Bourg and Blaye

Okay, let me get it out of the way.  This elegant old town is pronounced without the R. 

They say Boug.  I cant help but wonder if these residents are known as Boogers!

 Fresh fruits and vegetables from the Wednesday market and more wine were delivered.  Bourg is always a Wednesday restock day!

This morning we went out about nine for a walking tour up the steep hillside of Bourg.  The steps up were not too challenging as they were relatively even.  Located quite next to our ship it only took a short time to reach the top.  Problem was that since the schedule had been rearranged everyone who did not go on the Cognac Tour to Camus, where they created their own versions, was in one large group.  Feliz finally got the AudioVox to work and set out.

 The ancient wash house is a popular hide out for hooky playing teenagers.  

We didn't find any as school is on holiday.

 Two pools - one for wash and one for rinse are fed by a spring.

 The Moorish house at the top of the steps above the spring.

As we climbed the many steps there was a place to pause. A stone niche housed three free running water spouts pouring forth from the cool fresh water spring.  It has done this since the city was first founded and only a few hundred years ago was encased to keep the bounty from overflowing and washing away the foundations of the city wall. 

 Spring has flowed non-step since the days of Charlemagne.  

Rumor has it that he himself spent time here.

We do not usually have such large groups but the schedule change meant the local guides were all up the road in Blaye.  Luckily the AudioVox system allows us not to be in earshot of the guide.

Bourg was a town of Royal Retreat.  It also was a shipping and transfer center since it rises above the Gironde just beyond the confluence of the Garonne and Dordogne.  Feliz pointed out a lot of interesting buildings including one with definitely Eastern influence.  The half moon and stars were on the river side of the home that had been built by an advisor who had once been to Muslim territories.   It did serve a great purpose perched as it was at the top of the steps.  The river/ocean breezes were able to 'air condition' the home.

The rocky face of the town was once daunting to invaders and below the citadel was a remaining shipwreck.  The river captains know it is there so even at high tide they can avoid it.  These three rivers all have tidal influences because of their proximity to the ocean.  Every morning and night the captain would have to untie the boat and ride the tide before re-docking.  Often he would take advantage of this to do a dinner cruise.  Well, why not?  We enjoyed the views out the floor to ceiling windows and he couldn't be tied up anyway!

After reaching the upper city we ventured through the old city gate to the market square.  It isn't market day today but the covered market holds interests as the iron work supporting the roof calls to mind the builder immediately.  Eiffel designed the canopy and it was built in more than one town.  I never realized the extent of Eiffel's influence.  In checking him out on Wiki I see we will again come across him on our trip to Portugal in the fall and in Manaus in February! Eiffel Bio

We continued through the old gate of the Citadel and peaked down on the King's Staircase.  There are many in this world of travel.  (These were not the stairs we used but a narrow, uneven, well worn, set of steps rising from the river's edge.)   Here the story is that the young King, enjoying the summer retreat, was trying to reach a fig from the still nearby tree.  Being only 6 or so, a kindly Monk lifted him on his shoulder to pluck the succulent fruit.  When this was seen, the Monk was immediately sentenced to death as one simply does not touch a King!  His mother, hearing the story, commuted the sentence and recognized the young Monk's kindliness.  He became tutor of the king.

 Our boat behind the trees.

 Sail boats in these towns have a very hard time as part of every day they are 'beached.'

 A pretty view from the Citadel garden.

 Laying a plumb line to edge by.

The Citadel is a well maintained park and the elegant ballroom is now available for parties and is especially popular for evening weddings as the sun sets over the river.  The gardener was edging the paths with a power trimmer and a plumb line set to define a crisp edge!


We walked back to the Church of St. Geronce.  It is distinctive and is described at the town office of tourism website (I do my research before traveling!). "Discover this beautiful Romance Church of which the bell-tower is topping by a stoned Virgin. Built with the local limestone called “du Bourgeais”.  Love the nuances of translated information!  Not sure Jesus mother has been ever described as such before!  But it is a beautiful church and one has to appreciate the remarkable ability of people building such an edifice without the help of modern technology and heavy duty equipment!

 The first time I remember seeing stained glass within an altar  It is artfully lit from behind.

Now as to the limestone which was removed from all these towns along the river.  Limestone will wash away but in the case of early technology, the limestone was removed and taken to build Bordeaux which is less than 25 kilometers away.  At the various wineries we visited, the caves left by the quarrying were significant to the success of the vineyards. They are natural wine cellars always keeping the cherished vintages at an even 53 degrees F.

 Elva and I continued our morning with a walk further up the hill, past the demolished 'Wall Church' , part of the original wall.

 

We checked out the local Carrefours for souvenirs of which we bought none.  We passed lots of shipmates with bags of candies, after Easter sale, and specialty soaps and more wine!  As we walked along the main street Elva chose to return down to the ship when she found a comfortable street to walk.

I continued for awhile and spent time in another overlook park.  In the park above the ship.  Dedicated to soldiers from this small town who died in the many wars of France.

To my surprise there were chickens and roosters roaming free and enjoying a shady search for grubs. 

 

 The street I chose for return had a series of steps zig-zagging to the lower cross street.  

I also passed beautiful homes with lovely, well maintained gardens.   

 A look back from whence I came.

 I love random, almost misplaced touches of beauty 

like this lost iris and rose outside a small home's back wall.

 There was a field of horses quietly grazing.  Just near the dock was a small cafe readying to open. So peaceful to have your own horse in your own yard and yet be in town.

Getting ready to open for the day the excited conversation gave me pause.  A babushka-ed mother was berating the daughter to hurry her while she was looking for supplies in an old style home freezer!  

And remember that cool water spring?  Every day the town maintenance crew fills the giant plastic containers on their tractors and carts to water all the town flower beds and containers and hanging baskets!

Back in more than enough time for lunch we enjoyed the view from the AquaVit Terrace and staked out our table.  We really enjoy eating al fresco.  The lunches here, instead of the dining room, are lighter and still are full service.  Today was a broccoli soup and sandwiches.  There is always salad and delicious freshly backed baguettes.  And of course dessert and wine!

Since we couldn't sail during lunch to the sunken dock we soon boarded buses for Blaye.  The short distance, 13 km, took us past riverside vineyards and through tiny villages where our buses were maybe the biggest things to ever navigate the narrow cobbled streets!

Know for red wines here we visited the 17th century citadel of Louis XIV.  He, once he was more grown than the fig seeking child of Bourg, wanted something more grande than the old place.  He had that pretty much abandoned and partially demolished to prevent an interloper from using it against him.   The famed Vauban Bolt and the Blaye Citadel is a massive fortress boasting a star shaped wall providing perfect viewing in every direction.

Although we climbed high up on the wall this overview is from the tourist website.  

It shows not even half of the 55 acres of extant remains.

The broad outer moat is crossed then the thick wall gate is entered by a bridge.  As castles did, the town was located and there are still shops and now restaurants within the walls.   A hospital for the soldiers and townsfolk is built in the wall.  This was not the best place to take care of the sick - dark - damp - musty.  Two rooms were higher up on the wall and actually had views to the outside and therefore a chance of survival for the occupants.  The other three rooms were deep within the wall and pretty much a foreshadowing of the graves the occupants would soon occupy.

 

 

The opposite bank holds remnants of Fort Medoc making this a treacherous place to try to pass thereby successfully protecting Bordeaux upstream.   Here at Blaye barracks remain for the 9,000 soldiers who worked in three shifts.  Each barracks room had two beds, one man was always on duty.  The room was the width of a door and a window.  There was a small garden space so the soldiers could grow fresh vegetables to supplement their rations. 

There was an area of the town, not far from the barracks which had many women who provided services such as laundry and cooking ......

Also within the walls was a convent.  In this case it was filled with monks.  In France no matter the gender of the believers in residence the institutions are called convents.  It was interesting to see and there was an art exhibit on display as well.

 Love the staircase.  Wonder what is at the top of it?

 The ceiling over what would probably have been the altar space as the floor below is raised.  

Or maybe a dais where the Abbott would have sat to preside over meals eaten in obedient silence!

 Typical inner courtyard - except for pretty tourist peaking out!

Elva and I slipped in and out of the various small antique shops and felt that we had more than enough time to explore the areas of interest.  some of our fellow travelers sipped wine at the cafe and a few had ice creams.  The local guides chatted and waited until the exact moment they were scheduled to guide us back to the buses.  Upon leaving we realized that there was quite a lovely town with 'shoppes' and restaurants just across the street from where we were.  Many complained that they would have enjoyed a stroll there and better shopping had they been allowed. Had we been docked as planned there would have been lots of extra time.

 This woman lived here.  Having your picture on the door sure makes it easy for friends to find you.  The home is still occupied but I suspect by a younger generation.

 This young boy probably was glad to be watching this giant but beautiful dog 

rather than be in the shop with Mom and grandma!

By the cafe a Lady Banks, my favorite rose, was formed from where it clung to the wall into a beautiful hanging basket shape.  I may have to try this at home!

Not sure why this large, three sided sculpture was just outside the convent!

 

 No one will be sailing until the tide turns.  Downtown Blaye!

How convenient to have pillars in the parking lot for while waiting for the busses.

On the return drive we took a route along the river known as The Corniche.   Here the river captains had built beautiful homes with their shipping wealth.  Well manicured gardens led to the river edge.  Steps at the backs of some of the houses led up the steep cliff so that the family children could climb up to attend the school in town.  Sadly this cobbled road was an afterthought.  It cuts the properties in half.  The captains hadn't needed a road as their ships docked right there!  To the left as we traveled were the homes and to right right the gardens.

 The small Captains Church!

I stepped out of the returning crowd to snap a couple of dockside photos back in Bourg.

 The virgin protects the Captains and their ships.  

That is why the one in town tops the steeple high above the river.  

This is more of a last minute reminder dockside.

Kids will be kids!

Back at the ship we had a demonstration by Chef Cesar of how to make Macarons.  Note, these are not macaroons.  No coconut involved.  But sweet sandwich cookies of a light an airy nature.  But Chef made the St. Emilion version which had finely chopped almonds in the cookie part.  Not my favorite. After this all of us who were interested crowded into the tiny kitchen, although larger than on the smaller ships.  Quite a streamlined production.  Chef Ramsey probably could not even find fault!

 You can see how we literally filled the kitchen from these photos.  I am as far as can be on one side and others are opposite with the kitchen in the middle.  The exception is the dishwasher who is behnd them with a sink positioned in front of a window!

 Chef Cesar explains expediting and how the I-Pad helps to plan the portion control.  The crew gets the leftovers the next day and eats an hour before the guests!

Next was Feliz' presentation on future cruises.  I already had purchased certificates on the first part of the ship so we just enjoyed hearing about and seeing pictures of the ocean ship Sky which will take us up the Amazon next February.

During dinner we sailed so that we could see the view of the Citadel that we had missed by not arriving in Blaye by ship.

Dinner was, as always, delicious and afterward we joined in the Big Fat Quiz.  Our team came in second.  When the first place team won bottles of wine but were already on the Silver Service package I think it should have passed on to us.  But they just hand the bottles over to the nearest folks.  No worry though as pretty much we are getting 'wined out' already!