a thing of the past.  All of the commercial effort and hope in these islands was invested in the growth, processing, and sale of the sweet result of sugar cane.  They don’t grow or manufacture anything that can be exported.  Their biggest import is, of course, tourism.  

 I could not capture the whole manor house in one photo.
There was a double staircase  surrounded by bougainvillea to take up the hill to the front lawn.


Since I was not on a very tall ladder you can realize that his view of the grounds is from the internet.

But three hundred years ago the plantation system was thriving.  Sugar was money.  It was traded for everything a prosperous slave owner could desire and this house with its magnificent style and evident wealth flaunted that success.  The massive original dining room table of pure mahogany still shines with well-worn care.  Original armoires and leather couches share the spotlight.   The volcanic rock bake house with its wood fired oven would be perfect for a modern day pizza place but once served to serve up delicious and extravagant meals to the visitors to this ‘family home.’  The entire upstairs is the master suite with its own indoor privy.  The high studded ceiling and broad windows and doors flung open to the sea breezes would have made sleeping magical.  There was a mosquito netting canopy folded back between the four posters of the oversized, larger than king size, bed.



 View from the little office or library.


 The total description or 'tour' was given standing here!

 
 Master bedroom privy.  One of three in the main house!

The balcony and broad porches were inviting as they wrapped around for views of the ocean and the well maintained grounds.  I can’t say the lawns were manicured but the low growing spongy grass was bright green, almost mossy.  Weeds were the darker green patches.  The garden was carefully labeled with signs that were almost larger than some of the plant.  The identified plants seemed to all be trees which really makes it more of an arboretum than the suggested botanical garden.  All the trees seemed to be storm damaged and struggling to make a comeback.  Fairview was worth the time and the visit.  I am glad it was part of the included tour.  The property guide was nice but gave us her spiel upon entering and then sped away in her little black car.  Maybe because we were the last tour of the day.  So there was no one to answer questions.  For example, Carol and I wondered why there appeared to be a large tub with steps into it in one of the out buildings.  Seems it would be for bathing but then it also seemed to be in the servant’s quarters.  There appeared to be stable doors or maybe it was a triple garage of some sort.  Why would it be attached to the kitchen if it was three hundred years old?  No cars then and I would think horse stables and food don’t go together.

  Stable and Coachman apartment, or garage and Chauffer residence?

 I really like this wide walkway.

 Trees on recovery but the property takes all the space between the ocean (seen above) 
and the mountain behind it.

 Kind of a weird place for the sign.  By a weaving loom and I guess a bathing tank.

 This is about six feet long, at least! Maybe four wide.
On the way we noticed both during both tours there was a place between the road and the shore that the trees, actually thorny shrubs, were blooming with large white flowers.  Upon closer inspection, they were not flowers at all but egrets!  The egrets seek refuge along this stretch of road because of the thorny barrier.  Otherwise they are easy prey for the many feral cats and other predators on this lovely island.  It is a funny site and reminded me of the Moroccan goats in the trees.  When I commented on this, Carol said she was just thinking the same thing!  Our guide said that at sunset you can’t even see the trees or leaves for the coverage of the number of birds hiding there for the night.  It looks like the bushes are covered in snow!

 This tree has not been TPed.  
These are just a few of the egrets seen through the bus' not too clean window.

By the time we got back there was no time to walk around the inviting port shopping area so I changed and we watched the sail away from this beautiful port.

The flag of St. Kitts Nevis welcomes us back to our little boat. 
At least next to Carnival's Fascination it seems that way!
When we are on board it is more than enough and very quiet by comparison.
  
  Love that infinity pool off of Deck 7.

 "Believe it or not..."  This is our Captain.  Every day at noon he agave us two Believe it or Nots!
(No one is holding him or putting him down but just then someone in front of me start to clap!)

  The dancers performed.

 This is John, one of the six singers, three men and three women.  He was also the comedy host!


From up in the Explorers Lounge we watched the lovely island of St. Kitts with its mountain that looks like a fluted cupcake fade into the distance as the sun set.



 Elva and I went to the early show of ABBA.  Not a ‘tribute band’ style but well down and the last big performance for the kids.  Such a small by might cast.  Eight performers all together and many amazing performances.

The LED light screen enhanced all the performances.  
These are not projections and are created by the tech team on board. 



Notice how designs carry over to the side screens.  
Sometimes the side screens would blend and sometimes were different.


Afterwards we went out to the Aquavit and ate a very delicious specially prepared Caribbean Buffet.  I had made to order swordfish on the grill, the first time I had ever had it and it was delicious. Elva had Jerk Chicken.  The moon was full in the dark sky.  We both commented on how at some points the cruise seemed to never end and, and now, here it is almost over!

No comments:

Post a Comment