Winding Down...not really...

Hello again my friends.
On the last day of the trip I spent some time in the airport updating these writings with a description of the last day.  My SD card failed and so I lost the story.  But, lucky you, I will now try to recreate it as best I can.  I have been home a few days but the memories are so terrific that I think I can share it first hand with you...

Winding Down is maybe not the best title because it was anything but a quiet day.  I woke about 4:30 on Monday morning, December 3, showered, dressed, and went to the Hilton lobby where hot water was waiting for me to make a strong cup of tea.  In the quiet of the business center where WiFi was free (in your room you were charged for it!) I posted about yesterday, checked email and even read a couple of online newspapers.

When the cafe opened at 6:00 a.m., I got more tea and a plate of fresh watermelon and cantaloupe, returned to the business center and tried to kill time until some of my travel companions began to come down for breakfast.  The omelets were freshly made to order and the cookies had taken on Christmasy shapes.  At the Hilton there were pre-made sandwiches and most of us took one or two for later in the day.  I don't eat mayonnaise so instead I would take the bread meant for toast and some ham and cheese from the European part of the breakfast buffets and make one for lunch, even if lunch was included, 'cause you just never know when traveling in a foreign country what will turn up on your plate. And of course, cookies and an apple.

The plan for the Monday, after the Cloud Forest was cancelled because so many were exhausted after the long bus ride for the Markets Day, was for some of us ladies to visit the botanical garden.  I know this is always suggested partly because of my interest in plants but really, truly, unless it is spectacular, they are just another garden.  To see the orchids here could not possibly be as spectacular as in Singapore.  And as it turned out later, they were not.

I changed my plan and joined the young'uns, and Mitch and Marshall (they are from Chicago which has its own spectacular Conservatory and Gardens, and Arboretum) and opted for the Quito cable car.  Never thought I would enjoy that as they make me nervous but what a perfect outing to help fill the long day before the midnight flight.

The Teleferico is the newest attraction in Quito. It "gives to every visitor a spectacular view of the city and its surroundings including more than 14 peaks of the Andes that is called the Volcanoes Avenue. The Teleferico reaches 4,050 meters on the summit of Cruz Loma."  Specifically this is 13,287ft 4¹³⁄₁₆in. above sea level. Isabel, our guide, had advised that we spend no more than an hour at this elevation and to just walk around and take pictures.  But not us.  We were by this point of our trip, intrepid.

I led us over to a little chapel perched on the hill top.  Quite picturesque but Lucy, the one who had celebrated her anniversary earlier in the trip and had a bid birthday coming up, thought we should climb the hill behind the church.  The youngsters went to the left, around the chapel but not us.  Up we climbed.  At one point it was so steep that I sat in the grass and just breathed.  I let them go ahead.  When I saw that they did not stay at the top of the hill I plunged upward as well.  reaching the top, I could see them at the next height, resting.  I caught up with the group, of which I was not even the oldest, and we forged onward.  Just to the top of the next hill, and then the next, and the next.  We reached the spot where there was a horse corral but the sneaky, easy path taking kids, had now taken all the horses.  So as they rode we hiked, and climbed and kept going to view incredible landscapes and distant mountains, and volcanoes.  The lesson learned...no way did Julie Andrews climb to the top of the Alpine mountains (lower in elevation that we achieved) and actually burst into song.  At these soaring heights, breathing is a full time job!

We took a different route back to the cable car station.  That is how we found out that the path the kids (in their 40's) took circled the hilltops and was pretty flat and partially paved.  We used the bathrooms where unfortunately those who had suffered from altitude sickness had left unpleasant reminders.  When at high altitudes you must drink gallons of water to prevent this.  We all joined up in the restaurant and four of us decided to go back to the hotel, Mitch, Marshall, Mike, and me.  Mike's wife wasn't feeling well and had not come along so he wanted to check on her.  The others headed to the garden for the afternoon.

When Ursula was still not doing great Mike declined further adventure for the day.  We three went a few blocks down the street to a local tourist market to use our newly gained bargaining skills once more. I usually am not good at this but in Ecuador it was fun.  I never paid more than half what was being asked.  Mitch had paid $10 for a tee shirt, Marshall paid $8 and at the next stop I managed to get it down to $5!  So we each bought several.  It was quite a pleasant afternoon.  We laughed a lot.

On the way back to the hotel we met Mike and Ursula.  She had come out for some fresh air and showed us her manicure and pedicure which Isabel had taken her to get after breakfast.  Total cost for hand painted designs and two hours of attention was $10.  That is 50 cents a nail ladies! Quite pretty, too.  She went to the hotel and Mike set out for the market.  Everyone had returned from the garden and they were all trying to get repacked and organized for the flight home.  I had done that the night before so the guys and I went across to the park where there was a concert going on.

The first week of December in Quito is one long celebration and cacophonous party.  The city celebrates its founding with parades, food, art, and noise! The bullfights are permitted once a year on the actual foundation date of December 6, so we missed those.  But this Monday afternoon was no exception to the party atmosphere.  There was a really large male singer decked out in a black shirt with long white fringe and a black cowboy hat, and tight jeans.  He was playing bass guitar and singing a country western song in Spanish.  But during the solo riffs he came to the front of the stage and mimicked the best of the rock and roll gyrations...or at least he tried. 

Back at the hotel we went our separate ways to gather our things to check out at 5:30 p.m.  I had offered for everyone to use my luggage scale but the battery was dead and I had not been able to replace the flat style locally.  So, I arranged for the hotel bell man to bring the scale to each room.  It was a bathroom scale but it did the trick as he weighed everyone's bags.  I won't make the dead battery mistake again.

Sitting in the lobby was boring and we had an hour and a half to kill.  Lucy, our morning hike leader, and I went back to the park.  We did not get far.  I was fascinated by a street artist who was creating a landscape using spray paint, bits of newspaper and cardboard for brushes, and setting the paint seal with fire!  Yes, he set the paintings on fire.

I loved it and began taping him.  At the end I immediately spoke up and bought it.  I could not believe that he said $8 and got it out as fast as possible, I did not want someone to offer more.  I have the painting framed now and have the video to show the work.  Amazing.  Lucy bought two already completed works.  She took Jane back over to see this young man in action and he was finishing for the day.  Everything was five dollars, but I LOVE having the video of him creating my view of the volcano of Ecuador.
 At last 7:00 tricked over on our watches and we gathered in front of the hotel Christmas tree to have a group photo taken.  It was really the first time everyone was together except on a travel day.

(Back Row: Mark, Madeline, Craig, Mitch, Marshall ... Middle Row: Mike, Ursula, Me, Jane, Lucy, Maggie, Sharon, Ming ... Front Row: Isabel, Theresa, Carolyn, Michaela, Kathy, Gary)
Carolyn's friend, Carol, had gone home before the Galapagos because of illness.  Actually, I was the only one on the whole trip who did not have either a bout of diarrhea or altitude sickness.

From the hotel we went to a traditional Ecuadorian restaurant.  It was great fun.  We could hear the mariachi band greeting us as we walked from the bus.  At the door of Rincon La Ronda Restaurant waiters welcomed us with warm spiced wine.  Seated in the balcony of the opulent Spanish building we started with Empanadas while the second band played at our table side.  I ordered the potato, cheese, avocado soup which is a specialty of the country.  It has been delicious everywhere I have had it and here was no exception. The almond Chilean Sea Bass was crispy and excellent.  Dessert was a sampling of all the tasty treats the menu had to offer.  The bands switched again and band three and four played and I couldn't resist playing along.

At 9:00 the time came to again board the bus and leave this vacation to become just a memory.  At the airport things went smoothly even though Isabel could not walk us all the way to the chick in point.  Craig brought up the rear and gave her the thumbs up once we were all checked in and no problems were incurred. She was off for a well earned two week rest before leading a canoe trip down the Amazon and we were off to return to reality.

LAN has an extremely slow check in process and security was hand performed and done three separate times. After the final search through the carry on bags we were in a waiting room with no bathroom and no water fountain.  So there was nothing else to do for two hours except watch others go through the process.  I heard Madeline defend the idea that her liquids were not in a quart size ziplock bag because "in the US we never do that."  Not sure how she has managed all these trips without doing that.  But the best was the lady who literally yelled at the young inspector to "Take it.  Take it all.  It isn't in a bag because I don't want to do that."  I couldn't hear exactly what the young lady said as she showed her a plastic bag but could not miss the angry passenger from the Vantage Tour group as she responded.  "I'm from New York.  I lived through it.  How dare you tell me what to do!"  She huffed off and the items did indeed go into the large round container at the security person's side.  I think she was lucky she wasn't arrested. I guess the late shift in Ecuador is more patient than our own TSA.

Returning home from Quito was a much shorter trip than the flight to Lima.  The plane was pretty empty and I leaned up against my window seat with no one anywhere near me.  My painting safe in the staff closet, and ate my chicken dinner.  In Miami we arrived early which gave me an extra long layover.  My 9:00 a.m. flight was also empty, only 30 passengers to Atlanta.  Too bad they still wanted to charge the $50 early flight fee because I left my companions behind for a later flight.

Christine met the plane and by 2:00 in the afternoon I was folding the first load of wash.  Since Peru and Ecuador are in the same time zone it was an easy return to normalcy. 

I bought this shirt at the National Park of the Galapagos.  Even paid full price.  It says it all!

December 2, ...Excursion to the countryside

Today was a great day.  At 8:00 am we set out on the big bus for a two hour drive into the countryside.  Quito was quiet this morning after the wild celebrations of last night which included a beautiful fireworks display right across the street from the hotel.  Fun to watch from the comfort of my fluffy bed.

I woke early and mentally tried to review all the many things we have done and seen.  Nearly impossible to believe.  Ancient Incan ruins in Machu Picchu, villages with livestock markets, handicrafts, changing of the guards at a palace, one foot in either hemisphere, endemic creatures in the Galapagos and so much more.  Once I started thinking my brain wouldn't shut off.  So I was up early and had breakfast and got ready for our trip to the Otavalo Indigenous Craft Market.

The ride was great with several stops. Can you believe there are snow-capped mountains sitting right on the equator?  Volcanoes in the valley of the volcanoes are snow capped yet straddle earth's belt.  They are topped with snow year round.  You can't ski because they are too high.   Mountain climbers can only climb then from midnight until about 5:00 am because in this country with no seasons the sun is too hot at the mountain tops that are 19,000 feet above sea level which is several thousand feet higher than Mont Blanc which is Europe's highest Alp.

We went up and over mountains, through valleys, over more Andes heights, and finally into the valley where Otavalo sits.  I am not a shopper.  Especially not for souvenirs but I reallly had a good time here.  I can't say here what I bought because they are gifts.  The particular skill of this town is with fabrics and weaving.  The next little town was filled with leather goods.  Beautiful things at bargain basement prices.

We spent several hours in the warm sun browsing the crafts and chatting with the cheerful sellers. The market was lively and but not noisy and no live animals, just handicrafts.  Younger children played games while hiding under tables to keep cool in the shade.  Infants suckled at their mother's breast while she asked me if it was possible I might like to buy what she was selling.  Each stall is family run and the children learn early to help out.  As I was purchasing items from one little girl I could see that her eyes kept looking over to dad to make sure she was not reducing the price too much.  Whenit came to making change, she looked to her mom to be certain that I was not asking too much cash back.

The ride back was quiet as  most of my fellow travelers dozed off.  Our trip tomorrow to the cloud forest is cancelled because most of those who wanted to go and were very excited about it have decided that they are just tired and not ready for even one more thing.  So I have arranged for a taxi for four of us to go to the Jardin Botanica to see the orchids.  I am sure it will be a nice ending to the trip.

We can be in our rooms until 5:30 pm and then at 7:00 the bus picks us up to go to a Farewell Dinner in an Ecuadorian restaurant and then on to the airpport for the not so long flight home.  It has been a wonderful opportunity to see parts of the world that I never in my mind's eye ever dreamt of seeing.  I hope some day you too will see these wonders of the universe.

December 1...Home (to Quito) from the Galapagos

Hello friends.  I am back in Quito for a few days after a fantastic tour of the beautiful Pacific Islands of the Galapagos National Park.  I made lots of notes but right now can't remember how I pasted into this program before so it may have to wait a few days.  You will be very excited to read it by the time I get to it.  By then I will be able to show you some of the many pictures I have of Blue Footed Boobies, Sea Lions,  Albatross, Lava Gulls, Marine and Land Iguanas, and of course, the Giant Tortoise.

In the meantime, I can share that we had our bags out by 6:15 am with breakfast at quarter to seven and left for our final transfer by Zodiac to the dock at Baltra for the short ride to the Guayaquil Airport.  Our flight was not until 11:30 but we had to be off the boat and had no better place to wait than the tiny open air airport.  It has two gates: one for going to the plane by way of the front door and one for the back door!

LAN is a nice airline and served snacks even on the second part of the flight which was only a half hour after we picked up the new passengers in Guayaquil. The total flight time was two hours but after leaving the boat at 8:30 it was nearly 5:00 pm by the time we were in the Quito Hilton.

I repacked for the final flights to come home early Tuesday morning and then had dinner with Carolyn and Madeline in the hotel restaurant. Most of the group went to various fancy restaurants.  We are sticking close by.  This is the week of celebration of the founding of the city which lasts from the 1st to the 6th.  Wow, what a party is going on right outside our hotel and in the park across the street. Decorated pickup trucks and Volkswagen type buses are cruising the street with gangs of riders and bands standing on the roofs playing loudly.  It reminiscent of Mardi Gras!  And it lasts for six days!

We have two full days before we come home so I am going to take a bath, read my book, and go to sleep.  More later.

Monday, November 26 ,,, still in Quito

We started the morning excursion at nine after a leisurly breakfast enjoying delicious food from the expansive buffet which featured breakfast preferences from all lover the world.  There was fish, rice, and vegetables for the Chinese guests,  hard rolls, meats, cheeses, beans and tomatoes for the Europeans, and all American waffles, eggs, bacon, sausage and lots of fruit.  The American style breakfast really does seem to be favored by everyone from wherever they come.

Our first stops were at scenic overlooks and although the extensive history that Isabella shared was interesting the views were far from great due to the deep early fog or haze trapped in this valley of the Andes.  We did stop at the Basillica and were interested to see that the neo-classical facade features the typical gargoyles in not so typical form.  One end of the building has gargoyles which represent the Galapagos with tortoises, lizards, boobies and fish while the other end represents the Amazon showing, different fish, alligators, iguanas etc. 

From there we made our way to the central governement square and found places in the crowd among the many locals who came to view the changing of the guard and see the President of Ecuador and the officials who attend the ceremony every  Monday.  And no, the guards do not serve from Monday to Monday but rather only two hour shifts.  But the ornate pagentry only  takes place on Mondays and the population sees their officials and enjoy the emotion of patriotic anthems and parading horse guards, rows of beautifully dressed soldiers, and the handing over of the ceremonial sword.

After the ceremony protestors, who did not disrupt the occaision called out to the president both in favor or or opposed to national oil, education, or health issues.  Very obvious protests but very polite.

We met together again and went to visit an old church nearby the colonial center which was competative with the cathedrals fo Europe in its ornateness and the massive amounts of gold.  It is under restoration.  Gold, silver , and platinum is what the Spaniards sought in South America and it is what they found and stole from the Incas.  Muxh of it went into churches and palaces.

High above the city wwe saw the statue of the Virgin Mary that dominated the night sky last evening.  Unlike most Madonnas this one has wings.  The sculptor felt she needed them to soar high above the city and close to God.

We returned to the hotel for a lunch break and after just an hour 12 of us headed outside the city to the Middle of the World monument and the IntiNan Museum.  It was not the cuggested tour but enough of us wanted

Sunday, November 25 - Lima to Quito

Today was one of the many travel days involved in this trip.  We left the hotel in Lima for the airport at 9:00 am sharp.  Our flight wasn't until one but because it was international you have to be so early.  Check in with LAN was much easier this time and we were at the gate by 10:30.  Luckily I don't mind reading and just watching people go by.  People are funny things if they think no one is paying attention.

The flight was unmemorable, mostly soft, curly, white and grayish clouds with a texture that reminded me more of the Alpaca wool we saw than of the cotton candy clouds we have at home.  Breaching the last mountain top I could see Quito laid out below like a long, narrow, sparkling, neck scarf for the Andes that surround it.

Our guide Isabella met us and promptly emphasized the importance of drinking water by handing us a tall, cool one.  Quitio is at about 9,000 feet above sea level and about the same altitude as the Sacred Valley in Peru where we spent our first days.  The city is clean and quite modern.  The American dollar is not only accepted here but is there currency.  They use our bills but the coins are labeled on the back sides with the values.  Otherwise when they converted to the dollar it was too confusing for the people because it makes no sense that the nickle and the penny which are worth less are bigger than the dime.  So the coin faces are the same as ours and the sizes and the colors are the same but the backs are labeled.  The Sacajewea dollar which was not popular in the states all got shipped here and is in common use.

The Hilton Colon Quito is a beautiful business hotel in the heart of the city, across from a broad park where an afternoon art festival was just finishing, and near the colonial center.  We were greeted with fresh juice and soft fluffly, beds.  I went across the street to the Farmacia to get a 6 litre bottle of water for $1.25 before the place closed at 5:00.  Each hotel gives each guest a complimentary bottle of water but charges after that.  At the Hiltonthe individual bottle is $3 so this was a great deal and we refilled bottles we had saved from just yesterday.  The water is safe to drink in these countries but just like street food it can bring on Montezuma's Revenge if you are not used to it.  SO bottled water is the best bet.

Madeline did not want to go across to the park but took a shower and put on her night gown.  So I actually unpacked since we have to pack differently for the Galapagos.  When she wanted to go for dinner she wanted to eat in the hotel.  On our way to the very nice and not very expesive restaurant we ran into Ming and Sharon in the.  They were waiting to go to dinner with Craig and Lucy but had about given up so invited us to go along.  Only four can go in a cab.  Madeline did not want to go out so I was going to go with them.

But Ming who takes even more pictures than me had lost his battery charger on the plane.  So instead we went to the nearby mall to try to replace it.  All of us are counting on seeing Ming's pictures when we get home.  Madeline didn't want to go along because she said it would be just like any mall in America.  And it was.  And it was great.  A beautiful several stories tall decorated Christmas tree met us as we got out of the taxi.  Inside bright, tasteful, sparkling deorations hung above the open center of the shopping area.  Families with small children were having McDonald's or Chinese food, or Empanadas in the food court.  It was great!

There were three places in the mall that had chargers.  The first was Radio Shack but at $66 dollars Ming hesitated.  We tried the other two places which were spaced just far enough apart that we saw the whole place.  They didi not have what he neeed.  Back at Radio Shack I asked about a discount while the young man opened the package. While the man fit together the puzzle of a charger which accomodates several types of batteries and has two different plug systems I suggested a Black Friday sale price.  They do not have Black Friday here.  No senior discount or specials he could offer until I asked if there was a discount for cash.  He seemed surprised that we would pay cash and reduced the price to $54 and here there is no tax.  Ming was quite happy about the discount and was excited about the options the charger offered.  Turned out to be better than the one he had lost since it was so flexible and was a one hour charger as well.  Mission accomplished.

Leaving the mall after a delicious Chinese dinner they were going to take an unmarked taxi but I talked them  out of that since when I fist asked the driver said he was not a taxi and then changed his mind.  Besides, I wanted to walk back to the still lighted tree to take pictures but just then a real taxi came so we hopped in and were returned to the hotel safely for the exhorbitant cost of $3!

The pool was already closed so I settled in the lobby with my tablet for awhile.  WiFi is free in the lobby but costs in your room.  Weird.  Madeline was watching TV in bed.  Eventually I succumbed to the long travel day, took a hot bath, and went to bed enjoying the view of the city lights winding up the mountain like a string of yellow crystals lovely black velvet gown. sparkling on a

Saturday, November 25 Lima, Peru

Hi there.  I have about 15  minutes free to tell you that today was a nice morning in Cuzco and then a 9>30 flight to Lima.  We were met at the airport by Kika who gave us an extensive guided tour of the city of Lima.  First off, the airport and cruise port are way, way outside the business district.  So a good part of the drive was through industry and the attendant slums.  Girls and boys trolling the stop light lines to sell soft drinks, newspapers and even chairs.  Eight lanes of traffic but they had it all figured out.

When we finally arrived in the old part of town in the city center we took a very pleasant walking tour.  At the Franciscan monastery we visited the monastery itself and the church.  Then we went down to the catacombs.  Not like those in Rome at St. Peter's at all.  These were more like mass graves that were discovered after the 1970 something earthquake.  The open pits simply now sort arm bones, from leg bones, from hip bones, from skulls.  Of course if they were in Slovakia they would be in chandeliers. *Google Sedlec Ossuary to see what I mean.

When we returned to the square there was a parade of mountain dancers performing a ritual dance in front of the cathedral.  their woolen leggings and capes were over silken long dresses.  Their masks were carved wood. They carried long hemp whips which made quite a loud crack as they cleared the crowd to pass along the street.  A tiny young boy was doing his best to keep step with the ritual dance steps.

We stopped for a coffee break and while everyone else sought refuse in one of the many open air cafes or the elegant Dunkin Donuts, Theresa and I went to the museum of St. Martin De Pores and St. Rose of Lima.  We did not have time to tour but the very nice young man selling the tickets told us the stories of the saints and let us take pictures of the statues on display in the lobby.  There were several beautiful churches nearby.  Also a street of Moorish balconies.

We stopped in beautiful ocean side Miraflores to stroll in the park that is modeled after Parque Quell in Barcelona which was a masterpiece of Gaudi.  Here it is lover's park and has a giant statue of a kiss.  Many brides and grooms were having photos at the statue which is supposed to symbolize everlasting love.  Off shore surfers were hoping to catch the perfect wave and we were very reluctant to leave the relaxed, warm sunshine to continue on our bus tour.

We are  now checked in aat the Novotel Hotel Lima and I am on my way to join Margaret for our complimentary welcome drink of a Pisco Sour.  I will have to find the recipe,,,I think it would be a good summer drink.

Friday, November 24 ---Cuzco

Today we had a relaxing start which was excellent after the train torture of yesterday.  Our meeting time was for 10 am.  I happened to wake up early and had breakfast at 5:30 and enjoyed the hotel lobby by myself until almost six when another couple from our group came to sit with me.  When the dining tables were filling up the waiter opened the bar and gave me a table and chair there so I could continue online and it was great.  Very quiet so I was able to catch up a little here.

Madeline stayed at the hotel for a 'me day' and I joined the others for a walking tour.  Our hotel is nicely situated just a couple of blocks from the historic center of the city.  We saw the Inca ruins that were long covered up by a Dominican monastery which partially collapsed in the 1950 earthquake.  The ancient treasure was discovered then and the Dominicans were then required to open their doors to the public to share this lost heritage.

The carved stones were fit together perfectly without mortar and withstood the damage of even the earthquake except for the Temple of the Sun.  It has one long crack which is blamed on the weight of the church built above it.  The Incas used a system of fitting the stones tightly together with some being grooved out so others could be cut oppositely with extensions to fit in the grooves. The lintels were rounded to give more support.  The Temple of the Sun was open to the sky so that built in projections would cast shadows foretelling the dry or rainy season. It has windows in which at the solstices the sun would perfectly project onto the opposite wall.  On one June 21 it rained and stormed and no shadows were cast so sacrifices of llamas and other animals and gifts of fruit and baskets of bread were brought to the altar set between the windows to appease the angry God of the Sun.  The rains stopped and even to this day there is a festival of the Sun with a big feast.  The  Inca people celebrate with dancing and parades to thank the Sun God for blessing them

We visited the cathedral which was ornately decorated with the gold and silver the Spanish stole from the Incas at the time of the conquest. The altars are solid silver and the paintings depict biblical figures in Inca style.  The Madonnas have long, soft, black hair which is the pride of the Inca woman and the men are in colorful Peruvian garb.

One of the paintings is of The Last Supper.  This is always a popular depiction in Christian and especially Catholic churches.  The Cuzco Last Supper, by Marcos Zapata (1753)  is a unique blending of European religion and native culture.  On the plate in front of Jesus as he blesses the bread is the traditional Peruvian delicacy of roast guinea pig!  Known as 'cuy' the guinea pig is a traditional Inca sacrificial animal.

Some of our group followed up the tour with lunch at a restaurant where cuy is the featured dish.  They said it tasted a lot like duck.  It is served roasted whoIe and the platter is decorated with vegetables and fruits.  I, however, enjoyed lunch with Madeline, Carolyn, and Carol in the hotel dining area of the lobby.

After lunch we joined those who went to the Alpaca factory.  No they don't make alpacas here but do create beautiful clothing with the very soft wool.  We learned how they shear it, and we also learned how to tell the differences between the various types: baby alpaca, second alpaca, and  maybe alpaca.  Maybe is, of course, the cheapest as it is synthetic.  Many of the group bought sweaters or scarves for themselves or to take home as gifts.

Back at the hotel it was time to repack for the journey to Lima before heading out for an evening stroll through the beautiful lighted central square which was full of people enjoying the spring evening.  There was a wedding at the cathedral and the cars out front were decorated.  High above the city is a lighted statue of Jesus Risen. It would have been fun to sit and watch awhile but we were walking to a farewell dinner with local entertainment.

The buffet was served after our toast with Pisco Sours.  We had dinner with Mike and Ursula and compared notes on our day.  Back at the hotel we all visited awhile.  Craig came to our room for help with moving his books from his broken Kindle to his iPad by way of my tablet.  I listened to Wait, Wait Don't Tell Me while I soaked in the deep tub and relaxed.

Highlight of the day for me was while walking to dinner a little boy tried to have me buy  a llama key chain.  This child selling/begging is continuous and no is my usual answer.  But this child of about 9 walked along and asked where I was from.  I said America and he began a recitation...America, USA, Capital is Washington D.C., President is Barack Obama, before him was George Bush the son, before him....and went all the way back to Nixon.  First President was George Washington, Ben Franklin discovered electricity.  He went on and on and so I stopped and told him how smart and cute he was and that he should keep studying in school.  I then gave him a dollar and told him that I did not want the key chain but that he deserved a reward.

It is Saturday morning at 7:00 am and I am going to have breakfast and start on the next part of my adventure.

Thanksgiving Day---November 22

After a nice buffet dinner last night at a nearby restaurant I took a very hot shower at our lovely Inti Inn and read myself to sleep early while a band played Peruvian flutes beneath my window.  The alarm was set for 5:30 am. Breakfast was served in a tiny basement cafe of the Inn and featured the usual combination of European breakfast foods like ham, cheese, hard rolls and yogurt.  There was also the Peruvian staple of quinoa and good old American favorites of made to order omelets, toast, and jam.  And to drink coffee essence to which you add a lot of hot water and hot milk or more Coca tea.  I wonder if I can get through the airport with that?  It is a constant offering at all times of the day and night.

We set out for the ruins of the Historic Sanctuary of Machu Pichu at 7:00 am with the fog shrouding the mountains and the  mist dampening our faces. We found that kidney killing half hour ride up the dozens of switchbacks on the dirt road got us to the Parque Nacional early enough that the lines were not too long and late enough to miss long lines of people who had gone to see the sunrise.  I was glad we did not do that considering that the fog was thick.

Mitchell, whose roommate Marshall had stayed back at the hotel, and I set out on our own to explore the lower ruins.  We tried to avoid long, steep, uneven staircases as our legs still ached from the strenuous exercise of the day before.  We found more of the same homes and meeting halls and explored different views of the mountains and the valley far below.  We threaded the needle, found 'furniture' of granite tables and chairs, niches for family altars and alpaca grazing on the ancient Incan terraces.

One of my fellow travelers mentioned an old film that I was not familiar with but might be fun to watch when I get home.  It is called The Secret of the Incas with Charlton Heston.  The steamy picture on poster indicates it might not be accurate but Heston spent much time here researching the project and scenes were shot on location.

I will keep trying to find ways to add photos and links for you like in the past but the system does not want to allow it right now.

Mitch and I collected up my travel friend, Madeline, where she sat at the base of the ruins with her Kindle and returned to the small base town of Aqua Caliente where he returned to the inn to join his friend Marshall for some shopping for the grandkids and Madeline and I wandered the riverside street.  She bought a tee shirt and a gift cookbook for her friend.  We joined some of the others on out tour for a snack break and then I found a beautiful courtyard garden with views of the mountains and the river. The afternoon was spent relaxing and strolling and meeting friends here and there to see what they were doing and finding.

At 2:50 were were at the train station to collect our bags that the hotel porter had brought there for us and to meet our group.  Only six of us showed up because the others had been in the restaurant when Luis found out the trains were running and hour late.  He came and said we could go back to town but we went to the waiting room and enjoyed some people watching.  Our train was beautiful and very fancy with comfortable seating and we faced across a table with sisters Theresa, from Peachtree City, and Margaret from D.C.
l
The train jolted and jerked its way along the riverside taking five hours to make the three and a half hour trip to Poroy, a suburb of Cuzco.  Perurail attendants set our tables with colorful cloths and offered beer and wine for sale.  They then came with a snack of nuts, cheese, raisins and flan. After leaving some passengers at Ollantaytambo we were entertained by a Bolaroja, a flamboyantly dressed and masked clown.  Then came the fashion show of Alpaca and Vicuna ponchos, sweaters for men, scarves, jackets and coats.The lady attendant strutted her stuff up and down the aisle stopping to demonstrate different ways to wear the garment while the wild music played and the clown clapped and danced.  Our friend Carol bought a beautiful full length baby Alpaca coat that reversed from grey to red.  I am glad she did because I was so tempted to buy it myself for one of my girls.

When the long delayed train finally arrived we collected our bags and boarded the bus to the Novotel in Cuzco, but not without incident.  I tripped at the edge of the busy road we had to cross but Carolyn fell and narrowly missed being run over by one of the many buses in the tight chaos of passengers, taxis, and buses thrown off schedule by the very late arrival of the train from Machu Picchu.

A 15 minute ride through what looked to be darkened slums brought us to the edge of the city with it's yellow street lamps below. We were dropped a couple of blocks from the hotel as the old city streets are too narrow for a coach and walked uphill to a beautiful waiting hotel room, a hot bath and some sleep.

Please forgive my inconsistency.  I want to tell you about today, not yesterday.  Today is Wednesday, November 21.  Tomorrow is Thanksgiving Day.  I know what I am Thankful for...my life.  I am a lucky, lucky girl! Ignore the leeway I take there!

I have spent the day today in the small town of Ollantaytambo tucked high in the Andes mountains.  My first stop was at the local weekly fresh market.  Stepping gingerly over goat, sheep, donkey and miscellaneous poop, we watched ducklings being flung into cages while mothers and their small children picked out the live chicken that would be dinner.  Wiggling bags at the feet of the vendor contained either chickens or the Peruvian delicacy of guinea pig!  All would soon be on someone's dinner plate!

Mark, a young man on our tout commented to his wife Michella that these were truly organic vegetables as the many varieties of dried potato were mounded in sacks, and onions, greens and corn were in monumental stacks.  We saw that at the market were many mestizo women.  They are distinguished by the white top hats they wear everywhere every day.  The women are wealthy and respected because they are half Inca and half Spanish.  This was an amazing experience and so much better than the Pisac Market we spent time in yesterday.  It is a tourist focused place of stalls of woven goods and silver jewelry...this was Andean life.

Leaving the market we went to the Temple of the Sun.  Yes...I climbed all the way to the top.  I  made it and am so glad I did.  The Inca people were amazing builders and their economy was agricultural.  They relied on the timing of the seasons and so the Temple of the Sun and other marvels cleverly foretold the coming of the warm season and of the rainy season.  Climbing past the terraces and up 300 steps to the top I was able to see haw the stones and the windows were placed to catch the rays at the solstices perfectly.

Next we headed to the station in town for the Perurail train to Machu Picchu.  An hour and a half later we had passed river rapids, the new hydroelectric plant, an ancient Inca bridge and beautiful fields of corn and potatoes.  We saw hikers at the beginning of their four day trek on the Inca Trail up to Machu Picchu and arrived at the bustling little town.  Walking uphill to the Inti Inn to claim our room keys and leave our bags was a whirling mist of color and sound. 

After only a half hour to wash up we headed back downhill to the bus to the site.  30 bumpy minutes later we had reached our goal and entered the sacred grounds of one of the wonders of the world.  I am so glad that Karen convinced me to buy a walking stick.  With its aid I kept up with our group and climbed through this Incan city dating back to 1400 AD.  I went all the way up to the Guard House.  Our guide was great at explaining each of the amazing buildings and regaled us with stories of this ancient civilization.

We saw the kings burial tomb much like the idea of the pyramids where the wealthy were mummified and buried with their treasures for use in the next life. The Round Tower with had perfect alignment for the solstices, the Temple of Three Windows, and the  Astronomers House.  I am not able to load photos from this computer so much more will be added to this later.  I actually stood in the places the famed National Geographic photographers took their iconic pictures. 

I can't believe I have seen this wonder...and all the other wonders I have experienced this year and so I am Thankful.  Thankful for health, for a brain that is still interested in life and what is amazing in it, for children who encourage me to see the world and not wait on the sidelines.  I am thankful for a husband who worked hard for many years and cared for us and helped to make all this possible.  I know I am a lucky woman and I appreciate it.

I cannot believe that this year alone I have scuba dived for the first time, touched a pyramid, walked in the red sands of Petra, seen the world from the Kahlifa tower, been awestruck by the magnificence of the Taj Mahal, and waked in the footprints of the ancient Inca.

I wish you all and each a very happy holiday.  I will be celebrating with a return to Machu Picchu in the morning and then and trainride back to the Sacred Vallley and then a bus ride back to reality in the city of Cuzco.  God Bless you all.

Moving Right Along

As I finally approached my gate I was glad that I had planned a long layover because I would have been panicky with the long delay experienced at the counter. I did not see Madeline at all land as it turned out when she did arrive that her flight had indeed been delayed on both ends. Luckily her wait at the counter was about half of mine. I quickly spotted two ladies who just looked like they would be in my group and as I got closer I saw the bright orange identifying tags on their luggage so we chatted and Mitch and Marshall joined Carol and Carolyn and I and then Madeline arrived shortly before our 11:59 pm take off. That was considered Tour DAY ONE!

 The flight was one of the best I have been on. The seat had plenty of space between me and the seat in front, their was no one next to me and I got really comfortable after my long day and snuggled into the very warm, large, and propped my pillow against the window to try to sleep...something I am not good at at home much less on a plane! I was glad I wasn't sleeping because they served one of the most delicious flight dinners I have ever had. I did finally try to sleep and didn't but did doze and didn't even try to watch a movie. We arrived in Lima promptly at 5:39 am and quickly moved through the almost empty luggage collection and customs process. He took us upstairs where there were familiar names and explained the boarding process for the one hour flight to Cuzco.

  While we waited we got to know the other 33 in our group. We met more of our group and everyone seems very interesting and quite diversified. Mike and Ursula are a young couple from Toronto. He is originally from New York but love changes everything. He is going to be getting his Canadian papers and will have dual citizenship. He says it is easier to travel ont he Canadian passport. Craig and Lucy are also from Toronto and their daughter is taking both the American and the Canadian Boards to be an Optometrist.

 We were met in Cuzco by Luis who is our guide while here. Cuzco is over 11,000 feet above sea level so they promptly loaded our luggage into a bus and we boarded for the two hour drive to Yucay. This area in The Sacred Valley is only 8,000 ft so we will have better luck aclimetizing. Along the way we stopped at the highest point of just over 12,000 feet to view the green valley below. This valley sacred to the Incas was not where they actually lived. They perched on the mountain sides,building terraced fields which are still in use today. They came into the valley below to meet, create their business centers, and join forces against the Spanish. And to farm the flat lands.  I did not know that in this sacred valley was the birthplace of one of the most sacred crops to the Irish...the potato.  Today there are still grown here over 800 varieties of spud brought to Europe first by the Spanish Conquistadors.

When we finally arrived at Posada Sonesta we found a beautiful former monastery which is now a comfortable and very expensive, gracious hacienda.  The spacious courtyards and lovely central garden is surrounded by big rooms with very fancy bathrooms and reclaimed wood floors if the originals were gone.  Outside our window are Alpacas grazing, and snow capped Andes!

We were welcomed with hot Coca tea and gigantic old fashioned room keys.  And boy did that room look good to me.  I was really going to enjoy my over-pillowed queen sized bed but first a welcome cocktail. I apologize for my spelling of local items because of the language barrier and my only Spanish is horticulture related.  I think the frothy, limey drink was a Pissac Sour.  everyone introduced themselves and we headed off to a delightful dinner around the stone fireplace of the hotel restaurant called the INKAFE!

The very fancy service really set off the nicely plated dishes.  I had an appetizer of brochettes of beef, chicken and alpaca.  Yes, alpaca which was quite good, light in color like pork, taste a little like beef and a little chewy.  I followed this with delicious chicken and a fruit salad.  I avoid salads of greens when you can only drink the bottled water.

I thought for sure I would crash as it had been over about 37 hours since I had first gotten out of bed Sunday morning.  I guess I was over tired because sleep did not come.  So I started writing this blog and am struggling to learn the Tablet differences.  Last night, for example I had no trouble adding pictures but have wasted a valuable hour tonight trying to show you the McDonald's and Papa John's and Dunkin Donuts at the Cuzco airport and some photos of this lovely hotel nestled in the majestic mountains.  I will try to get better but took so much time that I thave not told you about today.

It will have to wait.  I need to shower and get some sleep  tomorrow we set out ...down hill...to Machu Picchu itself.

Taking Flight...November18

The flights were fine, all of them, but the chaos at the airport in Miami was not amazing but just weird. After a quick claim stop at the baggage carousel I thought I had plenty of time to wander around the airport, maybe have dinner, and maybe even meet up with others from our tour group. I am traveling with SmarTours and it is the first time I have done this kind of a trip. Most things are included but some meals will be on our own. It was a couple of hours before I met my fellow travelers.

After collecting my bag I went to check in for my next flight and recheck my bag after customs. I found the place to check in for LAN flight 2507 to Lima, Peru and got in line. I have never been in a line like that if there wasn't a roller coaster at the end of it. No joke. The queue line wound around to the counter where it took fifteen minutes or more to process one passenger. I finally made it to the third loop of the line when an employee came through and took everyone out of the line if we were going to Lima. They wanted to ticket only the Chile flight. After about one hour and fifteen minutes of being in line to get only about half way we started over in a new line that was not allowed to enter the stanchions until 8:00! If they had told us that before I would have been happier. Once we did enter the line they held us up again because they were still working on the Chile flight.

 A great part of the problem was the enormous amount of luggage. People literally had as many as ten bags to check in...at $116 per extra case. Not for a family but per person in each family. And then of course two carry ons each. Incredible piles of stuff. A lot of the bags were green saran wrapped...$15 each...and marked as security proved baggage. I asked the young man who, after a total of two and a half hours of my waiting in line, finally checked me in about all the bags. I thought maybe people worked here and were going home for the winter. No, they come to the states to shop! The flights are relatively cheap and the prices are so significantly better that they shop for everything. So the HP boxes weren't just used to make packing easy, they were new computers! Televisions, baby equipment, and clothes and shoes galore. They fly in with the two carry on bags and buy enough suitcases as they buy the other things with which to fill them!

The security wrap was especially popular for those continuing on to Buenos Aries. Those bags would have no reason to be searched in Santiago and therefore less likely to have property stolen in the airport in either Chile or Argentina! Of course some of our neighbors to the south had been to Disney World and were lugging along giant Mickeys and Minnies as well. So, dear friends, the U.S. economy is booming in South Florida and the balance of trade is in our favor!

Packed for Andes and Islands

It took some doing today to figure out the packing mystery all in one short afternoon. My out of town company left early this morning...that means 6 am...so at 5 am I was making coffee! It would have been good to sleep late today and try to merge my lifestyle to the late nights and early mornings that are to come.  I leave Miami just before midnight tomorrow so since I am not an airplane sleeper some pre -adjustment would have been smart.

My day continued with me babying my aching back but thankfully it is better, not great but better.  But I couldn't get much done and I sure couldn't relax with the electrician here.  It took practically all day to change over one wall switch!  I did go out and pick up one library book while he was here...I was afraid the library would close and it would have before he was through.

 So here is the test of my tablet.  It is a little tricky to keep the cursor in the right place because my resting thumb brushes the very sensitive touchpad.  But it is way easier than using an Android touch screen for word entry.  I will now try to add a link and a photo. Then I think I have to crash!

You can learn more about our first stops here.  Machu Picchu is at the beginning of the trip!

Here is a picture of Skeeter waiting to go to bed for the night.

Well this seems to be working and I think I will be able to include you in all my exciting adventures.  Next stop Miami International

Machu Picchu and the Galapagos Islands

I am beginning this on Thursday, November 15, 2012 as I struggle to prepare for a trip very different from my usual one. This time I fly to Miami and then on to Lima, Peru and then on to Cuzco which is surely one of the highest cities in the world.  Perched atop the Andes Mountains at an elevation of 10,800 feet.  Yes that is double the height of Denver and then some.  They actually have oxygen bars there since the air is so rarefied. Our goal upon reaching this towering site is to spend two days in Machu Picchu which is the ancient Incan capital, and religious, and royal city.

I hope to be able to blog and to post and keep in touch since we will be staying in hotels and I think I will have internet.I don't have a 'bucket list' but if I did this would be on it!  When we leave the Andes we hang out on the equator and play with the tortoises and the Blue Footed Boobies in the islands.

The 17 day trip will feature nine (9) flights, six (6) hotels, and one (1) ship! Like I say, not my usual thing but I know I am a lucky person to have the freedom and ability to enjoy all the adventures on which I embark!

Preparing for Russia

Hello friends, I am back again.  As you know I don't blog if I have to pay for internet while traveling.  On river cruises the internet is free so you will soon be getting posts from Russia.  I have long wanted to visit Moscow.  As a child during the Cold War my Dad had a chance to work there for United Press International.  He was excited about the opportunity but when he found out he needed to arrange for folks back home to send tires for the car if he was able to get one, and oranges for 'the children' he decided it was maybe not the best choice.  Now-a-days I think the decision would have been different.  With the ease of international air travel and the value of Skype he might have gone on his own and kept in touch nightly or flown home frequently.  And of course, he like the rest of my family, did not like cold weather!  That alone might have been a deciding factor.  But he did like adventure and seeing new places and the extra money he would have brought home.

I now need to practice and see if I can work within the new parameters of the revised Blogger site. Let me practice by posting a picture of my dad. 

I don't have one of my dad on this computer and would scan one in but the photo albums are currently at my brother's home.  So this is my brother Doug and me and in truth when the opportunity for Moscow came up we would have been about 7 or 8 years older!  But thanks for feedback on this new trial post.

Downunder Coming Up

I hate evening flights!  Slept in a little late this Saturday morning but it is going to be a very long day.  Karen is picking me up for the airport at 3:00 this afternoon for my 6:00 flight to LAX.  There I have an hour and a half to change terminals and meet up with my friend Madeline for Air New Zealand's fifteen hour flight to Auckland!  Maybe it is even longer.  Can't do the math with the time and date changes, sorry.  Because of datelines we arrive at 8:00 am Monday morning!  Why do I do this to myself. 

I sort of wish that we had booked our own air.  Then we could have flown out a couple of days early to Los Angeles or even Hawaii and recovered from the first leg of the flight.  Of course our thirty nine day cruise would have been even longer.  But we would have had a chance to see my friends Carol and Michael and also to just get adjusted.

I will be adding to this blog as internet connections permit.  I will not pay for internet service on board a cruise ship as it is very expensive and extremely slow.  For 75 cents a minute you can't even send off one email.  So you can imagine what blogging would cost. 

The day we arrive we will be escorted to our ship.  I hope that goes quickly and smoothly as we would like the time to see a little of Auckland before beginning our voyage on the Celebrity Century. Of course we also need recovery time.  Our first all day tour begins early Tuesday morning to the geothermal fields outside of Tauranga, NZ.

If you are interested in seeing where I am you can use this link to follow our ship's position.  I must now go dry my hair, get into my travel clothes, turn off water and unplug things and finally make sure all my last minute things are in my suitcase jacket (more about that later.)  Enjoy!  See you all soon.

January 2012

Going to continue to 'blog' as Intentional Traveler.  I haven't found a way to create a 'new book' under this pseudonym so thing may blend together.  Last November Karen, Christine and her family and I all cruised on the Carnival Dream.  Didn't blog it but am going to try to get back in the swim of things starting now.  On this coming Wednesday Karen, Katie and I set out on one of our 'throw away' cruises.  Three nights on the Carnival Sensation out of Port Canaveral to Nassau.  We need some sun, sea, and sand.  More importantly our rum supplies are getting low.

Today is a momentous day to begin again as the Costa Concordia sank last night.  It looked like a beautiful ship and was one of the new mega ships.  I am sure discussion will continue about the safety common sense of having almost 5000 passengers and crew on one little floating vessel!