Hello again. On Tuesday I leave for Morocco so have been studying up.
When I returned home last Spring and reread about my French rivers trip I was really embarrassed. I vow to be more careful before posting this time. Elva Smith and I will be traveling for two weeks with a company called Smartours. When I toured The Galapagos and Machu Picchu with them, (you will see me in the center of the group photo used in the advertisement), I found that the schedule was busy with included tours and travel. There will be a lot of down time but I suspect that since this time there will be six hotels in as many cities or towns there will be a lot of internal travel. I suspect much of our free time will be spent on buses or trains or camels!
We begin with notorious Casablanca before going on to mysterious Marrakesh. We will cover the country from the seaside at Essouira, through the High Atlas Mountains, to the Sahara Dessert at Erfoud. The alleyways of the Medina in the capital of Rabat and the Kasbah in Fez will surly require an intense exploration.
Please join me as we explore Majestic Morocco together. Choose to follow my blog. It is free and if you sign in each time you will be able to enjoy all of these stories and be ready for my next adventure as well.
Sunday, November 1, 2015
Saturday, April 25, 2015
Farewell France – Hello Home – and the nightmare in between!
After a late night, thanks to my usual night before travel
jitteriness and lack of sleep, 4:30 a.m. came way too early. Ruth and I both seemed to wake up at the same
time, about 15 minutes before our alarm was set. Each of us, when on our own, is capable of
being up and ready to roll in twenty to thirty minutes, but two ladies
traveling together need to extend the time frame to allow for modesty and
talking! We had our suitcases in the hall
and were on our way to breakfast on the Aquavit Terrace at five. Had to call and cancel the back-up 5:15
wake-up call on the way out of the cabin.
The ship was sleepily approaching the new day. The darkness around us was emphasized by the
glowing lights of the Papal City to our starboard. A buffet of fruit, cereal, rolls, and yogurt
was set. Typical of a European
breakfast, there was also a selection of meats and cheeses. I made myself a couple of croissant ham and
cheese sandwiches to take along. You
never know when you are flying what will be served and when.
Back in the cabin a final potty stop and tooth brushing, one
last look around our home away from home, and we were on our way to our airport
chariot – bus. We said goodbye to the
desk staff as we left our key cards and Mia, in her usual graciousness, told us
our bus was waiting. We were a little
early, our bags were not yet there. The
same staff that waits tables, and the few that are below decks dragged the bags
the block to the parking area. Directly
in front of our ship there was not a safe and easy street access. Every day we had been following this path but
there was some confusion at the limited street parking. Buses from different ships were intermingled. One day we boarded the German bus and that
might have been fun, but they quickly found us out! Maybe because we didn’t greet them with Guten Morgan.
This morning I waited to identify our bags while Ruth
secured our window seats for the hour fifteen drive to Marseilles from Avignon. The Captain herself was bringing some of the
suitcases as by now we were behind schedule and the 6:30 people were beginning
to gather. Even with the delay we had
plenty of time before our flights.
Viking has someone meet us at the airport and lead us into the terminal,
up a couple of escalators and across to the proper check in zones. Most of us were on Air France, a Delta
partner, and heading to Amsterdam. A few
were on a United partner to Frankfurt.
At ticketing, Ruth went ahead of me and we would meet on the
other side of security. I placed my bag
on the scale and it was tagged as soon as my passport was scanned. Luckily when the agent said I was all set and
to enjoy my flight to Amsterdam, I thought to ask if my bag was checked
straight through to Atlanta. He said it
wasn’t because I wasn’t going to Atlanta.
I told him that I had checked in online all the way through but he said
no, just to Amsterdam. He told me I had
no flight to Atlanta for me or my bag!
When I told him the flight number he asked for my ticket. My print out was in the big folder in my bag
instead of in the case with my passport.
Uh oh! So he said take my time,
not making those behind me happy, but I sure did not want to pick up my bag in
Amsterdam, go through customs, and recheck it.
As it turned out, that was an extra lucky thing to avoid! I came first to the very nice itinerary
booklet that Viking sends. In it was my
flight reservation number and he was able to quickly find me in his computer
and recheck me through to Atlanta. Yea
for small victories and peace of mind.
At security, the school teacher from Rochester N. Y with
whom we had had dinner one evening was stuck in security. She was in a panic. She had two bags to carry on. When her large carry on could not go through
she tried to cross to hand the small bag to her friend the CIA agent. They stopped her twice and then finally, the
security guard took her bag and handed it to her friend. It didn’t go through the scanner. They were trying to give her options and she
just kept asking, will they charge me to check it? She returned back toward the
check in…in tears.
I always get the pat down.
The new machines do not scan for metal, like a titanium reconstructed
knees. They scan for misshapen
places. Well, my left knee and right
shoulder always get little yellow boxes on the screen! After all, my shoulder has been described as
“road kill!”
On the other wide was the Rochester friend, the CIA agent!
{?} Didn’t think you could tell that to
strangers even if you were retired. She
explained that the school teacher, who had traveled often, put her Chateauneuf
de Papes wine in her carry on. It would
have been cheaper to throw the wine away than pay for a second checked
bag. The CIA lady had to use the bathroom
and asked me to watch her growing collection of carry-ons. While doing this, Ruth showed up. I was surprised since she had been way ahead
of me, I thought. Turned out she had
gone back to a pre-security rest room.
At security she had needed to remove her shoes but I didn’t. Not really very consistent safety plan.
We waited not very long for our flight and when boarding
discovered we were not seated together.
Probably because I always choose a window seat, not over the wing, so I
may have changed the assigned seating long before we left home. I must admit that I do not remember if they
fed us anything but I vaguely recall some sort of roll and several cups of
tea! The whole flight was pretty
unmemorable and the landing in Amsterdam was, as always, actually in
Haarlem. The taxi to a gate is about
seven miles over scenic canals and tulip fields.
When we finally reached the gate, Ruth and I immediately
started the long, very long trek through Schiphol. It is a very nice and somewhat unique airport. Much like Singapore, it does not have a
central security place so people can meet flights and see people off within the
airport. We separated toward our
different gates and the last I saw of Ruth she was saying she would see me soon
and making a Choo-Choo motion with her right arm! This was to remind me that I would be
confined to an evil therapy chair moving my new bionic shoulder after my
upcoming June surgery!
The reason that there is not a central security check is
that security is done at each glass enclosed gate. This is a great system. You are only in line with the 300 or 400
people on your same flight. Generally,
I really like this system as it is faster.
There is comfortable seating at the gate and you go downstairs to a rest
room area so that you don’t have to go out and in again. Very well thought out. Knowing how well this all works, I stopped in
the bathroom nearby before getting in the line.
I checked some email and texted flight info to Christine so she could
meet my flight.
When I got in the line it was longer than it had been. No worry.
Plenty of time. But I soon
discovered why they started boarding an hour and half before flight time! The first agent checked the passport photo
and that I was ticketed. There were two
lines. I tell you this because a
sideshow involved the Sky Priority lane.
I was waiting in my rather long lane when in the distance an
agent held up a bunch of computer cables.
I thought he was saying that someone left them behind. I was surrounded by chattering teenagers who
were excited about the week they had just spent in France for their Spring
Break Service Tour. Yes, school credit
for travel! Wow! Wish I had had that opportunity
at their age! Maybe I wouldn’t be a
travel junkie now! They began asking me
what they were supposed to do. I am used
to having to have my phone and tablet separated out for inspection but they
were not.
After about five minutes the man began waving around the
cables again. I listened more
closely. What was wanted, no required,
was that all tablets, all phones, all cameras, all chargers, all batteries, all
connecting cables must be placed in a separate bin for the scanner. Ohhh boy!
I travel with two cameras ever since in week two of a seven week trip
someone dropped and broke my camera.
Don’t want to go through that trauma again! One camera has a charger and five batteries
and a USB to connect to my tablet. The
other camera also has a two chargers and a cable to connect it to the tablet or
phone and about 10 batteries. They are
old and don’t last long. Then there is
the phone, and charger. And tablet and
charger. Also I was carrying two
converters. And some random things like extra battery and cable, clock and who
knows what all. It was not all in one
bag. A lot of things were but a camera
is always with me and not in a suitcase.
Extra batteries are too. Last
minute use of chargers meant they were sort of stuffed in here and there.
As teenagers swirled around me holding their cell phones
ready for inspection, I stepped aside and opened my carry-on and found the
large bag with most of the items. But
then checked around for the strays. While
waiting in line, clutching random electronics and a baggie of 3-ounce liquids
to my chest, the side show started!
A young black man, wearing large golden initials YRN heavily
hanging around his neck, went from the priority check-in line to the scanner
that he was directed to. It was separate
from the rest of us. One scanner for
the masses and one for the few. While he
was talking loudly on his phone to whomever he was going to be traveling with
he went right to the front of the line.
The ‘cable man’ asked him to get in the line. He loudly proclaimed that he was YRN and wasn’t
going to wait anywhere. He had ‘priority
check-in.’ Cable man told him so do all these people, go to the back of the
line.
“Hey man, I am YRN!”
“What’s that?”
“Young Rich Nation!”
“You are a nation?
Which one?”
“Young Rich one, I don’t wait for anything.”
“Well, you won’t have to wait once it is your turn. Go to the back of the line, which is longer
now that when we started!”
By now, two other bedecked, dreadlocked, scruffy men joined
up with him and the three had a loud conversation about being forced to wait in
line. They actually called someone,
maybe their manager, and complained and asked why he hadn’t arranged for
priority service!
Now that they had been thoroughly noticed, the young girls
around me were pointing and whispering. “They
must be famous!” Finally one of them was
brave enough to step out of our line to ask them if they were YRN? That in itself was weird. They cheerfully appreciated the recognition. The first young man even turned to the
security guy and actually said, “See, they know who we are!” Picture taking followed as girls singly and in
groups took pictures with them. All of a
sudden, YRN was in no hurry! I asked one
of the girls, who was already posting to Facebook, if she actually knew who
they were or had listened to their music before this. She said, “No, but they are famous. They must be good!”
Can you hear my brains rattling inside my shaking head?
I finally got to the scanner and put all my stuff in one
bin, and started to add my Ziploc of liquids when the man working it said, and
I quote: “You don’t need to put that in there.
Put it in your bag.” What? Huh?
Phew, such a weird thing. We went
straight onto the plane.
I found my seat toward the back of the plane and had a
flight attendant place my carry on overhead.
In the row behind me was “The Pilot Fish” and her husband. (That’s a whole ‘nother story!) I commented that we finally made it through
check in and wasn’t that a mess with everyone scrambling to find all their
electronics. She said in her usual dour
manner, well you should have known that we always do that. I replied that I knew to do my tablet, cell
phone, and camera but not all the parts. At least I never have that I
recalled. And to not do liquids, which
of course, she said she never does! I
guess before my next flight I had better brush up on the rules!
I settled into my window seat with my small, ever present,
orange Stihl stuff bag under the seat in front of my. A very nice lady from Douglasville sat in the
second seat beside me. She was a college
professor, author, and Mom of three. She
was returning from a conference in Newcastle Upon Tyne where she was a
presenter about the history of the Selma marches. We chatted a couple minutes and waited for takeoff.
I started to cough and thought I would take my prescription
cough ‘pearl.’ I didn’t want to be
annoying to those seated around me. Then
remembered that I hadn’t had a chance to refill my water bottle. Too late now.
The flight attendants were buckled in.
I realized I couldn’t swallow the tiny, round capsule. My tongue was becoming numb! As soon as a flight attendant was standing I
signaled him for a glass of water which he brought. By then my jaw and cheek were tingling. I couldn’t swallow the water. It was dribbling all over me and I was afraid
I would start spewing water everywhere.
And yes, I panicked. I stood up
suddenly and started to step over my seat companion at the same time I thrust
into her hand the spilling glass of water while she was trying to remove her
ear buds and stand up. No time for
that! I put my hand to my throat and
headed to the nearest rest room, eight rows ahead of me.
I shut the door but neglected to lock it. I was trying to wash my mouth out with cold
water and wash my face which was bright red with tears streaming from coughing
and choking. The door opened. The male flight attendant was trying to knock
but…… He asked if he should do the
Heimlich! I shook my head and he said,
you have to tell me no. I said no, I’ll be okay. He closed the door and pretty soon a lady,
who was talking to someone in the aisle, backed in, turned, and was shocked to
see me. She apologized and pointed out
that I had not locked the door. I locked
it.
I spent maybe twenty minutes in the restroom wishing that
the flight was already over!
It wasn’t over for another nine hours! I made my way back to the seat where my very
worried travel mate asked if I was okay.
I explained what happened. She said she sent the flight attendant
because she thought I was choking and she guessed she had just slipped into
“Mom mode.” I thanked her and we talked
a few minutes. Then we settled down to
watch movies. I couldn’t concentrate to
write or read. So I watched About a Boy which was really interesting and easy
enough to follow. Most of the times on
flights, I just listen for the background sound but miss a lot of the
conversation in movies because of ambient noise. Maybe I should invest in a noise canceling
headset.
I couldn’t eat when the snack was served and couldn’t eat at
the meal. Just couldn’t swallow
properly. I was really kind of worried
about it. (Two weeks later, my doctor
said during a regular visit, that I probably was swallowing but just couldn’t
feel that I was.) I drank a lot of warm
tea and ate a granola bar a ham sandwich.
I watched all the available episodes of Jerry Seinfeld’s Comedians in
Cars Getting Coffee. It is a kind of
funny premise. But the one with his old
friend and partner in crime, Michael Richards, was kind of sad.
I got up several times and walked around. Got more tea from the Flight Attendant in the
galley and kept thinking that the flight seemed longer than the one to South
Africa, which by far it wasn’t. Finally
it was over. Even if you were asleep you
would know the minute it hit the ground, oops, I mean landed. Every cell phone welcoming tune can be
heard! The conversational buzz picks up
and immediately people start gathering their stuff and the moment they can, it
seems that all the seat belts click open in unison!
I joined the rush to the exits and called Christine as I
walked toward customs. I answered a text
about a babysitting job and then put the phone on mute, as you are supposed
to. I knew the system so was speedy
finding an open kiosk for passport verification and proceeded to the second
line to have my passport stamped. I was
kind of wishing I wasn’t a citizen as only two officers were working our line
while a half dozen were on the other side.
Soon a third officer took his post and it was kind of
funny. His name was Knox. I refrained from starting a conversation and
didn’t ask if he was related to my son in law.
But he wanted to chat. My
passport is thick with extra pages and as he was leafing through, looking for a
place to mark it, he noticed the various visas.
He asked if I had worked for the airlines. When I said no he commented that all my
travel must cost a lot. He offered this advice:
“You know, it isn’t too late. You could
work part time in their office and get travel benefits. Then you would still have time to travel and
it would be a lot cheaper.” He proceeded
to ask me about Russia and Brazil. I was
polite, never want to mess with someone in uniform of any kind, but I cut it
short and headed to baggage claim.
I found the right carousel but didn’t see my bag. Someone commented that some were pulled off
already to make space. Weird, but there
was my bag off to the side where I never would have looked because I thought
those would have been unclaimed from previous flights. I was glad though as two different international
flights were sharing the baggage claim. Headed
outside and called Christine, who again was graciously picking me up. She couldn’t believe I was already curbside
so even though she wasn’t right there it wasn’t a long wait.
Christine is a good listener and asks all the right
questions. She got the short version of
everything but couldn’t believe how weird my voice was from the cough drop
incident. Back at her house, I hung out
a little and rode with her to take Christian to a party. It helped kill time so I wouldn’t fall asleep
too early and could get back on schedule.
When we got back, I collected Skeeter and headed home at last.
My usual routine is to completely unpack, start laundry, and
sort mail. It didn’t happen that
way. I went to bed right after a hot
bath and according to my Misfit, I slept ten hours. What a nightmare of a journey home!
Sorry
for the long delay. The cold I came home with held me in it's tight
grip for another week! And, as you know, once you get home, life gets
in the way of living! Soon, I hope to post some pictures for you.
Thanks for reading!
Monday, April 13, 2015
Beginning of the End, Saturday, April 11
Still in Avignon we are back on schedule. Breakfast was followed by the 9:00 a.m.
walking tour of Avignon. Our guide,
Catherine, was a heavy set lady who breathed heavily into the Quietvox
microphone and took lots of pauses and found lots of sitting places so we could
rest. In truth, she needed to rest. Demonstrating the laissez – faire we found
typical of our guides, she was not concerned very much by keeping her group
together.
As we wound through the typical by now for us streets we
could see there was a lot of high – end shopping available. Christian Lecroix was born here and his store
had prominent placement. Prada, Dior,
Givenchy, Rolex, and other names you know, were all cheek by jowl in one street
after another. The featured stop on this
morning’s tour was the Palace of the Popes.
Seven Popes reigned in Avignon until 1377 beginning with
Pope Clement V in 1309. He was
encouraged by the scheming of Phillippe IV of France. The Papal seat moved from
Rome during the wars there. The Palais
des Papes started as a somewhat modest castle.
Whatever their official status they were not all as saintly as you might
expect a Pope to be.
Clement V died from eating powdered emeralds to aid his
digestion. His successor, Clement VI,
felt that the best way to honor God was by exhibiting luxury. He began to expand the building and to make
more it more opulent. He enriched his
coffers and created a court for himself and Cardinals and Bishops were happy to
oblige him. Two Anti – Popes continued
to try to rule the Church from France until 1377 but by then the Vatican had
become the home of the legal Pontiff.
But Benedict XIII hung on in Avignon until 1403 when he fled in
disgrace.
The heavy stone walls encompass ten towers in a highly
military fashion reflecting the insecurity of religious life in the 14th
century. On the very top of one, which
is part of the church, is a 25 foot tall gilded statue of with her crown of
stars. The interior of the 148,000
square foot now stands empty except for some scale models, an occasional
‘cathedra’ or religious seat, a random trunk or wardrobe of the period, and one
magnificent tapestry. Screens show what
it must have looked like based on the remaining frescoes and the styles of the
time. There is a display of original
floor tiles. Carved and painted ceiling
beams are also from the early centuries.
In Rome, the Papal archives have original documents that describe art
works and ‘costs’. Most were donated but
a great value was placed on them.
When we left the stone cold structure, we continued our tour
stopping in several squares and even spending a little while in the Halles,
which means a covered market. The stalls
inside had every staple and delicacy you could imagine. At Le Jardin the white asparagus was 15 Euros
80 per kilo or approximately $16 a pound!
It was less expensive than the green which is less available in France.
We left the tour when the shopping segment started. It was an easy walk back to the boat since it
ended right where we had started, in Hotel de Ville square by the carousel that
has been operating there since it first attracted children in 1900. I have never seen so many merry – go – rounds
as in France. It seems every city has a
main, large, antique one and several more in the many squares.
A fast lunch on the
deck overlooking the palace we have visited in the morning. We had scheduled an optional (paid) tour for
2:00 p.m. Nothing fancy for me, just
salad and bread. We went to our room to get our recharged whisperers for the
visit to Pont du Gard. This is the
ancient bridge which was built as an aqueduct to transport fresh water some 31 miles
from a still active spring in Uzes to the town of Nimes.
The bridge is considered to the finest and is certainly the
largest, longest that the Romans ever built.
It consists of three rows of continuous arches. At the top is the water carrier. Since it is covered with flat stones but
still large enough for a grown man to walk through to clean you can imagine the
perspective that we saw. I was quite
surprised that the bottom layer is wide enough that a road was carried on it
alongside the base of the second layer
No longer can you drive on it.
Just a few years ago, when it became a UNESCO World Heritage site that
was stopped. Modern cars and trucks put too much stress on the arch. It is still the way to cross the River Gard,
but on foot.
We found the stony path and steps to the bottom of the 160
foot tall bridge. At the rocky beach
below, sunbathers enjoyed the spring afternoon sunshine under a brilliant,
clear blue sky. No one was swimming and
locals seldom do before mid-June. But
the water was so crystal clear that Gar could easily be seen swimming lazily
beneath the surface. It was amazing to
see from this vantage point. Knowing that
some of the lower stones weighed as much as six tons, and that the whole thing
is held together with no mortar except to seal the roof tiles, you can see why
it has fascinated so many for so long.
The total reflection made for a great photo. I loved it.
It is one of the few places I have had my picture taken.
We walked back up the trail to the free museum. It shows many aspects of Roman life in Gaul
but mostly focuses on the making of the arch, as it should. I would compare it to the building of the
Great Pyramid of Giza. Man power aided
by simple wooden levers and pulleys moved the cut limestone from the
quarry. A master builder decided the
placement of each and carefully had it placed against a wooden frame. When an
arch was complete, the frame work was removed.
Some was reused and other pieces no longer fit.
The water carrying roof of the top arch allowed a man to fit
inside for cleaning purposes. Every 50
feet there was an angular protrusion into the flowing stream to slow the
passage of the life – giving waters.
Above this was a one foot square hole that allowed for splash back
because the Spring of Uzes was so prolific and had a never waning powerful
current. This was indeed the perfect
excursion for both Ruth and I.
On the way back to the ship we had a brief stop at the
island in the Rhone. From here we had a
daytime view of the Pont de Avignon with the amazing Palais du Papes behind it
and our boat resting in front of the whole scene. Viking – “less time getting there more time
being there” and in this city it was true.
We were both so exhausted although we had only walked about
2 ½ miles - it had been walking in the blessed warm sun, on upturned river
rock, uneven stone slabs, not to code steps, gravel paths, and sandy beaches. This was our last day of a two week journey
from the Beaches of Normandy to the Mediterranean Sea. The first part of this second week Ruth had
caught the cold that was traveling through the ship and coughed a lot at
night. By mid-week she had given it to
me and I couldn’t stop coughing. So for
a solid week, we did not sleep well. That surely added to our tiredness as did
the late nights, and glass after glass of wine, the unending conversation and
laughter, and absorbing the country of France all day long!
Saturday night we thought about skipping dinner but had been
gifted a bottle of Sparkling Wine by the Hotel Manager. We carried it to the dining room and happened
to sit at a table where one couple had brought a bottle of red wine from the
place we visited the other day, to celebrate their anniversary. Just before dessert was served, Gabor, Peter,
and the waiters brought sparklers attached to another bottle of Sparkling
Wine. So six of us ended up the last
night of the cruise splitting three bottles of wine!
On the way back to the cabin we stopped at the desk to
settle our bill. In the cabin Ruth set
the alarm for 4:30 a.m. and I left a follow up wake up call for 5:15. Our bags had to be in the hall at 5:30 and
our bus to the Marseilles airport was scheduled for 6:00 a.m. It took me too long to finish the last minute
packing – somehow my limited wardrobe had expanded! Lights were finally out at 10:30. I always hate to see a trip end but I was
anxious to get home as my next trip is in a month!
This was indeed an exhausting trip, unlike river cruises of
my past. Not at all what I had told Ruth it would be. Will I sail again with Viking? Pretty much sealed the deal by buying a
couple Future Cruise Certificates and the bonus was that on this trip, for the
first time of my European travels, the Euro and Dollar were evenly
matched.
Friday, April 10, Arles
Another change of location and instead of docking in
Tarascon so that we would have a sort drive to Arles, we had to go all the way
to Avignon. Another boat from another
line was broken down in our space. In
France, Viking does not own their own docks.
Not sure why we didn’t park next to them and walk through to go ashore,
but perhaps it was not a passenger ship.
Since we had sailed all night we and were father than intended we left
early for a 40 minute drive to Arles.
This typical town is a rich one. Merchants, soldiers, sailors all had to
travel through Arles and the city fathers collected the taxes. Here again was a sweet old town with some
cobbled streets remaining. Sidewalk
cafes with colorful umbrellas and matching chairs were at every corner. Shop keepers were just opening their
shutters at 10:00 a.m. Our guide was an
enthusiastic lady who was a lifelong resident of this town and shared many
details of interest to one time visitors.
Here, again, Roman ruins are the high light. It is in very good condition although metal
stands have replaced much of the stone slab seating that you would expect. In many places original stonework can still
be seen. Some of the arches have never
needed any repair. On the sand floor of
the ring, a Gladiator was teaching young school children some of the tricks of
his trade. It was much more fun to watch
than it was to listen to the guide and view the photos she was trying to show
us.
The old Roman Amphitheater is now used for concerts and
special events. Twice a year, during an
Easter festival and again in September, they hold bullfights and all 20,000 are
filled. The tickets are quite expensive,
as much as 100Euros. In France they do
not kill the bull. The horns grow more
upright and strings and ribbons are wrapped around them. The Matador must unwrap the string, cut the
ribbon and pat the bull on the head between the horns. By this time the bull has usually had enough
of this nonsense and chases the Matador until he jumps the fence, often with
the bull right behind him!
We also visited the ornate Roman Theater. This smaller venue was used in the past for
concerts and plays. A flat side creates
a stage area and seating is semi-circular.
A high wall, still partially intact, kept people from viewing who have
not paid. Nearby the streets became even
narrower as these were the streets for the ‘middle class.’
We had not opted for the Steps of Van Gogh included tour but
you cannot visit Arles without crossing paths with the artist who was not
recognized for his greatness until after his death. It was here in Arles that he famously cut
off his ear in 1889. His great friend,
Gauguin, had seen his depression which had been greatly increased by his lost
love. Gauguin was with him when it
happened or soon after. He took the ear,
wrapped it up and gave it for safekeeping to his girlfriend. Although he told her not to open the package,
she, of course, did.
It was she who called for a doctor and had Van Gogh taken to
the hospital for the poor. He healed
quickly and the doctor said that is all well and good but your mental state
needs to be helped as well. This
hospital had a wing for the men and for the ladies. There was a lovely courtyard which inspired
Van Gogh to paint it several times. It
is planted today seasonally to mimic what can be seen in these canvasses. Van
Gogh heeded this advice but in his lifetime never became the successful artist
he dreamed to be. He sold only one
painting in his death!
While waiting for the others to join us, Ruth treated to a
cone of Gelato. I chose grapefruit but
then met someone who had gotten one in lavender. Wished I had thought of that as lavender is
my favorite Jujube flavor!
We returned the 40 minutes to the ship. Our tour ended up being shorter than
originally scheduled but I think I have a feel of the place. Once again we ate on deck. So much good conversation happens in the warm
sun over a glass of wine! Knowing that
tomorrow we had an optional excursion planned, I decided to spend part of the
afternoon on the pre-packing. It always
is hectic on the last day and I Ruth and I agree that it isn’t easy to have us
both trying to do this at the same time.
It seemed that things were not compacting as well as s they did on the way
here. Eventually I will perfect the
packing system. I did bring way more
than I needed since it was two separate cruises and in the evening I could
easily have worn everything more than once.
On long cruises I do, but because I had the space at the start of the
trip, I filled it up!
The Farewell Captain’s Toast was at 6:30 and Captain
Sandrine made a little speech in her native French which was roughly translated
by Mia, the Program Director. We toasted
with our new friends, and this was followed by the daily briefing. The Farewell Dinner was the same menu as the
one last week so Ruth and I decided to eat from the Bar Menu on the AquaVit
Terrace. Ed and Lynn decided to join us
as did Dennis and Carol. We wanted to do
this in order to enjoin the evening sail.
The Captain had gotten permission to do a two and a half
hour sail out and back since this is the loveliest part of the Rhone, which we
had missed seeing because of the docking change. We had to sit at two tables because four is a
tight fit at dinner. But the laughter
and comradery flowed easily between us.
We enjoyed the lighter menu of burgers and fries, loaded potatoes and
chicken Caesar salads. We watched the
soft dusk become a pink sunset. The city
lit up the encompassing walls and towers.
The famed Pont Avignon was bathed in dramatic lighting giving it a
romantic storybook feeling.
Gabor, the maĆ®tre d’ had not seen Ruth and I in the dining
room and came to find us to be sure everything was all right. He visited for a little and poured more
wine. He took the time to point out some
of what we were seeing. Gabor also made
sure the dining room’s strolling accordionist came to play for us. Soon there were complimentary specialty after
dinner Spritzers with mint leaves.
The pianist and Hotel Manager were checking the deck
speakers and I asked them to sing for us and they did. They laughed and broke into a chorus of
Champs Elysees complete with dance steps.
What a wonderful dinner this was.
Best idea of the whole trip! But
it came to end too soon when people began arriving for the Disco on the
Terrace! We moved inside where we could
hear the music but it was not blasting!
The boat next to us was also having a dance party and after about an
hour we decided to see the Blanket Show, as my Dad used to say. Our cabin was quiet, our beds were warm, our
comforters were fluffy, and we were soon asleep.
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